DEC  t  4  1M 

4.  .  4 

OG'lUAL 


TT  i60  . H23  1923 

Hall,  A.  Neely  b.  1883. 
Church  and  Sunday  school 
handicraft  for  boys 


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CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL 
HANDICRAFT  FOR  BOYS 


A.  NEELY  HALL 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2019  with  funding  from 
Princeton  Theological  Seminary  Library 


https://archive.org/details/churchsundayschoOOhall_0 


Fig.  301.  A  BULLETIN  BOARD  OF  DIGNIFIED  DESIGN  FOR  THE  CHURCH 

lawn.  (See  Chapter  XVII.) 

[Frontispiece 


CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY 
SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


FOR  BOYS 

Skill  through  Service 


.viVi  U 


7  '  cl ! 


ofcjj 


BY 

A.  NEELY  HALL 

Author  of  “Home  Handicraft  for  Boys,”  “ The  Boy  Crafts¬ 
man,”  “Home-made  Toys  for  Girls  and  Boys,”  “ Home¬ 
made  Games  and  Game  Equipment,”  “Handicraft  for 
Handy  Boys,”  “ Handicraft  for  Handy  Girls,” 

“The  Handy  Boy,”  “Carpentry  and  Me¬ 
chanics  for  Boys,”  etc . 


WITH  NEARLY  FOUR  HUNDRED 
PHOTOGRAPHS  AND  WORKING  DRAWINGS 
BY  THE  AUTHOR 


NEW 


YORK 


GEORGE  H.  DORAN  COMPANY 


Copyright ,  1923, 

By  George  H.  Doran  Company 


Church  and  Sunday  School  Handicraft  for  Boys.  II 


Printed  in  the  United  States  of  America 


To 

MOTHER 

WHO  GAVE  ME  MY  FIRST  LESSON 
IN  HANDICRAFT  AND  ASSISTED 
IN  MANY  BOYHOOD  ACTIVITIES 


TO  PARENTS  AND  CHURCH  LEADERS 


There  is  not  a  thing  in  this  book  which  your  boys 
cannot  make  and  not  a  piece  of  equipment  which 
your  church  or  Sunday  school  cannot  use.  The 
content,  therefore,  will  serve  two  purposes — teach¬ 
ing  the  boys  skill  and  training  them  in  practical 
ways  of  serving  the  church. 

No  better  place  than  the  home  can  be  found  to 
make  things,  and  the  lad  is  fortunate  who  has  the 
happy  combination  of  a  home  work-shop  and  a 
father  willing  to  work  alongside  him.  The  average 
boy  who  has  had  instruction  in  the  handling  of 
tools  at  school,  or  has  become  skillful  through  in¬ 
struction  in  handicraft  hooks,  can  generally  be 
relied  upon  to  turn  out  creditable  work.  Adult 
supervision  is  advised  for  untrained  boys.  A 
woodworker  may  be  found  willing  to  organize  a 
boys’  class  in  craftsmanship  to  meet  in  a  work¬ 
shop  in  the  church  basement  or  in  a  home. 

Another  plan  is  to  take  up  this  matter  of  making 
equipment  with  the  hoys’  manual-training  teacher. 
An  instructor  is  always  on  the  lookout  for  new 
class  problems,  and  under  his  guidance  groups  of 
boys  can  build  the  larger  pieces  of  equipment.  It 
may  be  necessary  to  assume  the  costs  of  material, 
but  that  can  be  arranged  easily. 

It  is  never  a  problem  to  obtain  volunteer  workers 
among  boys.  In  fact,  boys’  services  are  not  used 

vii 


viii  TO  PARENTS  AND  CHURCH  LEADERS 

in  the  community  as  much  as  they  might  be.  Lead¬ 
ers  too  often  underestimate  the  ability  of  boys. 
Give  them  a  trial.  Let  them  not  only  make  equip¬ 
ment,  but  do  odd  jobs  about  the  church  building. 
You  will  find  them  your  most  reliable  workers. 

A  Boy  Scout’s  motto  is  “Do  a  Good  Turn  Daily.” 
He  accepts  no  payment  for  good  turns,  which,  of 
course,  is  the  proper  spirit.  But  this  matter  of 
building  church  and  Sunday  school  equipment 
should  be  looked  upon  as  something  more  than  a 
good  turn.  Let  there  be  a  special  evening’s  pro¬ 
gram  to  include  the  presentation  of  work,  and  let 
there  be  a  metal'  plate  with  the  boy  craftman’s 
name  thereon  to  tack  to  each  article.  A  Boy 
Scout’s  year  is  incomplete  without  two  weeks  in 
camp,  and  I  assume  that  most  oi  the  boys  who 
volunteer  to  make  church  and  Sunday  school  equip¬ 
ment  will  be  Boy  Scouts  because  they  are  of  the 
type  of  boys  eager  to  serve.  The  church  budget 
permitting,  no  better  expression  of  appreciation  of 
the  boys’  services  could  be  found  than  an  appro¬ 
priation  for  the  summer  camp. 


TO  BOYS 


The  next  time  there  are  to  be  doings  at  the 
church,  and  you  hear  that  father  and  other  men  are 
to  meet  to  do  carpentry,  suppose  that  you  drop  in 
on  them,  watch  the  proceedings  and  figure  out  if 
there  is  any  part  of  the  work  which  you  and  other 
members  of  your  class  could  not  do  as  well.  Pos¬ 
sibly  there  is  no  better  workman  in  the  community 
than  your  father;  but  you  will  discover  men  who 
cannot  drive  home  a  nail,  much  less  saw  a  board 
straight,  men  who  didn’t  learn  to  work  with  tools 
as  you  have  learned.  Having  made  observations 
you  will  go  home  with  greater  confidence  in  your 
ability  to  do  things. 

Church  and  Sunday  school  carpentry  has  con¬ 
sisted  for  the  most  part  of  building  bazaar  booths, 
scenery  and  properties  for  plays,  a  Santa  Claus 
fireplace  for  the  Christmas  entertainment,  and 
other  temporary  construction  work,  and  repairs. 
But  there  is  much  working  equipment  that  can 
also  be  homemade.  This  volume  is  full  of  sugges¬ 
tions,  all  tried  and  found  good.  At  a  glance  you 
will  see  many  things  which  you  know  would  be 
helpful  in  your  Sunday  school.  You  and  the  boys 
of  your  class  and  other  classes  can  easily  build 
anything  shown  in  the  book.  Be  advised  as  to  the 
particular  needs  of  your  church  and  Sunday  school 
as  to  dimensions,  kind  of  wood,  and  finish  desired. 

ix 


X 


TO  BOYS 


Materials,  especially  for  the  larger  pieces  of  equip¬ 
ment,  will  probably  be  provided  for  you. 

This  work  will  necessitate  missing  a  ball  game 
now  and  then,  passing  up  a  good  moving-picture 
show,  or  radio  program,  and  it  will  delay  the  mak¬ 
ing  of  something  that  you  want  for  yourself,  but 
such  sacrifice  results  in  character  building,  and 
now  is  the  time  to  build.  You  will  feel  rewarded 
in  the  thought  that  you  are  doing  something  of  real 
worth  for  your  church  and  establishing  yourself 
as  one  of  its  essential  members.  Bear  in  mind, 
also,  that  whenever  you  make  something  well,  you 
become  more  skillful,  and  you  will  get  the  signifi¬ 
cance  of  the  subtitle  of  this  volume — skill  through 
service. 


Elmivurst,  Illinois . 


A.  N.  H. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I  THE  CHURCH  WORKSHOP  .  .  .  .  11 

A  Solid  Workbench — A  Vise — A  Bench- 
Stop — A  Box  Bench — A  Tool  Board — 

An  Odd- Job  Nail-Box 


II  TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  DAILY  VACA¬ 

TION  BIBLE  SCHOOL  ....  23 

Cork  Toys:  A  Horse — A  Porcupine — A  Pig 
— A  Pigrich  Bird — A  Duck — A  Teeter 
— A  Bed — A  Chair — A  Table — Pots  for 
Toy  Plants — A  J  avelin — Pendulum 

Toys :  The  Seasick  Landlubber — The 
Ouija  Bird — Tumble  Toys:  Tumble 
Tom’s  Trick  Ladder — Topsy  Turvy 
Blocks 

III  HANDICRAFT  FOR  THE  CHURCH  BA¬ 

ZAAR  . 46 

A  Whisk-Broom  Holder — Candle-Sticks — 

A  Thermometer  Board — A  Calendar- 
Board  and  Pen-Rack — A  Post-Card 
Rack — A  Clock-Shelf — A  Broom-Holder 
— A  Holder  for  Safety  Matches 

IV  THE  SAND  TABLE . 59 

The  Sand  Box — The  Sand-Box  Supports 
— Painting  the  Sand  Table — Materials 
for  Model  Making — Care  of  Properties 

xi 


xii  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER 

V  A  NOAH’S  ARK . 

Building  the  Ark — Cutting  and  Mounting 
the  Birds  and  Animals 

VI  MAKING  A  MODEL  OF  YOUR  CHURCH 

BUILDING . 

A  Model  of  the  New  Building — The  Model 
as  a  Bank  for  the  Building  Fund — A 
Model  of  the  Old  Building — A  Card¬ 
board  Model — A  Wooden  Model — A 
Clay  or  Plaster  Model 

YII  FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS  . 

A  Plant  Box — A  Hanging  Plant  Box — A 
Pedestal  Box — A  Trellis — A  Red-Cross 
Wren  House — Another  Wren  House — A 
Bluebird  Flouse — A  Woodpecker  House 
— A  Concrete  Bird  Bath — A  Pedestal 
Bird  Bath 

VIII  BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND 

CASES  . 

A  Book-Trough — Book-Ends — A  Wall-Rack 
— A  Rack  for  Dodgers,  Programs,  or 
Mail — A  Magazine-Rack — A  Thomas 
Bailey  Aldrich  Bookrack — Another  Form 
of  Bookrack — A  Bookcase  with  a  Cur¬ 
tained  Front 

IX  FILING-CASES  AND  CABINETS 

A  Letter-Size  Filing-Cabinet — A  Filing- 
Case — A  Cabinet  for  Pamphlets  and  Pic¬ 
tures 

X  SCRAPBOOKS . 

A  Home-Made  Scrapbook — Covers — Leaves 
— Punching — Lacing — Screw-Posts — Ar¬ 
ranging  Clippings — Indexing — An  En¬ 
velope  Scrap-File 


\ 


PAGE 

68 


76 


84 


105 


126 


136 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER 

XI  FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS  . 

A  Class  Table — A  Pedestal — A  Class  Gavel 
— A  Class  Screen — A  Chair  Hat-Rack 

XII  FRAMING  PICTURES  FOR  THE 

SCHOOL  ROOM . 

Passe  Partout  Pictures — A  Lath  Picture- 
Frame — An  Ornate  Frame 

XIII  BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND 

BASES  . 

A  Staff — A  Four-Wing  Base — A  Base 
with  a  Pipe-Fitting  Socket — A  Small 
Staff  and  B  ase  for  a  Table — A  Small 
Base  for  a  Pennant — A  Spool  Base — - 
Finishing  Staffs  and  Bases — Perfect  At¬ 
tendance  Awards — Banners  and  Pen¬ 
nants — A  Star  Banner — A  Concrete 
Base  for  a  Flag — A  Round  Concrete 
Base 

XIV  PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH  AND 

SUNDAY  SCHOOL . 

What  to  Print — Introduction  Tags — At¬ 
tendance  Booster  Tags — Absent  Mem¬ 
ber  Reminders — Novel  Invitations  to 
Socials — A  Church  or  Sunday  School 
Paper  or  Bulletin 

XV  ATTENDANCE  THERMOMETERS  AND 

DIALS  . 

New  Member  Contests — How  to  Make  an 
Attendance  Thermometer — A  Two-Tube 
Contest  Thermometer — An  Attendance 

Dial 

XVI  BANKS  AND  CONTRIBUTION  BOXES  . 

A  Mite  Box — A  Contribution  Box — A 
Large  Contribution  Box 


Xlll 

PAGE 

112 


157 


166 


182 


194 


203 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


xiv 

CHAPTER 

XYII  BULLETIN  BOARDS  ....  212 

A  Bulletin  Board  on  Posts — A  Portable 
Bulletin  Board — An  Indoor  Bulletin 
Board — A  Bulletin  Board  with  a  Glass 
Front 

XVIII  BLACKBOARDS  AND  AN  EASEL  .  224 

A  Wallboard  and  Lath  Blackboard — A 
Blackboard  and  Bulletin  Board — An 
Easel  for  Blackboards  and  Maps 

XIX  FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM  ....  230 

A  Coat-and-Hat-Rack  for  a  Wall — A  Port¬ 
able  Rack — A  Whisk-Broom  Holder — A 
Shoe-Polishing  Case — A  Waste-Basket 

XX  BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS  .  .  244 

A  Fancy  work  Booth — A  Pergola  Booth — 

A  Flower  Booth — An  Ice-Cream  Booth 
— An  Old-Well  Grab-Booth — Knock- 
Down  Booths — A  Handicraft  Booth 

XXI  A  SANTA  CLAUS  FIREPLACE  AND  A 

TREE  BASE . 258 

A  Fireplace  and  Mantel — A  Realistic  Fire 
Effect — A  Cross  Standard  for  a  Christ¬ 
mas  Tree — A  Box  Standard 


INDEX 


269 


LIST  OF  HALFTONE  ILLUSTRATIONS 

(in  addition  to  363  text  illustrations) 


Fig.  301. 


Fig.  35. 

Fig.  36. 

Fig.  59. 

Fig.  60. 
Fig.  61. 
Fig.  89. 

Fig.  90. 
Fig.  103. 

Fig.  104. 
Fig.  180. 
Fig.  183. 
Fig.  236. 

Fig.  263. 


A  Bulletin  Board  of  Dignified  Design  for 
the  Church  Lawn  (see  Chapter  XVII) 

Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

This  Seasick  Landlubber  Toy  Is  Oper¬ 
ated  by  a  Pendulum  ....  32 

The  Man,  Boat  and  Waves  Are  Easily 
Whittled  Out . 32 

A  Whisk-Broom  Holder  Decorated  with 
a  Pasted  Picture . 46 

A  Candle-stick . 46 

A  Thermometer  Board  ....  46 

A  Sand  Table  Model  Illustrating  the 
Story  of  Noah’s  Ark  ....  66 

This  Noah’s  Ark  Model  Is  Easy  to  Build  66 

A  Wooden  Model  of  a  Church  Building 
Made  by  Earl  Hemmerly  ...  .  80 

Another  Model  Built  by  the  Same  Lad  80 

A  Bookcase  with  a  Curtained  Front  .  122 

A  Letter-Size  Filing-Cabinet  .  .  .  126 

An  Ornate  Frame  That  Is  Easy  to 
Make . 162 

Printing  for  the  Church  and  Sunday 
School  That  Can  Be  Done  on  a  Small 
Press 


xv 


188 


LIST  OF  HALFTONE  ILLUSTRATIONS 


Fig.  307. 
Fig.  356. 
Fig.  357. 
Fig.  358. 
Fig.  359. 
Fig.  360. 
Fig.  366. 


FACING 

A  Portable  Bulletin  Board 
A  Fancywork  Booth  .... 

A  Pergola  Booth  ..... 

A  Flower  Booth . 

An  Ice-cream  Booth  .... 

An  Old-Well  Grab-Booth 

A  “Knock-Down”  Booth  Like  This  Can 
Be  Preserved  from  Year  to  Year 


PAGE 

216 

24d 

244 

244 

244 

244 

252 


CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL 
HANDICRAFT  FOR  BOYS 


CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL 
HANDICRAFT  FOR  BOYS 


♦ 


Chapter  I 

THE  CHURCH  WORKSHOP 

A  Solid  Workbench — A  Vise — A  Bench-Stop — A  Box  Bench— 
A  Tool  Board — An  Odd- Job  Nail-Box. 

The  maintenance  of  building  equipment,  the  con¬ 
struction  of  bazaar  booths,  scenery  and  properties 
for  plays  and  other  entertainments  require  the  use 
of  tools,  and  are  reason  enough  for  a  basement  work¬ 
shop  if  the  shop  is  nothing  more  than  a  corner  large 
enough  to  accommodate  a  bench  and  afford  working 
space.  Few  church  basements  are  so  equipped,  be¬ 
cause  the  busiest  men  of  the  community  are  usually 
the  hardest  workers  in  the  church,  and  have  enough 
demands  on  their  time  without  casting  about  for 
something  to  do. 

You  can  appreciate  the  need  of  a  bench  in  the 

church  building  if  you  have  a  home  workbench.  You 

know  how  much  better  you  can  plane  a  board  held 

in  a  bench  vise  than  one  held  by  hand,  and  how  much 

better  you  can  perform  all  tool  operations  on  a  solid 

bench  than  on  a  rickety  table,  box  or  chair.  If  you 

11 


12  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


haven't  a  home  bench,  yon  had  better  make  one  like 
that  shown  in  this  chapter,  or  like  one  of  the  benches 
described  in  “Home  Handicraft  for  Boys"  or  my 
other  handicraft  books.  Then,  suppose  you  build  a 
second  bench  for  your  first  handicraft  contribution 
to  the  church.  Possibly  the  janitor  is  ruler  of  the 
basement  domain,  in  which  case  it  would  be  well  to 
consult  him  before  installing  the  bench. 

A  SOLID  WORKBENCH 

There  isn't  much  work  to  the  construction  of  a 
bench  like  that  shown  in  Figure  1,  and  it  can  be  built 
quickly.  Figure  2  shows  the  completed  framework. 

The  Legs  A  are  2-by-4s  28  inches  long.  Top  plates 
B  are  2-by-4s,  and  end  cross-rails  C  are  l-by-4s,  each 
29  inches  long.  Side  cross-rails  E  are  l-by-4s  5  feet 
long,  and  diagonal  braces  D  and  F  are  l-by-4s. 
After  cutting  the  pieces,  build  the  pair  of  end 
frames,  spiking  plates  B  to  the  ends  of  legs  A,  and 
nailing  rail  C  and  braces  D  to  the  legs  as  shown  in 
Figure  2.  When  these  frames  have  been  assembled, 
connect  them  with  rails  E  and  diagonal  braces  F. 
Test  the  corners  of  the  frames  with  a  square,  before 
nailing  the  diagonals  in  place,  to  make  sure  that  they 
are  right  angles. 

The  Bench  Top  requires  three  pieces  of  2-by-10- 
inch  stuff  6  feet  long.  Set  the  first  and  third  planks 
even  with  the  ends  of  plates  B,  and  project  all  of  the 
ends  6  inches  over  the  end  frames.  Spike  the  planks 
to  the  framework,  and  drive  the  heads  well  below  the 
surface.  Next,  nail  the  apron  G  (Fig.  3)  to  the 


THE  CHURCH  WORKSHOP 


13 


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Si-J '  111  1PTj 

if 

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W 

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l 

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l^J 

Fig.  I.  THERE  isn’t  much  work  to  making  a  bench  like  this 


14  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Fig.  6 


Fig.  5 

FlG.  2.  THE  COMPLETED  FRAMEWORK  OF  THE  WORK-BENCH 

Figs.  3-5.  details  of  the  bench-vise 
Fig.  6.  a  bench-stop 


THE  CHURCH  WORKSHOP 


15 


front  of  the  bench.  Cut  this  out  of  a  l-by-10-inch 
board.  Trim  off  the  ends  as  indicated. 

The  Bench-vise  requires  an  iron  bench-screw  (Fig. 
4).  This  will  cost  about  75  cents  at  a  hardware 
store.  Cut  the  vise  jaw  H  (Fig.  5)  out  of  a  piece  of 
2-by-6  20  inches  long,  bore  a  hole  through  the  center 
of  one  face  6  inches  below  the  top  to  receive  the 
bench-screw,  bevel  off  the  top  as  shown,  and  notch 
the  lower  end  for  sliding-strip  I,  which  is  1  by  3  by 
14  inches  in  size. 

The  bench  screw  runs  through  a  hole  in  the  bench- 
apron  and  leg,  and  screws  into  the  threaded  socket 
(L,  Fig.  3)  provided  with  it.  The  socket  must  be 
set  into  the  inner  face  of  the  bench  leg  and  be  fas¬ 
tened  with  screws. 

Sliding-strip  I  (Fig.  5)  is  a  guide  for  the  vise-jaw. 
When  you  place  work  in  the  vise,  and  adjust  the  peg 
in  the  right  hole,  the  strip  keeps  the  lower  end  of  the 
jaw  from  pushing  in  too  far.  Make  a  pocket  with 
blocks  J  and  strip  K,  as  shown  in  Figure  3,  for  the 
sliding-strip  to  slide  in,  and  use  a  wooden  peg  or 
iron  bolt  for  the  peg  M  (Fig.  5). 

A  Bench-stop.  Cut  a  block  of  wood  4  by  6  inches 
in  size,  make  a  Y-shaped  cut  in  one  end  (Fig.  6),  and 
screw  it  to  the  left  end  of  the  bench  top  to  shove 
work  against. 


A  BOX  BENCH 

For  odd  jobs  in  the  church  building,  a  small  bench 
like  that  shown  in  Figure  7  will  save  the  wear  and 
tear  on  chairs  and  tables  which  generally  result  from 


16  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

their  use  as  saw-horses  and  benches.  Being  light  in 
weight,  it  can  easily  be  carried  from  room  to  room. 
And  the  compartments  inside  the  box  will  accom¬ 
modate  a  few  tools  and  a  nail-box. 


Fig.  7.  box  bench  for  odd  jobs  and  coping-saw  problems 


This  type  of  work-bench  is  also  a  good  individual 
bench  for  use  in  Daily  Vacation  Bible  Schools,  for 
coping-saw  problems.  As  it  is  easily  made  of  inex¬ 
pensive  materials,  a  number  of  them  might  be  pro¬ 
vided  for  class  work. 

Use  a  Packing  Box  that  is  strongly  made  of  good 


THE  CHURCH  WORKSHOP 


17 


material  and  if  any  of  the  boards  show  signs  of 
loosening,  reenforce  the  nailing.  Also,  procure  four 
%  inch  by  3  inch  strips  for  legs,  and  several  addi¬ 
tional  strips  for  compartment  partitions.  The  ordi¬ 
nary  height  of  a  work-bench  is  32  inches,  but  this 


Fig.  8.  this  is  the  way  to  use  the  coping-saw  on  the 

BOX  EENCH 

can  be  regulated  to  suit  one’s  height.  If  the  bench 
is  to  be  used  for  coping-saw  work,  it  can  be  of  table 
height,  and  the  boy  working  at  it  can  sit  on  a  box 
.stool,  as  suggested  in  Figure  8.  Saw  a  Y-shaped 
notch  in  the  front  edge  of  the  top  (Fig.  7)  for  the 
coping-saw  to  work  in.  The  piece  to  be  sawed  can  be 
placed  over  the  notch,  and  will  be  supported  on  both 
sides  of  the  saw.  Fasten  a  board  across  the  front  qf 
the  box,  and  partition  the  inside  into  compartments 
as  shown. 


18  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  TOOL  BOARD 


The  board  in  Figure  9  will  accommodate  a  small 
tool  outfit  such  as  should  be  on  hand  in  a  church 
building  for  odd  jobs.  The  outfit  suggested  consists 
of  a  cross-cut  saw,  hatchet,  hammer,  bit-brace  and 


Fig.  9.  A  TOOL-BOARD 


two  sizes  of  bits,  hand  gimlet,  chisel,  screw-driver, 
file,  pliers,  try-square,  coping-saw  and  keyhole-saw. 
In  addition  to  these  tools  there  should  be  a  plane, 
but  this  should  be  kept  upon  a  shelf  as  it  is  a  tool 
that  cannot  be  hung  up  very  well.  If  every  tool  is 
kept  in  its  place,  the  board  will  be  found  convenient. 
Occasionally  a  tool  will  be  missing  or  hung  on  the 
wrong  hooks.  A  good  plan  is  to  draw  an  outline  of 
each  tool  upon  the  board,  as  suggested  by  dotted 


THE  CHURCH  WORKSHOP 


19 


lines  in  Fignre  9,  then  a  person  can  see  at  a  glance 
what  tool  is  missing,  and  borrowers  can  see  where  to 
hang  tools  when  they  return  them. 

The  Size  of  the  Board  will  depend  on  the  number 
of  tools  to  be  provided  for  and  their  lengths.  The 
best  way  to  arrive  at  the  dimensions  is  to  take  all 
of  the  tools  and  arrange  them  upon  a  table  in  some 
such  way  as  the  diagram  of  Figure  9  suggests.  By 
careful  planning  you  will  see  how  the  tools  can  be 
fitted  close  together  so  little  space  is  lost. 


Fig.  IO.  DETAIL  OF  TOOL-BOARD 


Build  Up  the  Tool-board  of  boards  A,  as  shown  in 
Figure  10,  fastening  these  together  with  end  battens 
B.  The  number  of  boards  to  use  will  depend  on  the 
width  of  the  tool  layout,  and  upon  the  width  of  the 
boards  you  can  get.  If  you  use  boards  %  inch  thick, 
battens  B  can  be  nailed  to  the  board  ends,  but  if  you 
use  box  boards  %  or  %  inch  thick,  the  battens  should 
be  fastened  to  the  back  of  the  boards  and  the  nails 
driven  through  the  battens  and  the  boards  and 
clinched. 

Hangers.  Screw-hooks,  or  nails  with  large  heads, 
should  be  used  for  hangers  for  the  tools  (Fig.  10). 
Long,  slim  tools  like  wood-bits  cannot  be  supported 
in  a  vertical  position  as  easily  as  tools  with  handles. 


20  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


You  can  provide  screw-eyes  or  staples  to  support  the 
upper  part  of  these  and  a  block  to  support  the  lower 
ends  (Fig.  9). 


AN  ODD-JOB  NAIL-BOX 


Tacks,  brads,  nails,  screws,  screw-eyes,  picture- 
hooks,  and  other  small  hardware  would  often  bring  a 
premium  if  they  could  be  produced  at  the  psychologi- 


FlG.  II.  A  HANDY  NAIL-BOX 


cal  moment  when  a  committee  is  on  hand  to  decorate 
the  church  or  Sunday  school  room.  Some  one  al¬ 
ways  knows  that  the  desired  tacks  or  nails  are  some¬ 
where  but  somewhere  is  too  indefinite.  The  odd- job 
nail-box  shown  in  Figure  11  will  be  easier  to  find 
than  a  box  of  4-oz.  upholstering  tacks.  Its  fourteen 
compartments  will  take  care  of  most  of  the  sizes  of 
small  hardware  used  for  odd  jobs. 

The  Parts.  Box  boards  %  inch  thick  can  be  used 
for  the  box.  A  pattern  for  the  bottom  is  given  in 
Figure  12,  a  pattern  for  the  sides  in  Figure  13,  and 
a  pattern  for  the  ends  in  Figure  14.  The  double 


THE  CHURCH  WORKSHOP 


21 


lines  on  the  patterns  of  the  bottom  and  side  pieces 
indicate  saw  slots  made  to  receive  the  edges  of  the 
partitions.  Locate  the  slots  in  the  places  indicated 
and  cut  them  Vs  inch  deep. 


Fig.  13 


Fig.  15 


Fig.  14 


Figs.  12-15.  patterns  for  the  nail-box 


In  Assembling  the  Box ,  nail  together  the  side  and 
end  pieces  first,  then  nail  the  bottom  board  to  their 
edges. 

The  Compartment  Partitions  are  of  tin.  Cut  them 
out  of  tin  cans,  with  tinsnips,  or  an  old  pair  of 
shears.  Figure  15  is  a  pattern  for  these  pieces. 


22  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

Slip  the  partitions  into  the  slots  cut  for  them,  and 
fasten  them  in  place  with  a  center  strip  of  wood  wide 
enough  to  lap  half  an  inch  over  their  inside  ends. 
To  this  center  strip  screw  a  drawer-pull  or  window 
sash-lift  at  the  center  of  its  length  for  a  handle  to 
carry  the  box  by. 

Finish  the  Box  with  a  coat  of  shellac,  paint,  or 
wood-stain. 


Chapter  II 

TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE 
DAILY  VACATION  BIBLE  SCHOOL 

Cork  Toys:  A  Horse — A  Porcupine — A  Pig — A  Pigrich  Bird — 
A  Duck — A  Teeter — A  Bed — A  Chair — A  Table — Pots  for 
Toy  Plants — A  Javelin. 

Pendulum  Toys:  The  Seasick  Landlubber — The  Ouija  Bird. 
Tumble  Toys :  Tumble  Tom’s  Trick  Ladder — Topsy  Turvy  Blocks. 

You  boys  may  think  some  of  the  ideas  presented 
in  this  chapter  too  elementary  in  character  for  a 
boy’s  book  of  handicraft  but  bear  in  mind  that  this 
is  first  of  all  a  book  of  service.  Maybe  your  younger 
brother  or  sister  will  want  to  make  some  of  the  sim¬ 
pler  things  in  the  Daily  Vacation  Bible  School,  and 
you  can  lend  such  assistance  as  is  needed.  In  fact, 
if  you  are  beyond  the  age  for  attending  the  Daily 
Vacation  Bible  School,  you  might  render  valuable 
assistance  to  the  school  leaders  by  helping  with  the 
handicraft  instruction. 

There  is  a  growing  feeling  among  teachers  of  the 
Daily  Vacation  Bible  Schools  that  the  handicraft 
activities  of  the  boy  and  girl  pupils  should  not  be 
confined  to  toys  and  other  things  made  solely  for 
play,  because  the  real  purpose  of  the  work  is  lost 
sight  of,  and  the  child  looks  upon  the  program  as 
only  a  means  to  add  to  his  possessions.  It  is  true 

23 


24  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


that  there  is  danger  of  encouraging  selfishness  by 
making  too  much  of  the  ‘ ‘ make  your  own  toy”  idea. 
It  is  better  to  include  material  that  will  be  of  service 
to  others — mother,  father,  the  church,  Sunday  school, 
and  the  community.  In  following  chapters  and  in 


Fig.  18 

Figs.  16-18.  the  horse 


1  ‘ Home  Mechanics  for  Boys,”  much  material  will  be 
found  for  a  varied  program — large  articles  for 
groups  to  make,  small  articles  for  individuals.  But 
toy-making  should  not  be  eliminated  from  the  pro¬ 
gram.  Handled  in  a  proper  manner,  there  need  be 
no  cause  for  criticism.  The  work  can  be  done  in  a 
wholly  unselfish  spirit.  The  toys  need  not  be  re¬ 
tained  by  the  makers,  but  may  be  given  to  missions, 
sold  at  the  close  of  the  vacation  school  and  the  re- 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  25 

ceipts  given  to  charity,  sold  at  the  toy  or  handicraft 
booth  at  the  holiday  bazaar  of  the  churches  the  chil¬ 
dren  attend,  or  given  to  poor  children  at  Christmas 


Fig.  19.  THE  PORCUPINE 


time.  And  will  it  not  be  a  more  unselfish  act  for  the 
child  to  give  away  the  toy  that  he  has  made,  and  in 
which  he  sees  possibilities  of  fun,  than  some  other 
piece  of  handicraft  designed  for  grown  folks  to  use! 


Fig.  20.  PATTERN  FOR  THE  HEAD  OF  THE  PORCUPINE 

CORK  TOYS 

This  line  of  toys  has  always  appealed  to  me  as 
among  the  most  fascinating  to  make,  and  they  inter¬ 
est  young  and  old  alike.  When  I  was  a  lad,  my 
brother  and  I  made  a  whole  menagerie  of  cork  ani¬ 
mals  for  the  church  bazaars  of  two  successive  years, 


26  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


and  they  sold  like  hot  cakes;  everybody  wanted  to 
take  home  as  a  souvenir  one  of  the  curiously  formed 
creatures  with  gilded  bodies.  About  this  time,  too, 
I  told  how  to  make  these  animals  and  other  cork 
objects  in  my  first  handicraft  article  “Cork  Toys,” 
published  in  “The  Chicago  Record.”  Since  then  I 
have  explained  the  work  in  books  and  in  magazine 
articles,  so  perhaps  your  parents  have  made  the  toys, 
perhaps  you  have  made  them  in  a  vacation  school 


Fig.  21.  THE  PIG 


where  these  books  and  articles  have  been  used.  But 
new  ideas  included  among  the  following  suggestions 
will  be  worthy  of  notice. 

CORKS  AND  OTHER  WORKING  MATERIALS 

Corks  for  toy  making  may  be  saved  from  emptied 
bottles,  but  this  source  of  supply  need  not  be  de¬ 
pended  upon  entirely,  for  corks  can  be  bought  inex¬ 
pensively  at  drugstores  and  ten-cent  stores.  In  ad¬ 
dition  to  corks,  there  must  be  some  cardboard  (box 
cardboard  will  do),  yarn,  beads,  toothpicks,  burnt 
matches,  pins  and  glue.  For  cutting  the  corks  use  a 
sharp  knife  or  a  coping-saw. 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  27 


COKK  ANIMALS 

The  Horse  (Fig.  16)  has  a  body  made  of  two  tap¬ 
ered  corks,  with  the  small  ends  glued  together.  Use 
the  pattern  in  Figure  17  for  the  head,  and  glue  this 


FlG.  22.  THE  PIGRICH  BIRD 

FlG.  23.  PATTERN  FOR  HEAD  FOR  THE  PIGRICH  BIRD  AND  THE  PIG 


in  a  slot  cut  across  the  end  of  the  body.  The  legs 
may  be  toothpicks  or  matches ;  glue  them  in  holes  in 
the  cork  body.  The  tail  is  made  of  several  strands 
of  yarn  tied  to  a  pin  (Fig.  18),  and  the  pin  is  stuck 
into  the  body. 


28  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


The  Funny  Porcupine  (Fig.  19)  has  a  tapered 
cork  body,  toothpick  legs,  a  cardboard  head  (Fig. 
20)  and  toothpick  quills. 

The  Pig  (Fig.  21)  may  he  made  in  the  same  way, 
omitting  the  quills,  making  a  head  like  the  pattern 
(Fig.  23)  and  using  a  piece  of  wire  for  a  tail. 


Fig.  27 

Figs.  24-27.  the  duck 


Because  cork  birds  and  animals  are  funny  crea¬ 
tures  at  best,  it  is  proper  to  devise  varieties  other 
than  those  found  in  zoos.  With  a  little  thought  all 
sorts  of  specimens  can  be  produced. 

The  Pig  rich  Bird  (Fig.  22)  is  a  peculiar  specimen. 
Isn’t  he  a  dandy  with  his  ornamented  neck?  Five 
glass  beads  strung  upon  a  toothpick  form  the  neck, 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  29 


the  cardboard  head  (Fig.  23)  sticks  upon  the  tooth¬ 
pick  neck,  and  the  toothpick  legs  have  beads  glued 
upon  their  ends. 


The  Duck  (Fig.  24)  is  one  of  the  many  floating 
toys  which  can  be  made.  Figure  25  shows  the  head 
and  neck,  Figure  26  the  tail,  and  Figure  27  the  keel 


fastened  to  the  under  side  of  the  body  to  prevent  up¬ 
setting.  The  keel  should  be  a  piece  of  cardboard 
coated  with  paraffin  or  a  piece  of  tin. 

The  Teeter.  Figure  28  shows  a  teeter  for  a  cork 
animal  circus.  The  strip  of  cardboard  used  for  the 


30  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


teeter  is  bent  down  at  the  edges  and  pinned  to  the 
ends  of  a  straight  cork.  Holes  may  be  punched  for 
the  animals 9  legs  to  stick  in. 


CORK  FURNITURE 

Enough  cork  furniture  can  be  devised  to  furnish  a 
doll’s  house. 


Figs.  30  and  31.  a  chair 


A  Bed .  Figure  29  shows  a  bed.  This  has  a  card¬ 
board  mattress,  cork  feet,  and  a  pillow  made  of  two 
tapered  corks. 

A  Chair.  You  will  not  deny  that  the  chair  in 
Figure  30  has  style.  The  seat  is  a  pickle  bottle  cork ; 
the  legs  and  back  are  made  of  long  pins  wound  with 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  31 


yarn.  Figure  31  shows  how  to  weave  the  yarn 
around  the  pins  of  the  chair-back. 


Fig.  32.  A  TABLE 

The  Table  in  Figure  32  has  a  pickle  bottle  cork 
top,  with  pins  stuck  around  its  edge.  Upon  the  pins 


Fig.  33.  a  pot  for  a  toy  plant 

yarn  is  woven  in  the  same  manner  as  the  chair-back. 
The  legs  are  pins  with  glass  beads  slipped  onto  them 
and  pushed  down  to  the  heads,  and  they  are  wound 
with  yarn. 


32  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Pots  for  Toy  Plants.  Tapered  corks  make  excel¬ 
lent  pots  for  a  doll-house  (Fig.  33),  and  the  plants 
can  be  made  of  paper,  or  pieces  of  artificial  fern 
may  be  used. 


A  COKK  JAVELIN 

If  yon  have  never  made  a  cork  javelin  to  toss  at  a 
target,  you  have  missed  a  lot  of  fun.  Figure  34 


Fig.  34.  a  javelin 

shows  how  to  make  one  by  inserting  a  needle  in  the 
bottom  of  a  tapered  cork,  and  a  feather  in  the  top. 

PENDULUM  TOYS 

The  Seaside  Landlubber  Toy.  This  mechanical 
toy,  shown  in  the  photographs  of  Figures  35  and  36, 
is  adapted  from  a  pen-tray  designed  and  made  dur- 


Fig.  36.  THE  MAN,  BOAT  AND  WAVES  ARE  EASILY  WHITTLED  OUT 


Fig.  35.  THIS  SEASICK  LANDLUBBER  TOY  IS  OPERATED 


BY  A  PENDULUM 


[Facing  page  32 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  33 

ing  the  war  by  a  disabled  soldier  of  the  Lord  Roberts 
Memorial  Workshops,  London,  England.  The  origi¬ 
nal,  in  my  possession,  is  one  of  the  most  comical 
models  I  have  seen  and  I  believe  that  this  mechanical 


Figs.  37  and  38.  details  of  wave  strips 
Fig.  39.  the  landlubber’s  boat 
Fig.  40.  PENDULUM  FOR  ROCKING  the  boat 


adaptation,  shown  in  the  illustrations,  will  prove  a 
most  interesting  toy  to  you  boys.  Place  it  on  a  man¬ 
tel  shelf,  on  a  bookcase,  or  on  a  bracket  fastened  to  a 
wall,  so  the  pendulum  and  suspending  cord  swing 
free  and  clear,  and  it  will  become  a  permanent  source 
of  fun,  a  novelty  each  visitor  to  your  home  will  en¬ 
joy. 


34  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


This  might  he  called  a  jack-knife  model,  because 
practically  all  of  its  parts  can  be  whittled. 

The  Waves  are  made  of  two  strips  cut  from  a  box 
board  %  inch  thick.  Figure  37  shows  one  strip  (A) 
and  Figure  38  the  other  (C),  with  dimensions  for 
laying  them  out.  Scallop  the  tops  as  shown,  to  form 
waves. 

The  Rowboat  is  also  a  piece  of  box  board.  Lay  it 
out  by  the  pattern  of  Figure  39.  Notice  that  the 
upper  edge  of  this  block  curves  slightly  between  bow 
and  stern.  Pivot  the  boat  between  the  wave  strips 
on  a  screw  driven  through  strip  A,  slipped  through 
a  hole  in  the  hull  a  trifle  larger  than  the  screw,  ana 
driven  part  way  into  strip  C.  Spool  halves  D  (Fig. 
37)  are  separators  fastened  between  the  ends  of  the 
wave  strips.  Place  iron  washers  on  the  screw  pivot 
each  side  of  the  boat.  Nail  strip  A  to  base  block  B, 
a  block  5  inches  wide  by  the  length  of  the  strip. 

The  Pendulum  is  a  piece  of  broom-handle  8  inches 
long  with  a  screw-eye  screwed  into  one  end  (F,  Fig. 
40).  Use  heavy  cord  for  the  suspension  cords.  Dou¬ 
ble  a  piece  54  inches  long,  loop  it  through  the  screw- 
eye  in  the  end  of  the  pendulum,  and  tie  the  end  to  a 
pair  of  screw-eyes  of  the  size  used  on  the  back  of 
small  picture  frames,  screwed  into  the  hull  of  the 
boat  at  points  G  (Fig.  39).  Join  the  cords  6  inches 
below  the  boat  hull  as  shown  in  the  photograph  of 
Figure  35. 

The  Landlubber  has  a  shoulder  block  (H,  Fig.  41), 
head  (I),  spiral-spring  neck  (J,  Fig.  42),  and  arms 
and  hands  (K,  Fig.  43).  Cut  shoulder  block  H  by 
the  pattern  in  Figure  41.  Tack  it  to  the  center  of  the 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  35 


back  of  the  boat  so  it  appears  above  the  boat  as 
shown  in  the  photograph. 

His  Head .  Cut  a  block  of  soft  pine  l3/4  inches 
square  for  the  head  block  (Fig.  44).  With  your  knife 
cut  off  the  corners  as  shown  in  Figure  45,  then 
continue  cutting  until  the  corners  are  rounded  and 
the  block  becomes  spherical.  When  you  are  satisfied 


Fig.  42  Fig.  41 

FlG.  41.  DETAIL  OF  HEAD  AND  SHOULDER 
Fig.  42.  SPRING  FOR  NECK 
Fig.  43.  hand 

that  you  have  a  perfect  sphere,  rub  up  the  surface 
with  sandpaper  until  smooth.  Figure  46  shows  the 
completed  head.  Suggestions  for  painting  will  be 
given  later. 

His  Neck  is  a  spiral  spring  1 %  inches  long.  Get 
a  piece  of  spring  brass  wire  of  fine  gauge,  and  wind 
it  about  a  ten-penny  common  nail,  pushing  the  turns 
close  together,  until  the  coil  of  the  desired  length  has 
been  obtained  (Fig.  42).  If  you  cannot  get  spring 
brass  wire  at  your  hardware  store,  buy  one  of  the 


36  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


spiral  brass  curtain-rods  that  sell  for  5  cents  at  the 
five-and-ten-cent  stores,  and  cut  a  piece  off  one  end. 
A  section  of  one  of  these  springs  was  used  in  the 
model  illustrated.  Drill  a  hole  %  inch  deep  in  the 
head,  to  receive  the  spiral  spring.  Attach  the  other 
end  of  the  spring  to  shoulder  block  H  with  small 
staples,  as  shown  in  Figure  41.  Cut  a  notch  in  the 
edge  of  the  block,  as  shown,  for  the  spiral  to  rest 
in. 


Figs.  44-46.  how  to  whittle  the  head  out  of  a  block  of  wood 


His  Hcmds  should  be  cut  by  the  pattern  in  Figure 
43.  Fasten  them  to  the  side  of  the  boat  with  glue 
and  short  brads. 

You  have  been  told  how  to  assemble  each  part  as 
prepared.  But  the  assembling  should  only  be  done 
for  the  purpose  of  seeing  that  parts  fit  properly,  for 
all  parts  must  be  separated  for  painting. 

Finishing .  Several  colors  should  be  used  for  fin¬ 
ishing.  Enamel  paints  are  best,  and  these  can  be 
purchased  in  quarter-pint  cans.  Two  coats  will  be 
necessary  to  cover  perfectly.  The  waves  should  be 
a  light  blue  with  the  crests  indicated  in  white.  The 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  37 

boat  should  be  white,  striped  with  black  to  indicate 
seams.  A  band  of  red  should  be  added  to  the  upper 
edge.  The  seasick  landlubber’s  head  should  be  gray¬ 
ish  white,  made  by  mixing  a  bit  of  black  in  white 
paint.  Features  and  hair  should  be  indicated  with 


Fig.  47.  THE  OUIJA  BIRD  roosts  well  upon  a  mantel  shelf 

black  paint.  Follow  the  diagram  in  Figure  46  in 
marking  the  features.  The  base  block  (B)  should  be 
painted  blue,  the  pendulum  (F)  red.  Allow  surfaces 
to  dry  twenty-four  hours  before  assembling  parts, 
so  the  paint  will  be  perfectly  dry. 

When  the  seasick  landlubber  model  is  completed, 
you  may  find  adjustment  of  the  neck  necessary  to 


38  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

give  tlie  head  a  realistic  poise.  If  yon  have  been  on 
a  rough  sea  you  may  know  all  about  it. 

The  Ouija  Bird  roosts  well  upon  a  mantel  shelf  or 
plate-rail,  where  its  pendulum  is  free  to  swing  (Fig. 
47).  Note  that  the  pendulum  causes  the  head  and 
tail  to  move.  You  do  not  have  to  be  an  artist  to  make 


n 


Fig.  48.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  the  toy 


the  bird.  You  can  cut  it  of  any  shape  or  size  you 
want.  In  the  detail  drawing  (Fig.  49),  A  shows  the 
body,  B  the  head  and  neck,  and  C  the  tail.  The  neck 
and  tail  are  pivoted  to  the  back  of  the  body  with 
tacks,  at  the  points  G,  and  strings  I  are  attached  to 
tacks  driven  at  points  H,  and  are  tied  to  a  screw-eye 
in  the  end  of  a  piece  of  broom-handle  J  (Fig.  50) 
which  forms  the  pendulum. 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  39 


The  Toy  Is  Mounted  upon  a  board  base  D  (Figs. 
48  and  49),  by  means  of  a  round  stick  E,  one  end  of 
which  is  glued  in  a  hole  bored  in  base  D,  and  the 


Fig.  49 

Fig.  49.  details  of  ouija  bird  pendulum  toy 
Fig.  50.  broom-handle  pendulum 


other  in  a  block  F,  which  block  is  fastened  to  the 
back  of  the  body. 

Paint  the  Parts  before  assembling  them.  Here 
you  will  have  opportunity  to  execute  something  un¬ 
usual  in  plumage. 


Fig.  si.  tumble  tom  and  his  trick  ladder 
Fig.  52.  PATTERN  FOR  LADDER 
Fig.  53.  PATTERN  FOR  TUMBLE  TOM 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  41 


TUMBLE  TOYS 

A  hammer  and  a  pair  of  scissors  are  the  only  tools 
required  to  make  these  tumble  toys,  and  the  material 
can  he  found  in  every  household. 

Tumble  Tom’s  Trick  Ladder  (Fig.  51)  is  made  of 
a  stick  3  inches  wide  and  a  trifle  longer  than  23  inches 
(Fig.  52).  If  you  find  a  piece  of  wood  wider  and 
longer  than  these  dimensions,  it  will  not  be  necessary 
to  cut  it  down.  The  rails  and  rungs  of  the  ladder 
can  be  drawn  with  the  spacing  indicated  on  the  dia¬ 
gram  of  Figure  52,  and  whatever  additional  width 
and  length  remain  can  be  left  as  margins.  Use  a 
ruler  and  pencil  to  mark  off  the  ladder.  First,  draw 
the  side  rails,  then  along  them  lay  off  the  spacing  for 
the  rungs  and  draw  a  pair  of  lines  for  each. 

Along  one  rail,  opposite  each  rung,  drive  a  brad 
or  nail  %  or  1  inch  long  (Fig.  51),  and  in  the  other 
rail  drive  a  brad  or  nail  halfway  between  each  pair 
of  rungs.  This  completes  the  ladder. 

Tumble  Tom  may  be  drawn  from  the  model  shown, 
or  you  can  use  a  picture  cut  from  a  magazine.  The 
picture  must  be  drawn  or  pasted  upon  a  piece  of 
cardboard  cut  of  the  shape  and  size  shown  in  the 
diagram  of  Figure  53. 

How  the  Toy  Works.  Figure  51  shows  the  start 
of  Tom’s  tumble.  If  the  arms  are  cut  as  shown,  they 
will  slip  off  the  nails  alternately,  and  Tom  will  de¬ 
scend  rapidly  to  the  bottom.  If  you  wish,  you  can 
prepare  two  or  three  tumblers  and  start  one  after 
another  down  the  ladder. 

The  Topsy  Turvy  Blocks  shown  in  Figure  54  de- 


42  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Fig.  54. 


THE  TOPSY  TURVY  BLOCKS 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  43 


ceive  the  eye.  Apparently  the  block  next  the  top 
tumbles  from  its  place  to  the  bottom  of  the  string, 
but  in  reality  it  simply  turns  topsy  turvy  and  each 
succeeding  block  does  likewise. 

The  String  of  Blochs  can  be  made  as  long  as  you 
wish.  Eight  or  nine  is  a  good  number.  They  may 
be  cut  out  of  thin  wood  but  the  set  shown  in  Figure 
54  is  of  cardboard,  which  is  easier  and  quicker  to 
cut.  Figure  55  shows  a  good  size  to  make  them. 

The  blocks  are  connected  with  pieces  of  heavy 
linen  thread.  Each  block  requires  three  threads,  ex¬ 
cept  one  end  block  which  requires  none.  Cut  the 
threads  4%  inches  long.  For  fastening  the  threads 
to  the  cards,  cut  gummed  paper  or  adhesive  tape  into 
small  pieces.  The  gummed  flaps  of  envelopes  may 
be  used. 

To  Assemble  the  Blocks,  first  stick  three  threads 
to  all  blocks  except  one,  placing  one  thread  at  the 
center  of  one  end  and  two  near  the  edges  at  the  other 
end,  as  shown  in  Figure  56.  When  the  threads  have 
been  attached,  it  is  only  necessary  to  connect  the 
other  ends  to  adjoining  blocks.  You  will  readily 
understand  how  this  is  done  by  studying  the  dia¬ 
grams  of  Figures  57  and  58,  which  show  opposite 
faces  of  the  blocks.  Letters  A  and  B  represent  the 
threads  upon  alternate  blocks,  and  letters  C  and  D 
represent  the  threads  on  the  intermediate  blocks. 
You  will  notice  that  all  of  the  A  and  B  thread  ends 
are  fastened  to  the  same  face,  and  all  of  the  C  and 
the  D  thread  ends  to  the  opposite  face.  Turn  the 
blocks  about  so  that  the  ends  will  come  as  shown, 
compare  the  model  with  the  diagrams  to  be  sure  that 


U  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Fig.  55.  PATTERN  FOR  BLOCKS 

Fig.  56.  FASTEN  THREADS  TO  EACH  BLOCK  IN  THIS  MANNER 
Fig.  57.  ONE  FACE  OF  THE  ASSEMBLED  BLOCKS 
FlGt  58.  REVERSE  FACE  OF  THE  ASSEMBLED  BLOCKS 


TOY  PROBLEMS  FOR  THE  BIBLE  SCHOOL  45 


each  block  is  placed  correctly,  and  then  fasten  the 
thread  ends.  Leave  a  space  of  %  inch  between  the 
blocks. 

To  Start  the  Blochs  Tumbling,  hold  an  end  block 
with  one  hand  and  turn  it  over  endwise.  Doing  this 
will  cause  the  second  block  to  turn  over  as  shown  in 
Figure  54.  The  tumbling  second  block  will  cause  the 
third  block  to  turn  over,  and  so  on  down  to  the  end  of 
the  string. 


Chapter  III 

HANDICRAFT  FOR  THE  CHURCH  BAZAAR 

A  Whisk-Broom  Holder — Candle-Sticks — A  Thermometer  Board 
— A  Calendar-Board  and  Pen-Rack — A  Post-Card  Rack — 
A  Clock-Shelf — A  Broom-Holder — A  Holder  for  Safety 
Matches. 

Handicraft  mentioned  in  connection  with  bazaars 
suggests  fancywork,  because  that  is  what  we  find  at 
handicraft  booths,  as  a  rule.  It  is  the  work  of  the 
ladies  and  girls  of  the  church  and  Sunday  school,  not 
of  the  boys,  however.  You  haven’t  been  called  upon 
to  serve  in  any  way,  have  you?  You  haven’t  even 
“ carried  water  for  the  elephants,”  so  to  speak,  for 
an  admission  ticket.  Why  are  you  and  the  other 
boys  not  asked  to  contribute?  I  will  tell  you  why.  It 
is  because  no  one  has  an  idea  of  your  ability  to  sup¬ 
ply  a  line  of  saleable  articles.  Let  the  bazaar  com¬ 
mittee  see  what  you  can  do,  and  ask  them  to  allow 
you  to  demonstrate  your  ability  to  sell  articles  that 
you  make,  in  a  boys’  handicraft  booth,  and  there  will 
be  no  danger  of  your  not  being  invited  to  serve  in 
the  same  way  each  succeeding  year. 


THINGS  TO  MAKE 

There  are  an  unlimited  number  of  articles  that 
you  can  contribute  to  the  holiday  bazaar.  Half  a 

46 


Fig.  59 


Fig.  60 


FlG.  59.  A  WHISK-BROOM  HOLDER  DECORATED  WITH  A  PASTED  PICTURE 

Fig.  60.  A  CANDLE-STICK 
FlG.  6l.  A  THERMOMETER  BOARD 

[Facing  page  46 


HANDICRAFT  FOR  THE  CHURCH  BAZAAR  47 


dozen  ideas  or  more  are  presented  in  this  chapter, 
others  in  succeeding  chapters,  and  additional  ma¬ 
terial  will  be  found  in  “Home  Handicraft  for  Boys” 
and  my  other  books.  The  articles  selected  should  be 
small,  so  they  will  not  require  much  time  to  make, 
or  much  material,  and  so  they  can  be  sold  cheaply. 

WORKING  MATERIALS 

Cigar-boxes  can  be  had  for  the  asking  at  a  drug¬ 
store.  They  furnish  good  small  pieces  of  wood  that 
take  finish  nicely.  Grocery  boxes,  selected  care¬ 
fully,  and  packing-boxes,  like  those  in  which  paint- 
stores  receive  their  goods,  can  also  be  used  to  ad¬ 
vantage.  Ends  of  various  kinds  of  wood  can  often 
be  procured  for  little  or  nothing  at  mills,  factories 
and  carpenter  shops. 

Glue,  nails,  screws,  and  other  small  hardware 
needed  in  the  work  will  be  a  small  cost  item;  also, 
paint,  wood-stain,  shellac  and  varnish  which  can  be 
bought  in  small-sized  cans. 

A  WHISK-BROOM  HOLDER 

You  don’t  have  to  be  an  artist  to  make  things 
decorative.  An  example  of  how  you  can  decorate 
your  work  with  pictures  is  shown  in  the  photograph 
of  the  whisk-broom  holder  (Fig.  59).  The  bulldog’s 
head  in  the  picture  on  the  front  of  the  holder  was 
cut  from  a  calendar.  You  will  find  plenty  of  suitable 
pictures  on  calendars  and  magazine  covers,  and  it  is 
no  trick  to  cut  them  out  and  glue  them  to  a  surface 


48  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


of  the  article  you  are  making.  When  the  picture  is 
of  the  right  size,  its  outline  can  be  followed  in  saw¬ 
ing  out  the  piece  upon  which  it  is  to  be  mounted,  as 
was  done  in  the  case  of  the  front  of  the  whisk-broom 
holder.  This  makes  a  unique  design.  If,  however, 
the  picture  is  too  small,  a  margin  will  have  to  be  left 
around  it.  The  picture  used  for  the  whisk-broom 
holder  measures  7  inches  up-and-down  and  5% 
inches  across,  which  is  just  right.  These  dimensions 
may  be  varied  somewhat,  if  you  find  a  picture  of  dif¬ 
ferent  proportions. 

The  Front  of  the  Holder.  Cut  out  the  picture 
carefully,  cutting  just  outside  the  outline  so  the 
line  will  be  left  on  the  picture.  Then  place  the  pic¬ 
ture  upon  the  piece  of  board  to  be  used  for  the  front 
of  the  holder,  mark  around  it  with  a  pencil,  saw 
out  the  piece,  trim  up  the  edges  where  necessary 
with  knife  or  chisel,  and  smooth  with  sandpaper. 
Do  not  glue  the  picture  to  the  piece  until  after  the 
holder  has  been  assembled  and  finished. 

The  Other  Parts.  Figure  62  shows  a  cross-section 
of  the  bull-dog  whisk-broom  holder,  with  the  head 
(A)  drawn  in  full  outline,  the  back  (B)  in  dotted 
lines,  and  the  end  pieces  (C)  in  cross-section.  Fig¬ 
ure  63  shows  a  pattern  for  the  back.  If  the  front  of 
your  holder  is  a  different  width  (the  model  is  5% 
inches)  you  may  have  to  change  the  width  of  the 
back  piece.  Figure  64  is  a  pattern  of  the  end  pieces. 

Assemble  the  Parts  with  nails  and  glue.  Screw  a 
pair  of  screw-eyes  into  the  top  edge  of  the  back  piece 
for  hangers. 

Finishing.  The  ^  model  illustrated  was  finished 


HANDICRAFT  FOR  THE  CHURCH  BAZAAR  49 


with  one  coat  of  flat  white  paint  (paint  mixed  with¬ 
out  linseed  oil)  and  two  coats  of  white  enamel. 
This  is  the  best  finish  for  a  whisk-broom  holder  that 
is  to  hang  in  a  bedroom.  If  you  prefer  to  stain  the 
holder,  follow  staining  with  a  coat  of  shellac,  then 
wax  the  surfaces.  When  the  finish  has  dried,  coat 


Fig.  62.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  the  whisk-broom  holder  shown  in 

FIGURE  59 

Figs.  63  and  64.  patterns  of  back  and  end  pieces 

the  front  of  the  holder  and  the  back  of  the  picture 
with  glue,  put  the  picture  in  place,  rub  down  the  sur¬ 
face  with  a  cloth,  and  weight  it  with  books  until  the 
glue  has  set. 


CANDLE-STICKS 

Candle-sticks  are  in  vogue  now  and  can  be  sold  in 
pairs  or  singly.  Most  people  like  to  have  a  pair  of 
them  on  the  mantel-shelf.  Make  a  lot  of  them  for  the 


50  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

holiday  bazaar  for  you  will  have  no  difficulty  in  dis¬ 
posing  of  them.  The  design  shown  in  the  photo- 


FlGS.  65-^8.  PATTERNS  FOR  CANDLE-STICK  SHOWN  IN  FIGURE  60 

graph  of  Figure  60  is  an  attractive  one  that  is  easily 
executed. 


HANDICRAFT  FOR  THE  CHURCH  BAZAAR  51 


The  Parts.  Working-drawings  for  the  parts  of  the 
candle-stick  are  given  in  Figures  65  to  68.  Part  A  is 
the  base,  B  the  upright,  C  the  cap  block,  and  D  the 
handle.  Block  B  must  be  cut  out  of  1%  inch  stock ; 
%  inch  stuff  is  right  for  the  other  blocks.  If  you  are 
going  to  make  up  a  number  of  the  candle-sticks,  it 
will  save  time  to  buy  strips  1%  inches  square  and 
saw  them  into  the  right  lengths  for  blocks  B,  and  to 
buy  strips  1%  inches  wide  to  saw  up  for  cap  and 
handle  blocks  C  and  D.  To  save  waste,  base  blocks 
A  can  be  marked  off  on  a  board  by  turning  your  pat¬ 
tern  first  one  way,  then  the  other,  and  fitting  the 
slanted  edges  together. 

Cutting.  Cut  the  pieces  carefully.  You  may  be 
inclined  to  hurry  the  work,  in  making  a  number  of 
the  candle-sticks;  but  don’t  for  the  sake  of  your 
reputation.  Bore  the  holes  in  handle  blocks  D  be¬ 
fore  cutting  the  blocks,  to  avoid  splitting  the  wood. 
When  all  parts  have  been  cut,  smooth  them  with  No. 
00  sandpaper. 

Assembling.  Use  glue  and  1-inch  brads  for  as¬ 
sembling  the  parts.  If  oak  or  other  hard  wood  has 
been  used,  start  holes  for  the  brads  with  a  brad-awl 
or  wood-drill. 


A  THERMOMETER  BOARD 

This  little  novelty,  shown  in  the  photograph  of 
Figure  61,  has  a  back  of  the  shape  and  size  shown  in 
the  pattern  of  Figure  69.  Small  thermometers  can 
be  procured  through  a  jeweler  in  your  town.  One  4 
inches  long  will  cost  about  thirty  cents.  Small 


52  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


calendar  pads  can  be  bought  at  most  stationery 
stores  the  latter  part  of  the  year.  They  sell  at  two 
or  three  cents  apiece,  or  less  in  quantity. 


Fig.  69.  PATTERN  FOR  THERMOMETER  BOARD  SHOWN  IN  FIGURE  6l 


The  Board.  In  laying  out  the  thermometer  board 
and  other  pieces,  the  opposite  edges  of  which  are 
alike,  it  is  well  to  draw  a  center-line  on  the  piece  of 
work,  and  mark  oft  the  measurements  each  side  of 
it.  One  side  can  be  drawn,  then  a  tracing  made  of 


HANDICRAFT  FOR  THE  CHURCH  BAZAAR  53 

it,  the  paper  reversed,  and  the  outline  transferred  to 
the  opposite  side  of  the  center-line. 


tr 


♦  — 

- »  —  •  : 

JANUARY 

13 

Svx 

H«N 

TUC5 

WED 

Fri 

Sat 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

FlG.  70.  A  CALENDAR-BOARD  AND  PEN-RACK 
Fig.  71.  A  POST-CARD  RACK 

FlG.  72.  PATTERN  OF  BOARD  FOR  THE  PEN-RACK  AND  THE  POST-CARD 

RACK 

Assembling .  The  two  circles  shown  on  the  calen¬ 
dar  board  diagram  are  shallow  holes  provided  as 


54  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

recesses  for  the  thermometer  bulb  and  upper  tip  of 
the  tube  to  set  in.  Drive  a  screw-eye  into  the  top  of 
the  board  as  a  hanger.  Tack  the  thermometer  and 
calendar  pad  to  the  board  after  the  wood  has  been 
finished,  using  small  round-head  brass  nails  for  the 
purpose. 


Fig.  73.  A  CLOCK-SHELF 


A  CALENDAR-BOARD  AND  PEN-RACK 

The  little  calendar-board  and  pen-rack  shown  in 
Figure  70  requires  a  piece  of  board  of  the  dimen¬ 
sions  given  on  the  pattern  of  Figure  72.  Round  the 
corners  as  shown  in  Figure  70.  A  pair  of  thread 
spools  fastened  to  each  side  of  the  calendar  board 
form  a  base.  The  front  pair  make  the  pen  and  pen¬ 
cil  rack.  You  can  nail  the  spools  to  the  board;  or 
you  can  bore  a  pair  of  holes  through  the  board, 
drive  a  dowel-stick  through  each  hole,  and  glue 
spools  upon  the  stick  ends. 


HANDICRAFT  FOR  THE  CHURCH  BAZAAR  55 


A  POST-CAED  RACK 

The  post-card  or  stationery-rack  in  Figure  71  re¬ 
quires  two  pieces  of  the  shape  of  the  calendar- 
board.  The  pieces  are  connected  by  a  pair  of  spools. 
Bore  %-inch  holes  through  the  end  pieces,  and  run 
dowel-sticks  through  the  holes  and  the  spool  holes. 


Figs.  74  and  75.  patterns  for  top  and  bracket 


A  CLOCK-SHELF 

The  bracket  shelf  in  Figure  73  is  suitable  for  a 
kitchen  or  bedroom.  It  is  made  of  three  pieces,  a 
shelf,  back  board  and  bracket.  Dimensions  of  the 
pieces  are  shown  in  Figures  74  and  75.  Saw  off  the 
lower  corners  of  the  back  piece  (Fig.  73).  Nail  the 
shelf  to  the  top  edge  of  the  back  piece,  and  fasten 
the  bracket  to  both.  Bore  holes  through  the  back 
piece  to  provide  for  screwing  the  shelf  to  a  wall. 


56  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  BROOM-HOLDER 

Figure  76  shows  a  broom-holder.  Cut  the  bracket 
block  by  the  pattern  of  Figure  77.  Cut  the  back 


board  3^2  inches  wide  and  7  inches  long,  bevel  its 
four  edges  as  shown  in  Figure  76,  and  bore  a  hole 
near  each  end  for  screws.  Nail  the  back  to  the  edge 
of  the  bracket  block. 


Fig.  77.  pattern  for  broom -holder 
A  HOLDER  FOR  SAFETY  MATCHES 

This  makes  the  simplest  match-box  I  know  of,  and 
it  is  a  practical  one.  I  devised  the  holder  two  years 
ago  for  my  troop  of  Boy  Scouts  to  make  for  their 
Christmas  Gift  Shop,  and  the  boys  sold  dozens  of 
them.  It  makes  a  good  holder  beside  the  kitchen 
range  or  near  the  laundry  stove  or  furnace  in  the 


HANDICRAFT  FOR  THE  CHURCH  BAZAAR  57 

basement.  Urge  your  customers  to  buy  them  in  half 
dozen  lots. 

Marking  and  Cutting  the  Blocks.  Figure  78  shows 
the  holder  with  match-box  in  place,  Figure  79  shows 
the  little  block  that  supports  the  match-box,  and 


Fig.  8i 

Fig.  78.  “A  HOLDER  FOR  SAFETY  MATCHES 
Figs.  79-81.  details  of  the  match  holder 


Figure  80  shows  how  by  marking  oft  distances  of 
1%  inches  along  a  piece  of  l-by-2  “furring  strip” 
(this  will  measure  %  inch  thick  and  1%  inches  wide), 
you  can  saw  up  the  strip  into  a  number  of  blocks  in 
a  jiffy.  In  cutting  the  blocks,  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  split  the  edges.  To  prevent  this,  place  the 
strip  upon  another  strip  and  saw  through  the  upper 


58  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

strip  into  the  lower  one.  When  the  blocks  have  been 
sawed,  cut  away  one-half  of  the  surface  on  one  face 
to  a  depth  of  %  inch,  as  shown  in  Figure  79.  This 
is  best  done  with  a  small  saw  but  a  chisel  can  be  used. 

Finish  the  Blochs  by  drilling  holes  for  nails  or 
screws  for  fastening  to  a  wall  or  other  surface,  then 
giving  them  a  coat  of  paint,  stain,  or  shellac. 

The  Match-box .  The  sleeve  cover  of  the  match¬ 
box  will  slip  over  the  block  as  shown  in  Figure  78, 
and  there  will  be  enough  clearance  between  the  cover 
and  the  surface  to  which  the  block  is  to  be  fastened, 
for  the  cover  to  slip  on  and  off  easily.  The  upper 
part  of  the  match-box  should  be  broken  away  at  the 
height  of  the  sleeve  cover  (Figs.  78  and  81).  Then 
the  match-ends  can  be  reached  easily.  The  upper 
part  of  the  box  can  be  broken  off  after  the  lower 
part  has  been  slipped  into  the  sleeve. 


Chapter  IV 

THE  SAND  TABLE 

/ 

The  Sand  Box — The  Sand  Box  Supports — Painting  the  Sand 
Table — Materials  for  Model  Making — Care  of  Properties. 

This  important  piece  of  equipment  for  the  pri¬ 
mary  department  of  the  Sunday  school  is  not  as 
commonly  used  as  it  should  be.  Often  this  is  because 
the  ready-made  table  is  expensive  and  no  one  volun¬ 
teers  to  build  one.  A  zinc-lined  tray  with  a  table 
base  is  unnecessary;  on  the  other  hand  the  box 
should  be  better  made  than  some  of  the  carelessly 
knocked  together  trays  that  we  find  in  use.  It  should 
be  a  tight  box,  but  not  necessarily  water-tight  as  it 
is  not  intended  to  hold  water.  With  the  bottom 
boards  matched  and  all  boards  well  nailed,  and  the 
completed  box  given  two  coats  of  paint,  inside  and 
out,  there  will  be  no  danger  of  sand  sifting  through 
onto  the  floor.  By  sprinkling  the  sand  with  a  sprink¬ 
ling-can  it  is  easy  to  regulate  the  amount  of  water 
when  the  sand  is  to  be  made  wet.  If  a  metal-lined 
box  is  desired  by  the  school,  it  is  not  difficult  for  a 
boy  experienced  in  soldering  to  make  a  galvanized 
iron  liner.  Or,  one  can  be  ordered  at  a  tinshop  for 

about  four  dollars.  However,  I  shall  show  no  detail 

59 


60  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


of  a  liner,  because  I  believe  that  few  will  insist  on 
increasing  the  cost  of  the  equipment  in  this  manner. 


THE  SAHD  BOX 

You  boys  will  say  that  the  tray  shown  in  Figure 
82  looks  like  a  wagon-box;  and  so  it  does,  except  that 


FlG.  82.  THE  COMPLETED  SAND  BOX 
Fig.  83.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  box 

Fig.  84.  MAKE  THE  BOX  BOTTOM  OF  TONGUED-AND-GROOVED  BOARDS 


there  is  no  end-gate.  By  Figures  83  and  84  you  will 
see  that  its  sides  overlap  its  ends,  and  that  its  bottom 
boards  overlap  the  sides  and  ends,  just  like  any 
other  box.  A  base  band,  consisting  of  a  lattice-strip 
1%  inches  wide,  conceals  the  joints  between  the  bot¬ 
tom  boards  and  box  ends  and  sides,  and  a  strip  % 
inch  thick  and  %  inch  wide  trims  the  upper  edges. 


THE  SAND  TABLE 


61 


A  good  size  for  the  sand  tray  is  4%  inches  deep  in¬ 
side,  30  inches  wide,  and  48  inches  long.  The  depth 
suggested  provides  for  3  inches  of  sand,  and  enough 
space  above  it  to  keep  the  sand  from  scattering  on 
the  floor. 

Material .  Make  the  box  of  soft  pine,  cypress  or 
spruce.  Do  not  use  hard  pine  or  other  hard  wood, 
as  it  is  too  heavy.  For  the  bottom  buy  6-inch 
tongued-and-grooved  flooring.  Buy  2-inch  finishing 
nails  for  nailing  the  box  together. 

Figure  84  shows  the  box  frame  with  severahof  the 
bottom  boards  nailed  in  place.  Drive  the  boards 
close  together  and  nail  well. 

THE  SAND  BOX  SUPPORTS 

The  support  for  the  sand  box  should  be  no  higher 
than  a  chair-seat,  which  is  about  18  inches.  A  regu¬ 
lar  table  can  be  built  on  which  to  keep  the  box,  or 
legs  can  be  fastened  to  the  corners  of  the  box,  but  a 
pair  of  carpenter’s  horses  are  probably  the  best  sup¬ 
ports  (Fig.  85).  The  top  of  the  horse  is  a  piece  of 
2-by-4,  the  legs  are  pieces  of  l-by-4,  the  end  braces 
are  cut  from  a  6-inch  board.  Figure  86  shows  the 
correct  spread  of  the  legs,  and  how  the  tops  are  let 
into  the  sides  of  the  top  piece.  Cut  away  the  piece 
of  2-by-4  as  shown  in  Figure  87.  The  sides  of  the 
cut  should  be  sawed  and  the  wood  between  the  cuts 
should  be  split  out  with  a  chisel.  Fasten  the  legs 
with  screws.  The  shape  of  the  end  braces  can  be 
marked  off  by  placing  the  board  against  the  legs 
and  marking  off  where  the  legs  come.  Nail  them  to 


62  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


the  edges  of  the  legs.  The  bottom  of  the  legs  should 
be  trimmed  off  to  make  them  stand  squarely  upon 
the  floor.  Mark  them  for  trimming  by  placing  a 
block  of  wood  against  them,  one  side  at  a  time,  and 
drawing  a  line  even  with  the  top  of  the  block. 


Fig.  85.  a  pair  of  carpenter’s  horses  make  'good  supports  for  the 

SAND  BOX 

Fig.  86.  detail  showing  height  and  spread  of  legs 
Fig.  87.  detail  of  top  showing  beveled  cut  for  leg 


PAINTING  THE  SAND  TABLE 

The  sand  box  shown  in  the  photograph  of  Figure 
89  is  painted  gray,  inside  and  out,  with  top  band 
painted  red.  Apply  two  coats,  and  between  the  two 
applications  putty  up  joints  and  nail-holes.  Paint 
the  saw-horse  supports  to  match  the  box. 


Fig.  88.  some  properties  for  sand  table  models 


64  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


MATERIALS  FOR  MODEL  MAKING 

Possibly  your  interest  in  tbe  sand  table  will  not  go 
beyond  tbe  construction  of  the  box  and  supports,  but 
you  would  enjoy  helping  the  instructor  hunt  up  her 
materials  for  model  making,  I  know.  Some  of  the 
properties  are  illustrated  in  Figure  88. 

Sand.  In  the  first  place,  for  filling  the  box  go 
to  a  dealer  in  building  materials,  or  to  a  building 
contractor,  and  purchase  the  equivalent  of  four 
large  pails  of  sand,  not  the  kind  known  as  torpedo 
sand,  but  the  finer  beach  sand.  As  you  probably 
would  have  to  pay  for  having  such  a  small  amount 
of  sand  hauled,  you  can  make  a  couple  of  trips  for 
it  with  your  express  wagon. 

Mountains.  The  base  of  mountains  should  be 
made  by  heaping  up  the  sand.  Stones  can  be  added 
to  produce  a  rocky  effect. 

Water.  The  simplest  way  of  producing  realistic 
water  effects  is  by  the  use  of  mirrors,  or  pieces  of 
broken  mirrors.  It  is  not  necessary  to  remove  the 
mirror  frame  as  this  can  be  concealed  with  sand. 
Small  mirrors  can  be  purchased  in  the  ten-cent 
stores,  and  one  7-by-9  inches  can  be  had  for  twenty- 
five  cents.  If  you  wish  to  use  real  water,  get  a  cake- 
tin  with  low  sides,  and  set  it  in  the  sand,  concealing 
the  sides  with  sand,  and  the  bottom  with  sand  and 
gravel.  In  using  the  pan  it  is  important  to  break 
up  the  regularity  of  its  sides  by  extending  capes  and 
peninsulas  out  into  it.  Green  or  blue  tissue-paper 
may  be  crushed  into  the  form  of  waves  to  represent 
stormy  seas. 


THE  SAND  TABLE 


65 


Trees .  In  some  parts  of  the  country,  you  can  find 
branches  of  trees  and  shrubbery  that  make  realistic 
small  trees.  Tips  of  pine,  spruce  and  other  ever¬ 
greens  are  good  tree  material.  Burrs  stuck  together 
and  mounted  on  twigs  make  good  tropical  trees,  and 
I  have  stuck  them  on  end,  side  by  side,  to  represent 
shrubbery.  Here  is  a  good  field  for  experimental 
work.  By  keeping  your  eyes  open  while  on  hikes 
you  will  see  many  grasses,  weeds  and  ferns  well 
adapted  to  miniature  tree  and  shrubbery  making, 
and  in  the  course  of  a  summer  you  can  gather  a 
large  stock  of  material. 

Trees  and  shrubbery  can  be  made  of  sponges  torn 
apart  into  the  shapes  wanted.  Another  way  to  make 
trees  is  to  take  sticks  an  inch  or  so  square,  whittle 
them  round,  and  then  shave  them  off  from  the  cen¬ 
ter  towards  the  end,  leaving  the  curled  shavings  to 
stand  out  in  the  manner  shown  in  Figure  89.  All 
artificial  trees  can  be  stained  with  oil-paint  thinned 
with  turpentine,  or  with  dyes. 

Moss  is  excellent  for  grassy  slopes,  and  closely 
cropped  sod  may  also  be  used. 

Buildings.  Sets  of  small  buildings  can  be  obtained 
in  toy  stores,  but  these  will  not  always  do  for  the 
lesson  to  be  illustrated  in  the  model.  More  appro¬ 
priate  buildings  can  often  be  made  of  small  stones, 
while  match-boxes,  pill-boxes,  spools,  corks,  type¬ 
writer  ribbon  boxes  and  small  candy  boxes,  can  be 
used  in  the  construction  of  buildings.  By  coating 
these  containers  with  glue  then  sprinkling  sand  or 
salt  over  the  coated  surfaces,  the  effect  of  stone  can 
be  produced.  Modeling  clay  and  plaster-of -Paris 


66  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


can  also  be  used  to  advantage  in  making  structures 
of  the  various  types  of  Bible  times.  Tents  may  be 
made  of  white  note-paper. 

In  making  buildings,  trees  and  other  parts  of  the 
sand  table  models,  use  care  to  make  them  of  propor¬ 
tions  as  nearly  correct  as  possible. 

Figures.  It  is  difficult  to  find  dolls  of  the  right 
size  for  Bible  story  models,  and  teachers  who  have 
used  dolls  for  the  purpose  are  of  the  opinion  that 
their  use  is  ill-advised  because  of  the  problem  of 
dressing  them  in  keeping  with  tradition.  Many  pre¬ 
fer  the  use  of  matches,  short  wax  tapers  or  straws. 
Houses  that  supply  Sunday  school  requisites  furnish 
sheets  of  Bible  picture  cut-outs  that  are  excellent 
for  sand  table  models  permitting  the  use  of  figures 
several  inches  high.  A  complete  list  of  Bible-picture 
subjects  can  be  obtained  in  these  cut-outs.  Toy  lead 
soldiers,  with  guns  removed,  can  be  included,  and 
animals  from  a  toy  Noah’s  ark.  Patterns  for  a 
number  of  animals  are  given  in  Chapter  Y,  “A 
Noah’s  Ark.”  Other  small  animals  can  be  picked 
up  in  a  ten-cent  store  and  in  toy  stores.  In  the 
photograph  of  Figure  89,  animal  crackers  have  been 
used  for  the  model  illustrating  the  story  of  the  Ark. 

CARE  OF  MODEL  PROPERTIES 

Once  you  have  acquired  a  large  collection  of  ma¬ 
terials  for  model  properties,  or  started  a  collection, 
a  suitable  method  of  filing  must  be  found.  By  no 
means  should  everything  be  dumped  into  a  box  after 
use,  for  much  of  it  would  be  unfit  for  use  a  second 


FlG.  89.  A  SAND  TABLE  MODEL  ILLUSTRATING  THE  STORY  OF  NOAH’S  ARK 


Fig.  go.  this  noah’s  ark  model  is  easy  to  build 
(For  working  details  and  instructions,  see  Chapter  V) 


A 


[  Facing  page  66 


THE  SAND  TABLE 


67 


time,  as  a  result  of  rough  handling.  The  best  way  to 
keep  the  materials  is  to  arrange  them  in  a  vertical 
filing  cabinet,  like  that  described  and  illustrated  in 
Chapter  IX.  Cigar-boxes  and  starch-boxes  can  be 
used  for  containers,  and  the  shelves  of  the  cabinet 
spaced  the  correct  distance  to  accommodate  them. 
This  cabinet  can  be  made  large  enough  to  hold  quar¬ 
terlies,  picture-cards,  and  various  primary  supplies, 
in  addition  to  the  sand  table  properties. 


Chapter  V 

A  NOAH’S  ARK 

Building  the  Ark — Cutting  and  Mounting  the  Birds  and  Animals. 

A  Noah’s  ark  and  its  animals  furnish  a  good  set 
of  problems  for  the  Daily  Vacation  Bible  School,  the 
former  a  problem  in  laying  out,  cutting,  and  assem¬ 
bling  parts  accurately,  the  latter  in  cutting  irregu¬ 
lar-shaped  pieces  with  a  coping-saw.  A  time-worn 
toy  is  this,  but  it  also  has  its  practical  use  in  the 
primary  department,  where  it  may  be  kept  among 
the  properties  for  sand  table  work.  Figure  89,  in 
the  preceding  chapter,  shows  the  ark  for  which  work¬ 
ing  drawings  are  given  in  this  chapter,  in  the  sand 
table  picture  model  illustrating  “The  Story  of 
Noah’s  Ark,”  and  Figure  90  shows  a  larger  view  of 
the  ark. 

Figure  91  shows  a  detail  drawing  of  the  completed 
ark,  and  Figures  92  to  100  details  of  its  parts.  If 
these  details  are  carefully  followed,  the  resultant 
model  will  be  more  substantial  and  better  looking 
than  most  of  the  store  arks. 

Material.  This  ark  is  built  of  wood  ^4-inch  thick, 
but  grocery  boxes,  even  though  they  may  be  %-inch 
wood  will  serve  the  purpose  just  as  well  as  the  thin¬ 
ner  stuff,  so  do  not  go  to  the  expense  of  having  the 
material  planed  down. 

Do  you  know  the  right  way  to  separate  the  boards 

68  * 


A  NOAH’S  ARK 


69 


of  a  box!  Do  not  try  to  remove  a  board  by  ham¬ 
mering  directly  against  it,  especially  if  it  is  a  wide, 
thin  board.  It  is  almost  certain  to  split  if  yon  do 
this.  Place  a  block  of  wood  across  the  width  of  the 
board  and  direct  your  hammer  blows  against  it.  The 
force  of  the  blows  then,  will  be  distributed  evenly 


Fig.  91.  detail  of  noah’s  ark  shown  in  photograph  of  figure  90 

over  the  width  of  the  board,  and  the  board  will  come 
off  easily.  Eemove  one  end  of  the  board,  first,  then 
the  other.  If  the  board  is  nailed  along  its  edge,  use 
the  block  to  separate  it  from  the  box. 

Laying  Out  and  Cutting  the  Parts.  Figure  92 
shows  a  detail  of  the  ark  with  its  roof  removed. 
Figure  93  is  a  detail  of  the  roof.  Figure  94  a  cross- 
section  of  the  ark,  and  Figures  95  to  99  show  pat¬ 
terns  for  all  of  the  parts  required,  with  dimensions. 
First,  prepare  two  side  walls  like  A  (Fig  95),  then 


70  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


two  end  walls  like  B  (Fig.  96).  One  piece  can  be  laid 
ont  and  cut,  then  used  as  a  pattern  for  marking  the 
second  piece.  If  you  have  a  bit  and  bit-stock  or  a 
hand  gimlet  bore  a  hole  at  each  of  the  four  corners 


Fig.  92.  DETAIL  OF  ARK  WITH  ROOF  REMOVED 
FlG.  93.  DETAIL  OF  ROOF 


of  the  doorways  in  the  end  walls,  and  cut  from  hole 
to  hole  with  a  small  saw.  If  you  have  no  tool  for 
boring,  cut  the  doorways  with  your  knife.  By  scor¬ 
ing  the  wood  around  the  openings,  on  both  sides  of 
the  board,  with  your  knife,  the  thin  wood  will  cut 
through  quickly. 

Assembling  the  Parts .  Nail  end  walls  B  to  the 


A  NOAH’S  ARK 


71 


Fig.  98 


Fig.  96 


Fig.  97  Fig.  100  Fig.  94 


Fig.  94.  cross-section  of  ark 
Figs.  95-99.  details  of  walls,  roof  and  deck 
Fig.  ioo.  detail  of  spool  wheels  for  model 


72  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


ends  of  the  side  walls  A.  Then  cnt  a  board  to  fit 
between  the  four  walls  for  the  floor  (C,  Fig.  94),  and 
fasten  it  in  position  with  brads.  Pieces  D  (Fig.  97) 
form  the  decks  fore  and  aft  (Fig.  92). 

The  Roof .  Instead  of  nailing  one  side  of  the  roof 
to  the  ark,  and  hinging  the  other  half  to  it,  as  the 
roofs  of  most  toy  arks  are  built,  the  entire  roof  is 
built  in  one  removable  section.  This  is  a  stronger 
form  of  construction.  Hinged  roofs  are  easily 
broken.  The  roof  is  made  of  four  pieces  (E,  F,  G, 
Figs,  93,  94,  98  and  99).  Pieces  E  and  F  are  of  the 
same  length  (Fig.  98)  but  F  is  %  inch  narrower 
than  E  because  the  latter  is  lapped  over  its  edge. 
Pieces  G  are  braces.  Cut  them  of  the  size  shown  in 
Figure  99.  Fasten  them  between  boards  E  and  F, 
1%  inches  from  the  ends,  so  they  will  fit  between  the 
gables  of  the  end  walls  when  the  roof  section  is 
placed  upon  the  ark. 

Mounting  the  Toy  Ark.  The  toy  ark  is  mounted 
upon  spool  wheels  (H,  Figs.  94  and  100),  so  that  it 
can  be  drawn  across  the  floor  like  a  toy  wagon.  Get 
four  spools  of  equal  size.  Spools  1%  inches  in  diam¬ 
eter  and  2%  inches  long  are  the  best  size  to  use. 
Cut  a  round  stick  axle  to  fit  loosely  in  the  spool 
holes.  Cut  the  axle  sticks  just  long  enough  to  fit  be¬ 
tween  walls  A  of  the  ark  (I,  Fig.  100)  and  fasten 
them  with  brads  driven  through  the  walls  into  their 
ends  (Fig.  94). 

Finishing.  Probably  the  original  ark  was  not 
painted.  Our  toy  should  be,  though,  and  I  would 
suggest  yellow  or  green  for  the  walls  and  red  for 
the  roof  and  the  decks. 


! 


Fig.  ioi.  patterns  for  noah  and  a  few  animals  for  the  toy 

ARK.  (MAKE  TRACINGS  OF  THESE  ON  THIN  PAPER  AND  THEN 
TRANSFER  THEM  TO  CARDBOARD.) 


.. 


74  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Birds  and  Animals .  Full-size  patterns  for  a  num¬ 
ber  of  animals  for  the  toy  ark  are  given  in  Figure 

101.  Any  well  illustrated  encyclopedia  will  furnish 
you  with  drawings  for  additional  animals  and  birds. 
The  patterns  in  Figure  101  can  be  traced  upon  thin 
paper,  then  the  paper  can  be  reversed,  and  the  out¬ 
lines  transferred  upon  cigar-box  wood,  or  other  thin 
wood  or  wallboard. 

The  pattern  shown  for  Noah  can  be  altered  for 
other  members  of  Noah’s  family. 

Working  Material.  If  you  use  cigar-box  wood, 
prepare  the  boxes  for  use  by  first  placing  them  in  a 
pail  or  tub  of  hot  water,  and  allowing  them  to  soak 
until  the  paper  labels  loosen.  Peel  off  the  paper, 
place  the  box  covers  against  the  bottoms,  bind  them 
with  string  to  hold  them  flat,  and  place  the  boxes 
in  a  warm  place  to  dry.  When  the  wood  is  dry, 
separate  the  boxes.  Other  woods  suited  to  coping- 
saw  work  are  holly,  basswood,  and  whitewood. 
Wallboard  cuts  as  easily  as  wood,  and  is  nice  ma¬ 
terial  to  work  with  because  it  does  not  split.  Rough 
edges  can  be  sandpapered  smooth  just  the  same  as 
rough  edges  of  wood. 

Cutting.  It  is  not  necessary  to  cut  out  the  figures 
along  the  drawing  outlines.  They  will  be  stronger, 
in  fact,  if  you  do  not,  as  you  will  see  by  looking  at 
one  of  the  finished  animal  cut-outs  shown  in  Figure 

102. 

Use  a  coping-saw  for  cutting.  This  small  saw 
can  be  worked  around  curves  and  along  short 
straight  cuts  where  no  other  saw  could  be  used. 
This  style  of  saw  is  shown  in  use,  in  the  sketch  of 


A  NOAH’S  ARK 


75 


Figure  8,  in  Chapter  I,  which  also  shows  a  good 
form  of  box  bench  to  saw  on. 

Mounting.  When  you  have  cut  out  the  figures, 
make  mounts  for  them  of  narrow  strips  of  wood, 


Fig.  102.  MOUNT  THE  animals  between  wooden  blocks,  like  this 

fastening  the  strips  to  opposite  sides  of  the  bases 
with  brads,  as  shown  in  Figure  102. 

Coloring.  If  you  wish  to  you  can  color  the  ani¬ 
mals  with  crayons  or  watercolors. 


Chapter  VI 

MAKING  A  MODEL  OF  YOUR  CHURCH 

BUILDING 

A  Model  of  tlie  New  Building — The  Model  as  a  Bank  for  the 
Building  Fund — A  Model  of  the  Old  Building — A  Card¬ 
board  Model — A  Wooden  Model — A  Clay  or  Plaster  Model. 

Because  it  is  difficult  for  some  people  to  visualize 
the  finished  building  from  drawings,  many  archi¬ 
tects  make  or  have  made  models  of  proposed  resi¬ 
dences,  churches,  schools,  and  other  buildings,  with 
every  detail  in  correct  proportion.  A  number  of 
firms  make  a  specialty  of  this  work,  and  some  of 
the  models  shown  in  architectural  exhibits  are  truly 
wonderful.  Some  of  these  models  are  made  of  wall- 
board,  some  of  cardboard,  some  of  wood,  some  are 
modeled  in  clay  and  cast  in  plaster-of-Paris.  Then 
the  texture  of  the  building  materials  is  worked  out 
with  paints,  with  pen-and-ink,  with  plaster,  with 
glue  and  sand  and  in  other  ways.  After  the  model 
has  been  completed  it  is  usually  mounted  upon  a 
base  of  the  right  size  to  represent  the  building  lot, 
and  a  scheme  for  landscape  gardening  is  laid  out, 
all  to  scale. 

Architectural  models  of  buildings  are  expensive 

to  have  made,  for  they  represent  more  work  than 

76 


9 


MODEL  OF  YOUR  CHURCH  BUILDING  77 

one  would  suppose.  But  the  work  is  not  difficult, 
and  can  be  done  by  any  lad  with  plenty  of  patience 
and  a  good  sense  of  proportion — best  of  all,  if  a 
boy  has  had  mechanical  drawing  at  school  and  can 
read  an  architect’s  blueprints.  He  can  generally 
obtain  a  set  of  blueprints  of  any  new  building  of 
which  he  wishes  to  make  a  model,  and  make  a  model 
that  will  be  exactly  correct  in  every  detail. 

A  MODEL  OF  THE  NEW  BUILDING 

If  your  church  is  about  to  erect  a  new  building, 
and  you  are  interested  in  building,  and  have  an 
idea  that  sometime  you  may  take  up  the  study  of 
architecture,  or  if  you  just  naturally  like  to  con¬ 
struct  things,  suppose  that  you  try  your  hand  at 
making  a  model  from  a  set  of  the  architect’s  plans. 
The  model  of  the  new  church  building  will  be  ap¬ 
preciated,  especially  by  the  building  committee 
whose  mission  it  is  to  raise  funds  and  erect  a  struc¬ 
ture  that  will  please  the  majority  of  the  church 
members. 

THE  MODEL  AS  A  BANK  FOR  THE  BUILDING  FUND 

One  successful  plan  that  has  been  tried  is  that  of 
making  a  slot  in  the  roof  of  the  church  model  and 
converting  it  into  a  bank  for  contributions  to  the 
building  fund.  After  the  model  has  served  its  pur¬ 
pose  as  a  booster  for  the  new  building,  a  shelf  can  be 
erected  for  it  in  the  Sunday  school  room  or  it  can  be 
continued  in  service  as  a  contribution  box. 


78  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  MODEL  OF  THE  OLD  BUILDING 

A  model  of  the  old  building  would  be  appreciated, 
also,  by  the  old-timers  who  had  a  hand  in  its  erec¬ 
tion,  so  you  or  some  one  else  in  your  class  might 
make  such  a  model  before  the  wreckers  raze  the 
building  to  make  way  for  a  new  building.  The  old 
and  new  models,  placed  side  by  side,  will  show  the 
growth  of  the  church. 

A  CAKDBOAKD  MODEL 

It  is  easiest  to  make  a  scale  model  of  a  building 
of  cardboard.  Matboard,  such  as  is  sold  for  photo¬ 
graph  mounts,  is  good.  This  can  be  obtained  in 
various  colors,  and  often  you  can  find  a  shade 
that  will  match  that  of  the  material  of  which  the 
building  is  to  be  constructed.  Wallboard  is  also 
excellent  for  the  work. 

The  Walls .  If  you  have  had  a  course  in  mechani¬ 
cal  drawing,  it  will  be  an  easy  matter  to  lay  out  the 
four  elevations  of  the  building  to  scale,  upon  four 
pieces  of  cardboard.  Use  a  sharp  knife  for  cutting 
matboard.  Score  along  all  outlines  of  each  eleva¬ 
tion,  by  cutting  deeply  into  the  cardboard,  then  cut 
the  rest  of  the  thickness,  or  bend  over  the  cardboard 
so  that  it  will  break  along  the  scored  lines.  The 
door  and  window  openings  can  be  cut  out,  but  gen¬ 
erally  these  are  left  intact.  It  makes  an  interesting 
model  to  cut  out  the  window  panes,  cover  the  open¬ 
ings  with  transparent  paper,  and  then  place  a  small 
electric  light  inside,  to  give  the  effect  of  an  electric- 


MODEL  OF  YOUR  CHURCH  BUILDING  79 

lighted  interior.  Use  a  sharp  knife  or  saw  for  cut¬ 
ting  wallboard. 

Assembling .  When  the  four  walls  have  been  cut, 
fasten  them  together  at  the  corners  with  strips  of 
gummed  paper.  Then  mount  the  model  upon  a 
board  base  before  proceeding  with  its  construction. 

Bays ,  Porches ,  Steps  and  Balustrades  can  be 
added  now,  or  left  until  after  the  building  has  been 
roofed. 

The  Boof.  The  pitch  of  this  can  be  obtained  from 
the  blueprint  elevations.  Be  careful  to  cut  the  roof¬ 
ing  pieces  of  the  right  sizes  so  they  will  have  the 
correct  projections. 

Shingles ,  Slate  and  Tile  coverings  of  the  roof  can 
be  indicated  with  paint,  but  a  better  way,  and  one 
used  by  achitectural  model  builders,  is  to  cover  the 
roofing  cardboard  with  a  thin  coating  of  plasticine 
(a  non-drying  modeling  compound),  and  then  mark 
off  shingles,  slate  or  tile  with  the  point  of  a  nail. 

Brickwork.  As  plasticine  can  be  obtained  in  vari¬ 
ous  colors,  you  can  match  building  materials  with  it. 
Terra  cotta  shades  of  it  plastered  thinly  upon  the 
walls,  with  joints  struck  in  black  or  white,  make  ef¬ 
fective  brickwork,  when  well  done. 

Stucco  can  be  imitated  by  spattering  the  walls  with 
paint  of  the  desired  color. 

Painting.  Paint  all  stone  courses  and  woodwork. 
Indicate  indefinitely  shades  upon  the  windows,  and 
blacken  the  glass  below  the  shades. 

Stained  Glass  Windows  can  be  painted  with  water- 
colors;  or,  if  you  can  find  a  suitable  colored  post¬ 
card,  or  Sunday  school  card,  of  the  right  size,  bear- 


80  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


mg  just  such  a  picture  as  would  be  used  in  a  church 
window,  you  can  set  it  in  the  opening. 


Fig.  105.  if  you  cannot  obtain  blueprints  to  work 

FROM,  MAKE  A  SKETCH  OF  EACH  ELEVATION  OF  THE 
BUILDING,  LIKE  THIS 


If  you  wish  to  make  a  model  of  a  church  building 
of  which  no  plans  are  available,  make  a  sketch  of 
each  elevation  similar  to  that  shown  in  Fig.  105. 


Fig.  103.  a  wooden 

MODEL  OF  A  CHURCH 
BUILDING  MADE  BY 
EARL  HEMMERLY 


Fig.  104.  ANOTHER 
MODEL  BUILT  BY 
THE  SAME  LAD 


[ Facing  page  80 


MODEL  OF  YOUR  CHURCH  BUILDING  81 


Yon  can  get  all  horizontal  measurements  accurately 
with  a  rule  or  tape,  and  you  can  approximate  heights 
in  the  same  way  that  you  would  measure  the  height 
of  a  tree. 


A  WOODEN  MODEL 

This  is  more  difficult  to  make  to  scale  than  a  card¬ 
board  or  wallboard  model,  because  the  walls  must  be 
built  up  of  many  pieces.  But  if  you  are  experienced 
in  woodworking  you  may  prefer  wood  to  other  ma¬ 
terial. 

The  photographs  of  Figures  103  and  104  show  in¬ 
teresting  models  built  a  number  of  years  ago  by  one 
of  my  readers,  Earl  Hemmerly,  of  Allentown,  Penn¬ 
sylvania.  Earl  began  making  models  before  he  was 
old  enough  to  go  to  school,  his  first  model  being  a 
Noah’s  ark.  He  built  the  church  model  in  Figure 
103 — a  model  of  his  own  church — while  he  was  still 
in  grammar  school,  the  model  in  Figure  104,  a  year 
later. 

The  Foundation .  You  must  first  of  all  provide  a 
base  on  which  to  build  the  wooden  model.  Make  this 
of  several  boards  battened  together  with  strips 
nailed  across  their  ends. 

The  Building .  Upon  the  base,  build  the  main  por¬ 
tion  of  the  structure,  then  add  to  it  whatever  wings 
and  towers  there  may  be,  then  construct  the  roof  and 
steeples,  then  add  the  moldings  and  various  orna¬ 
mentations. 

Doorways  and  Window  Openings  can  be  cut 
through  the  walls,  or  they  may  be  indicated  with 


82  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


paint,  which  is  easier.  Strips  of  cigar-box  wood 
nailed  around  painted  openings  will  make  them  look 
real.  A  small  saw  and  a  jack-knife  will  take  care  of 
all  cutting. 

A  Real  Stained  Glass  Window  is  set  in  the  model 
shown  in  Figure  103,  and  this  is  the  way  Earl  Hem- 
merly  made  it.  First,  he  prepared  a  negative  from 
a  picture  post-card,  then  from  the  negative  he  made 
a  positive,  which  he  colored  to  match  the  post-card, 
and  this  he  set  in  an  opening  cut  in  the  wall.  With 
a  lighted  electric-lamp  placed  inside  the  model, 
light  coming  through  the  stained  glass  window  pro¬ 
duces  a  realistic  effect. 

In  building  the  other  model  (Fig.  104),  Earl  made 
use  of  various  pick-up  materials,  among  which  were 
the  following: 

Columns.  Broom-handles  and  dowel-sticks. 

Dome.  A  tin  funnel  with  the  spout  removed. 

Cornices  and  Belt  Courses.  Wooden  picture- 
moldings  with  tacks  driven  into  them  for  ornamen¬ 
tation. 

Painting.  When  the  wooden  model  has  been  com¬ 
pleted,  paint  it  with  two  coats  of  paint. 

A  CLAY  OR  PLASTER  MODEL 

Making  a  clay  model  of  a  building,  then  casting  it 
in  plaster-of-Paris,  is  a  problem  in  which  you  may 
not  be  successful,  especially  in  the  latter  operations 
of  making  the  plaster  molds  and  the  plaster  casts. 
But  if  you  have  modeling  clay,  you  will  find  it  inter- 


MODEL  OF  YOUR  CHURCH  BUILDING  83 


esting  to  make  a  small  model  of  the  church.  It  need 
not  be  cast  in  plaster,  for  it  will  dry  hard,  and  in  this 
form  it  will  last  a  long  time.  Try  your  hand  at 
making  such  a  model  when  you  have  the  opportunity. 


Chapter  VII 

FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 

A  Plant  Box — A  Hanging  Plant  Box — A  Pedestal  Box — A  Trellis 
— A  Red-Cross  Wren  House — Another  Wren  House — A 
Bluebird  House — A  Woodpecker  House — A  Concrete  Bird 
Bath — A  Pedestal  Bird  Bath. 

We  make  plant  boxes,  trellises,  bird  houses  and 
bird  baths  for  home,  and  onr  school  boards  give 
more  attention  each  year  to  beautifying  the  school 
grounds.  Are  there  not  possibilities  of  adding  to 
the  beauty  of  our  churches  and  lawns  ?  I  believe 
that  you  might  contribute  your  share  to  the  general 
improvement  by  making  garden  accessories. 

A  PLANT  BOX 

A  well  designed,  carefully  made  plant  box,  suit¬ 
ably  planted,  and  regularly  tended  gives  a  charm  to 
any  window-sill  or  balustrade. 

The  depth  of  a  box  need  not  be  more  than  6  inches, 
and  should  not  be  more  than  7  inches,  because  of  the 
amount  of  earth  required  for  filling.  The  width  and 
length  will  be  determined  by  the  position  the  box  is 
to  occupy. 

The  box  shown  in  Figure  106  is  made  like  any  box 
except  that  its  bottom  is  set  between  the  sides  and 
ends  instead  of  being  nailed  to  the  edges  of  the  side 

84 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


85 


and  end  boards  (Fig.  107).  When  the  parts  have 
been  assembled,  cut  eight  brackets  by  the  pattern  of 
Figure  108,  and  nail  a  pair  of  them  to  each  corner 
as  shown  in  Figure  106. 

A  Liner  is  unnecessary  for  an  outdoor  box,  unless 
the  box  is  placed  where  leaking  water  might  stain 


Fig.  io6.  a  plant  box  for  window  or  balustrade 
Fig.  107.  cross-section  of  box 
Fig.  108.  pattern  for  corner  bracket 


the  building.  In  that  case,  it  is  best  to  take  the 
box  to  a  tinshop  and  have  a  liner  made  of  galvanized 
iron,  or,  if  you  know  how  to  solder,  you  can  do  the 
work  yourself.  The  upper  edges  of  the  liner  should 
be  bent  out  to  form  a  rim  that  will  lap  onto  the 
edges  of  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  box. 

When  a  liner  is  used,  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
give  the  plants  too  much  water,  unless  a  pet-cock  is 


86  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


soldered  to  the  bottom  of  the  liner  through  which 
to  draw  off  surplus  water;  because  standing  water 
in  a  tight  box  will  sour  and  harm  the  plant  roots. 

Drainage .  Some  florists  bore  holes  for  drainage 
in  wooden  boxes,  making  them  about  %  inch  in  di¬ 
ameter,  and  providing  one  for  every  8  square  inches 


Fig.  no  Fig.  109 


Fig.  109.  A  HANGING  PLANT  BOX 
Fig.  iio.  pattern  for  corner  bracket 


of  bottom  area.  Others  contend  that  they  are  un¬ 
necessary  as  the  box  will  take  care  of  surplus  water. 

Finishing.  Plant  boxes  may  be  stained  or  painted. 
Wood  stain  may  be  purchased  in  various  colors. 
Creosote  shingle  stain  is  good  for  the  purpose.  You 
can  make  up  a  stain  of  oil-paint  thinned  with  tur¬ 
pentine  and  boiled  linseed-oil.  If  you  paint  the 
boxes,  apply  two  coats.  White,  green  and  brown 
are  the  colors  generally  used  for  plant  boxes. 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


87 


A  HANGING  PLANT  BOX 

The  square  hanging  box  shown  in  Figure  109  is 
made  in  the  same  way  as  the  long  box,  but  the  corner 
brackets  are  a  trifle  larger.  Figure  110  is  a  pattern 
for  the  brackets. 

Screw  four  long  screw-eyes  into  the  top  edges  of 
the  box,  at  the  corners,  and  attach  lengths  of  jack- 
chain  to  them  for  hangers. 

A  PEDESTAL  BOX 

Omitting  the  chain  hangers,  the  hanging  box  be¬ 
comes  an  attractive  pedestal  box,  the  projecting 
corner  brackets  forming  feet  for  it  to  stand  on. 

A  TRELLIS 

The  fan-shaped  trellis  in  Figure  111  may  have  as 
many  fingers  as  you  wish.  The  fingers  are  all  part 
of  one  piece  of  board,  separated  by  three  dowel- 
sticks.  Figure  112  gives  dimensions  for  the  board 
required  for  a  four-finger  trellis  of  the  size  shown, 
also  the  location  for  holes  for  the  dowel-stick  separa¬ 
tors.  Use  dowel-sticks  %6  inch  in  diameter  for 
separators.  Bore  the  holes  through  the  piece,  edge¬ 
wise,  before  ripping  the  fingers  apart.  With  the 
fingers  separated  slip  separators  A,  B  and  C  through 
the  holes  (Fig.  113).  Pull  the  fingers  apart,  two  at 
a  time,  and  nail  them  to  separator  A,  first,  with  a 
distance  of  2  inches  separating  them  (Fig.  114), 
then  nail  them  to  separator  B  leaving  4%  inches  be- 


FlG.  III.  A  FAN-SHAPED  TRELLIS 

Fig.  i  12.  cut  a  strip  of  wood  like  this 
Fig.  i  13.  run  dowel-sticks  through  the  strip  like  this 
Fig.  1 14.  then  spread  the  fingers  and  fasten  them  to  the  dowels 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


89 


tween  the  fingers,  then  to  separator  0  leaving  5Y2 
inches  between.  With  careful  bending  and  nailing, 
you  will  find  the  work  of  assembling  easy. 

Finishing .  Either  stain  or  paint  the  trellis. 

A  RED-CROSS  WREN  HOUSE 

Birds  are  Nature’s  provision  for  the  destruction 
of  insects,  for  maintaining  the  balance  between  in¬ 
sects  hatched  and  insects  destroyed.  But  by  per¬ 
mitting  the  slaughter  of  certain  species  of  insectivo¬ 
rous  birds,  we  have  disturbed  this  balance  and  have 
brought  about,  as  a  consequence,  an  annual  loss  in 
plant  life.  We  cannot  bring  the  birds  back  in  num¬ 
bers  but  we  can  make  their  nesting  places  safer  so 
that  a  greater  percentage  of  their  young  may  sur¬ 
vive.  What  better  place  is  there  to  start  our  mis¬ 
sionary  work  for  the  birds  than  the  church  lawn? 
Let  us  erect  at  least  one  house  there,  a  hanging 
house  or  one  supported  on  a  pole. 

A  Cross  lends  itself  nicely  as  a  design  for  a  bird- 
house,  because  the  center  and  each  of  the  four  ex¬ 
tensions,  separated  by  partitions,  form  compart¬ 
ments  of  equal  size  (Fig.  115).  We  must  not  ex¬ 
pect  that  each  compartment  will  be  occupied,  for 
wrens  are  not  chummy  birds,  and  a  city  lot  is  not 
large  enough  for  more  than  one  family  at  a  time. 
But  the  wren  raises  two  broods  a  season,  sometimes 
three,  and  we  might  give  her  the  choice  of  five  com¬ 
partments. 

Cutting  the  Parts .  Figures  116  to  120  show  pat¬ 
terns  for  the  parts.  Eighteen  pieces  are  required 


90  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


for  the  cross,  and  dimensions  for  cutting  are  given 
on  the  diagrams.  It  is  best  to  prepare  all  parts  be¬ 
fore  beginning  to  assemble.  The  dimensions  have 
been  worked  out  for  wood  %-inch  thick.  If  your 


Fig.  1 15.  A  RED-CROSS  WREN  HOUSE 


material  is  of  different  thickness,  you  will  have  to 
alter  the  dimensions  of  the  pieces  which  overlap 
edges  of  other  pieces,  to  allow  for  the  difference. 
Care  must  be  used  in  marking  out  the  pieces,  and 
when  sawing  you  must  cut  a  trifle  outside  the  lines 
to  allow  for  smoothing  up  the  edges  with  a  plane. 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS  91 

Careful  preparation  will  simplify  the  work  of  as¬ 
sembling. 

Doorways.  There  will  be  less  danger  of  splitting 
the  wood,  if  you  will  bore  the  doorways  before  cut- 


 . - 

Ji 

4' 

i 

A  - 

- -  2  PIECES 

~ -  -  - - 

;  3" 

h - - |2§ - H 

Fig.  116 


k - 4" — >■ 

T 

1  I 

|l  E  1^  1 

6  PIECES 

‘1 

i 

a 

4-  PI  EC 

4f 

| 

4-PI 

'  I 

ECf  1 1 

jC 

4 

s 

1 

'I 

1 

±  “ 

I' 

JS  »  « 

..1.1 
«  1 

3" 

—  4  — 4  l< — 4^  ■ 


Fig.  iiB  Fig.  117  Fig.  120 


Fig.  1 19 

Figs.  116-120.  patterns  for  parts  of  the  red-cross  wren  house 

ting  the  pieces.  Doorways  for  wrens  should  be  %- 
inch  in  diameter.  This  is  plenty  big  enough,  and  it 
is  best  not  to  make  larger  openings  because  they  will 
permit  sparrows  to  enter.  Bore  a  ^-inch  hole 


92  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

through  the  center  of  each  piece  that  is  to  have  a 
doorway,  in  which  to  fasten  a  perch-stick,  then  lo¬ 
cate  the  center  of  the  doorway  1  inch  above  the 
center  of  the  perch-stick  hole. 

Assembling  the  Parts.  Use  1-inch  finishing-nails 
for  nailing  together  the  parts.  In  placing  and  driv¬ 
ing  the  nails,  bear  two  things  in  mind — to  place  them 
far  enough  from  the  corners  to  avoid  splitting  the 
edges,  and  to  drive  the  nails  straight  so  they  will  not 
break  through  the  side  surfaces  of  the  blocks. 

Assemble  the  two  side  extensions  of  the  cross, 
first,  as  shown  in  Figure  122.  Then  nail  vertical 
pieces  A  to  them  and  nail  a  pair  of  the  blocks  B  to 
the  ends  of  pieces  A.  This  will  give  you  the  frame¬ 
work  shown  in  Figure  121.  Be  careful  to  locate  the 
side  extensions  of  the  cross  in  the  exact  center  of 
the  length  of  pieces  A;  also,  to  get  all  corners  square. 

The  back  of  the  house  is  enclosed  by  one  of  the 
long  pieces  D  (Fig.  124),  and  two  of  the  short  pieces 
E  (Fig.  126).  Their  positions  are  indicated  in  Fig¬ 
ure  121.  The  two  remaining  blocks  E  (Fig.  125) 
enclose  the  front  of  the  top  and  bottom  compart¬ 
ments  (Fig.  121).  The  remaining  long  piece  D 
encloses  the  front  of  the  center  and  side  extension 
compartments  (Fig.  123).  To  this  piece  are  attached 
two  of  the  blocks  C,  to  partition  off  the  top  and  bot¬ 
tom  compartments  from  the  center  one.  Screw  this 
piece  in  place  so  that  you  can  remove  it  easily  in  the 
Spring  to  clear  out  the  old  nests. 

Finishing.  As  a  wood  preservative,  give  the  in¬ 
side  of  the  compartments  a  coat  of  paint.  Paint  the 
outside  of  the  cross  with  two  coats  of  red  paint. 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


93 


Fig.  125 


Fig.  123 


Figs.  121-126.  diagrams  showing  assembling  of  wren  house 


94  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


After  the  first  coat  has  dried,  putty  all  joints  and 
nail-holes. 

Hangers.  Drive  a  screw-eye  into  each  side  of  the 
top  compartment,  and  attach  wire  hangers.  You 
may  hang  the  wren  house  from  a  branch  or  strap  it 
to  a  tree  trunk. 


ANOTHER  WREN  HOTJSE 

The  wren  house  illustrated  in  Figure  127  may  be 
hung  or  supported  upon  a  post. 

The  Parts .  Figure  128  shows  a  cross-section  of 
the  wren  house,  with  the  parts  lettered  the  same  as 
the  patterns  of  Figures  131  to  134.  Cut  end  pieces 
A  first.  Opposite  edges  must  be  symmetrical.  The 
most  accurate  way  of  laying  them  out  is  to  draw  a 
center-line  as  shown,  then  lay  out  one-half  of  the 
pattern  to  the  left  of  the  center-line,  trace  the  out¬ 
line  upon  a  piece  of  thin  paper,  turn  the  paper  over, 
and  trace  off  the  outline  to  the  right  of  the  center- 
line.  When  you  have  marked  out  the  end  correctly, 
tack  it  with  small  nails  to  the  board  out  of  which 
the  other  end  is  to  be  cut,  and  cut  the  two  pieces  at 
one  time.  Saw  carefully,  close  to  the  outline. 
Smooth  up  the  edges  with  a  plane  and  sandpaper. 
If  you  haven’t  a  bit  with  which  to  bore  the  doorway, 
cut  the  hole  with  your  jack-knife. 

Assembling.  Floor  board  C  (Fig.  128)  fits  be¬ 
tween  the  end  pieces ;  sides  B  fit  between  the  ends, 
and  their  top  and  bottom  edges  are  beveled  to  fit 
against  the  floor  and  roof  boards.  Nail  one  side 
board  in  place,  and  fasten  the  other  with  buttons  so 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


95 


Fig.  127.  ANOTHER  WREN  HOUSE 
Fig.  128.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  the  WREN  HOUSE 
Fig.  129.  A  BLUEBIRD  HOUSE 
Fig.  130.  A  WOODPECKER  HOUSE 


96  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


it  can  be  removed  for  cleaning  the  house.  Make  the 
buttons  out  of  tin  cut  from  a  can  (Fig.  135),  and 
pivot  to  the  edges  of  the  end  pieces  with  brads,  as 
shown  in  Figure  127.  To  keep  the  side  from  push¬ 
ing  in  too  far,  tack  a  pair  of  stop  strips  to  the  inner 
face  of  end  pieces  A  (F,  Fig.  128).  Roof  boards  D 
and  E  are  of  equal  length  (Fig.  134),  but  board  E  is 
narrower  to  allow  for  the  lapping  of  board  D. 

Hanger .  A  wire  hanger  can  be  run  through  holes 
bored  through  the  gables  of  the  house  (Fig.  127). 

A  BLUEBIRD  HOUSE 

The  bluebird  'house  shown  in  Figure  129  is  built 
like  the  wren  house  in  Figure  127,  but  its  entrance 
is  IV2  inches  in ’diameter.  You  can  locate  the  en¬ 
trance  either  in  one  side,  as  shown,  or  in  one  end. 

Spires  for  the  roof  may  be  whittled  out  of  sticks 
(Fig.  136),  or  handles  of  old  paint  brushes  «may  be 
used. 

A  Pipe  Support .  Bluebird  houses  should  be  sup¬ 
ported  on  fixed  brackets  or  posts,  so  they  will  .not 
swing.  Figure  129  shows  a  support  made  of  iron 
pipe  with  a  floor  flange  on  the  upper  end  that  is 
screwed  to  the  bottom  of  the  house.  If  you  can  get 
sand,  cement  and  stone,  set  the  pipe  in  concrete. 
Bluebird  houses  should  be  placed  between  6  and  10 
feet  above  the  ground. 

A  WOODPECKER  HOUSE 

A  woodpecker  house  must  correspond  as  nearly  as 
possible  to  the  favorite  hollow-tree-trunk  nesting 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


97 


Fig.  131 


Fig.  132 


Fig.  133 


Figs.  131-134.  patterns  for  parts  of  wren  and  bluebird  houses 
Fig.  135.  catch  for  removable  side  of  houses 
Fig.  136.  spire  for  bluebird  house 
Fig.  137.  pattern  for  front  and  back  of  woodpecker  house 


98  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


place  of  the  woodpecker  family;  therefore  it  must  be 
a  long  house.  Its  floor  must  be  16  inches  below  the 
doorway,  and  the  diameter  of  the  opening  must  be 
2%  inches. 


Fig.  138.  A  CONCRETE  BIRD  BATH 
Fig.  139.  FORM  FOR  CASTING  BIRD  BATH 


The  Parts.  Figure  137  shows  a  pattern  for  the 
front  and  back  walls.  Make  the  side  walls  7  inches 
wide.  I  am  going  to  let  you  work  out  the  sizes  for 
the  other  pieces.  The  floor  should  he  fitted  between 
the  walls,  and  be  held  with  screws  so  it  can  be  re¬ 
moved  for  Spring  house-cleaning. 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


99 


A  CONCRETE  BIRD  BATH 

Making  things  of  concrete  is  not  as  difficult  as  you 
may  think,  and  the  work  is  lots  of  fun.  The  bird 


Fig.  140 


Fig.  142 


Fig.  140.  side  of  form 

Fig.  141.  FORM  WITH  TIN  BASIN  IN  POSITION  FOR  CASTING  BATH 
Fig.  142.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  form  with  concrete  poured 


bath  in  Figure  138  is  one  of  the  simplest  pieces  that 
you  can  cast.  This  bath  is  designed  to  be  set  into 
the  ground.  Wouldn’t  one  look  well  on  the  church 
lawn?  You  can  purchase  cement,  sand  and  stone  at 


100  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


almost  any  lumber  yard;  and  when  only  a  small 
quantity  is  desired  it  is  often  possible  to  obtain  it 
from  a  building  contractor  in  the  neighborhood. 
Boards  are  needed  for  forms  to  cast  the  concrete  in 
and  usually  you  can  pick  up  what  is  needed  close  at 
hand.  Old  boards  will  do,  provided  one  face  is  good 
enough  to  present  a  good  casting  surface.  Box 
boards,  except  end  pieces,  are  not  thick  enough  for 
the  purpose. 

The  Form  for  casting  the  bath  is  shown  in  Figure 
139.  By  lapping  the  ends  of  the  boards  in  the  man¬ 
ner  shown,  you  can  cut  the  four  pieces  of  equal 
length.  The  nails  will  be  driven  through  only  one 
end  of  each  board  (Figs.  139  and  140). 

The  basin  of  the  bath  is  formed  over  a  wash-basin 
(Fig.  141).  As  the  basin  will  not  be  injured,  one 
can  be  borrowed  for  the  work.  If  you  use  a  basin 
that  measures  12  inches  across,  14  inches  will  be 
large  enough  for  the  inside  of  the  form. 

The  Mixture .  The  correct  mixture  for  the  con¬ 
crete  is  1  part  of  cement  to  3  parts  of  sand,  to  5  parts 
of  stone.  Mix  the  sand  and  cement  together,  first, 
then  add  the  stone  and  mix  it  thoroughly,  after 
which,  add  enough  water  to  make  a  fairly  sloppy 
mixture. 

Casting .  Spread  a  newspaper  upon  a  cement  sur¬ 
face,  throw  sand  in  the  center,  and  invert  the  basin 
over  the  sand.  The  sand  should  fill  the  basin  to  keep 
it  from  denting  under  the  weight  of  the  concrete. 
Center  the  form  over  the  basin  (Fig.  141).  Then 
shovel  the  concrete  into  the  form  and  tamp  it  down 
around  the  basin.  Slip  a  knife  around  the  edges  of 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


101 


the  form  to  let  the  thin  cement  grout  run  down  and 
coat  the  sides  of  the  casting.  Smooth  oft  the  con¬ 
crete  even  with  the  top  of  the  form,  and  allow  it  to 
set  for  a  couple  of  days  before  disturbing. 

Be  careful  not  to  break  the  green  concrete,  in  re¬ 
moving  the  form  boards.  If  there  are  any  holes  in 
the  casting,  mix  enough  sand  and  cement  with  water 
to  point  up  the  surface. 

A  PEDESTAL  BIRD  BATH 

The  pedestal  bath  shown  in  Figure  143  will  give 
birds  protection  from  cats,  and  it  is  more  ornamen¬ 
tal  for  the  lawn  than  the  bath  just  described. 

The  pedestal  is  quite  as  simple  to  cast  as  the  basin. 
There  must  be  a  concrete  footing  30  to  36  inches 
deep  to  support  the  base.  On  top  of  the  base  the 
pedestal  is  cast,  and  on  the  pedestal  the  basin.  Fig¬ 
ure  144  shows  a  cross-section  of  the  basin,  pedestal 
and  base. 

The  Footing  requires  no  form.  Dig  a  hole  with  a 
post-hole  auger,  if  you  can  borrow  one.  Fill  it  with 
concrete  to  within  2  inches  of  the  surface.  Drive  a 
piece  of  pipe  or  iron  rod  into  the  concrete  for  a  tie- 
rod. 

The  Base  must  have  a  form  of  the  shape  shown  in 
Figure  145.  Cast  it  in  place  over  the  footing,  if  you 
can ;  if  not,  cast  a  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  block  to 
receive  the  footing  tie-rod.  Drive  a  short  piece  of 
pipe  or  rod  into  the  block  to  tie  the  base  and  pedestal 
together. 

The  Pedestal  Form  is  a  square  box  built  as  shown 


102  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


in  Figure  146.  Notice  that  the  sides  are  made  of 
boards  of  equal  width,  with  one  edge  of  each  board 
overlapping  the  edge  of  one  adjacent  board.  You 
will  see  by  Figure  143  that  there  is  a  square  cham 
fer  in  each  corner  of  the  pedestal.  These  are  pro- 


Fig.  143  Fig.  144 

Fig.  143.  A  PEDESTAL  BIRD  RATH 
Fig.  144.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  bird  bath  pedestal  and  footing 

vided  for  in  the  form  by  fastening  pieces  2  inches 
square  in  the  corners,  as  shown  in  Figures  146  and 
147.  One  side  of  the  box  is  shown  broken  away  so 
the  position  of  the  corner  posts  may  be  seen.  It  is 
best  to  drive  the  nails  that  hold  the  sides  of  the 
form  only  part  way  in,  so  the  nail  heads  can  be 
gripped  with  the  hammer  for  withdrawing,  after 


FOR  THE  CHURCH  GROUNDS 


103 


the  casting  has  set.  This  will  save  prying  the  boards 
apart,  which  is  hard  to  do  without  damaging  the  con¬ 
crete  surfaces. 

Casting .  Unless  great  care  is  taken  in  pouring 
the  concrete  in  the  form  for  the  pedestal,  the  sur- 


FlG.  146.  FORM  FOR  PEDESTAL 
Fig.  147.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  form  and  post 


faces  will  be  full  of  holes,  the  stone  of  the  mixture 
will  be  exposed,  and  the  edges  will  not  be  sharply 
defined.  The  grout  should  be  allowed  to  run  down 
the  sides  of  the  form  to  fill  all  interstices.  This  is 
best  done  by  pouring  a  small  quantity  of  the  mixture 
at  a  time,  and  working  this  down  around  the  edges 
and  tamping  it. 


104  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


The  Basin  is  cast  in  the  same  size  form  as  that 
used  for  the  bird  bath  shown  in  Figure  138.  In  the 
center  of  the  bottom  of  the  block,  a  piece  of  iron  pipe 
should  be  cast,  by  which  to  anchor  the  basin  to  the 
pedestal.  Set  the  basin  in  place  upon  the  pedestal 
as  soon  as  you  have  poured  the  concrete  in  the 
pedestal  form  and  tamped  it. 


Chapter  VIII 

BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS 
AND  CASES 

A  Book-Trough — Book-Ends — A  Wall-Rack — A  Rack  for  Dodg¬ 
ers,  Programs  or  Mail — A  Magazine-Rack — A  Thomas 
Bailey  Aldrich  Bookrack — Another  Form  of  Bookrack-— A 
Bookcase  with  a  Curtained  Front. 

The  requirements  of  Sunday  schools  for  the  care 
of  books  are  varied,  so  an  assortment  of  designs  is 
presented  in  this  chapter.  The  small  troughs,  ends 
and  racks  are  intended  for  table  use,  the  bookracks 
and  bookcases  for  the  school  library.  Other  de¬ 
signs  will  be  found  in  4 4 Home  Handicraft  for  Boys.” 

A  BOOK-TROUGH 

A  book-trough  like  that  shown  in  Figure  148  can 
be  of  any  length  you  wish  to  make  it,  but  10  inches 
between  ends  will  accommodate  half  a  dozen  books, 
and  is  the  usual  length  of  a  small  trough. 

Figure  149  shows  an  end  view  of  the  rack,  with 
the  ends  marked  C,  and  the  rack  members  marked 
A  and  B.  Figures  150  and  151  are  patterns  of  parts 
A  and  B,  and  Figure  152  of  end  C.  Hotted  lines  in 
Figure  149  indicate  how  A  overlaps  the  edge  of  B ; 

also,  the  position  of  the  two  in  relation  to  end  pieces 

105 


106  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


C.  Nail  the  parts  together  with  finishing-nails  1 *4 
inches  long. 

A  Decorative  Design  on  the  trough  ends,  like  that 
shown  in  Figure  152,  may  be  punched  into  the  wood 


with  the  point  of  a  nail  or  a  nail-set,  after  you  have 
laid  it  out  carefully  with  a  pencil  and  ruler.  You 
will  find  it  easy  to  apply  the  given  design. 

Enameling .  There  are  a  number  of  ways  to  finish  t 
the  wood  of  the  trough.  One  good  way  is  to  use 
bright  enamel.  Enamel  paint  can  be  purchased  at 
the  paint  store  in  2-oz.  cans,  which  is  a  sufficient 
quantity.  An  attractive  combination  of  colors  for 
the  trough  is  blue  with  the  pattern  done  in  red. 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  107 


BOOK-ENDS 

The  book-ends  shown  in  Figure  153  are  made  of 


Fig.  152 


Fig.  149.  ASSEMBLE  THE  PARTS  IN  THIS  WAY 
Figs.  150  and  151.  patterns  of  rack  strips 

Fig.  152.  PATTERN  OF  END  BLOCKS 


galvanized  iron.  A  pattern  for  cutting  the  pieces 
is  shown  in  Figure  154.  If  you  have  a  pair  of  tin- 


108  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


snips,  yon  can  cut  them  yourself ;  if  not,  make  a  card¬ 
board  pattern,  take  it  to  a  tinsmith,  and  ask  him  to 
cut  pieces  like  it.  When  the  pieces  are  cut,  bend 
them  where  indicated.  The  bends  must  be  at  right 
angles.  Test  them  with  a  square.  Smooth  the  edges 
with  a  file. 

Finishing.  To  finish  the  book-ends,  first  describe 
a  circle  3%  inches  in  diameter  upon  the  outside  face, 
and  lay  out  a  conventional  design  within  the  circle 
similar  to  that  shown  in  Figure  156.  Use  enamel 
paint  in  several  colors  for  decorating.  A  good  com¬ 
bination  is  dark  blue  for  the  body  of  the  book-ends, 
black  for  the  design  background,  and  yellow  and  red 
for  the  flower  petals.  To  keep  the  metal  bases  from 


FlG.  153.  A  PAIR  OF  BOOK-ENDS 

scratching  the  surfaces  they  are  placed  upon,  cover 
them  with  felt  or  broadcloth,  gluing  this  to  the  metal. 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  109 


Fig.  156  Fig.  155 


Fig.  154.  PATTERN  FOR  CUTTING  THE  METAL  BOOK-ENDS 
FlG.  155.  BEND  THEM  LIKE  THIS 
Fig.  156.  A  SUGGESTION  FOR  DECORATION 


no  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  WALL-RACK 

The  rack  shown  in  Figure  157  is  not  as  elaborate 
to  make  as  you  might  imagine.  The  back  is  con¬ 
structed  of  l-by-2  strips,  and  consists  of  a  pair  of 


Fig.  157.  A  WALL-RACK 


uprights  (A,  Fig.  158),  two  horizontal  connecting 
bars  (B,  Fig.  159),  and  a  short  crosspiece  (C,  Fig. 
160).  As  you  will  see  by  the  diagrams  these  strips 

Fig.  160 


Fig.  161  Fig.  159  Fig-  l5$> 

Figs.  158-161.  details  of  parts  of  wall-rack 


are  notched^so  they  will  interlock  with  their  surfaces 
flush. 

The  rack  is  made  of  two  end  pieces  of  the  size  of 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  111 

D  (Fig.  161),  a  bottom  strip  of  the  width  of  the  end 
pieces  and  of  the  correct  length  to  fit  between  them 
(E,  Fig.  161),  and  two  face  strips  (F). 

After  assembling  the  rack,  and  applying  stain  or 
paint,  drive  screw-eyes  into  uprights  A  for  hanger 
chains  or  wall  hooks. 


Fig.  162.  A  RACK  FOR  DODGERS,  PROGRAMS,  OR  MAIL 


A  RACK  FOR  DODGERS,  PROGRAMS,  OR  MAIL 

Though  this  isn’t  for  books,  it  is  probably  best  in¬ 
cluded  with  the  bookracks.  It  is  a  good  holder  for 
dodgers  of  all  kinds  advertising  church  activities, 
programs  and  pamphlets  for  distribution,  and  for 
mail.  Several  of  these  racks  might  be  used  advan¬ 
tageously  in  various  departments  of  the  church. 

The  completed  rack  is  shown  in  Fig.  162.  Patterns 
for  the  back  (A),  sides  (B),  bottom  (C),  and  front 


112  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


strips  (D)  are  given  in  Figures  163  to  166.  Wood 
%-inch  thick  is  best  for  a  rack  of  this  size.  Box 
boards  will  do.  There  is  not  much  work  to  cutting 


Fig.  165  Fig.  166 

Figs.  163-166.  patterns  for  parts  of  rack  for  dodgers 


out  the  parts,  and  Figure  162,  shows  how  to  assemble 
them. 

Stain ,  Paint  or  Enamel  the  rack,  after  sandpaper¬ 
ing  all  surfaces  and  edges  with  No.  00  sandpaper, 
then  screw  a  pair  of  screw-eyes  into  the  top  of  the 
back  board  for  hangers. 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  113 


A  MAGAZINE-RACK 

If  the  church  has  a  reading-room,  there  should  be 
a  rack  like  that  shown  in  Figure  167  for  current 
periodicals,  because  it  displays  them  so  that  all  titles 
are  visible.  The  rack  illustrated  will  probably  care 


FlG.  167.  A  MAGAZINE-RACK  FOR  THE  READING-ROOM 

for  all  of  the  magazines  that  will  be  subscribed  to  by 
the  librarian,  but  the  plan  is  elastic  and  either  a 
larger  or  a  smaller  rack  may  be  built,  according  to 
requirements.  For  a  small  number  of  periodicals, 
a  small  rack  can  be  built  to  stand  upon  a  table  or 
hang  upon  a  wall. 

Material .  The  rack  can  be  built  of  pine,  cypress, 


114  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


redwood,  oak,  or  any  other  wood  desired.  The  furni¬ 
ture  of  the  room  in  which  it  is  to  be  used  should  be 
a  factor  in  deciding  the  kind  of  wood,  though  it  is 
possible  to  stain  pine  in  imitation  of  other  woods, 
with  prepared  wood-stain  to  be  had  at  paint  stores. 


Fig.  1 68 


Fig.  168.  cross-section  of  magazine-rack 

Fig.  169:  FRONT  ELEVATION  OF  MAGAZINE-RACK 


The  Parts  are  lettered  in  the  cross-section  draw¬ 
ing  of  Figure  168,  and  the  front  elevation  of  Figure 
169.  Cut  end  stringers  A  from  %-inch  or  %-inch 
boards  6  inches  wide.  Rip  a  piece  of  the  same  width 
in  half  for  the  upright  supports  B.  Partitions  D 
should  be  of  thinner  stock — %-inch  boards  8  inches 
wide,  if  you  can  get  them.  For  the  partition  sepa¬ 
rators  E  (Fig.  168)  use  strips  %-inch  square.  Cut 
the  base  braces  C  and  F  from  a  2-by-4. 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  115 

Lay  out  an  end  stringer  carefully  by  the  detail  of 
Figure  170,  cut  it  out  and  use  it  for  a  pattern  to 
mark  around  for  the  second  piece.  The  base  brace 
blocks  C  have  notched  ends  (Fig.  171).  The  way  to 
mark  the  cuts  correctly  is  to  place  the  piece  of  2-by- 
4  against  the  stringer  end  and  upright  B,  and  scribe 
lines  across  the  piece  at  the  points  of  contact.  Par¬ 
titions  D  may  be  7%  inches  wide,  or  of  whatever 


Fig.  170.  DETAIL  OF  STRINGERS  FOR  MAGAZINE-RACK 
Fig.  1 71.  DETAIL  OF  BASE  BRACES 

width  your  8-inch  boards  happen  to  be.  The  length 
is  indicated  in  Figure  169. 

Assembling .  The  easiest  way  to  assemble  the 
partitions  and  stringers  is  to  nail  a  partition  board 
to  each  of  the  separator  strips  E,  then  to  scribe 
a  line  on  the  back  of  each  board,  from  end  to  end,  4 
inches  above  the  bottom  edge  (Fig.  168),  which  will 
give  the  height  at  which  to  fasten  each  partition 
board  to  the  separator  strip  back  of  it.  When  you 
have  carefully  assembled  the  partitions  in  this  man¬ 
ner,  stand  them  on  end  upon  one  stringer,  then  upon 


116  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


the  other  stringer,  mark  off  accurately  where  the 
ends  should  come  in  relation  to  the  edges  of  the 
stringers,  and  nail  the  stringers  to  them.  Of  course, 
if  you  do  not  locate  the  ends  exactly  on  each  stringer, 
there  will  be  a  twist  to  the  rack  and  you  will  have  to 
knock  off  one  stringer  and  renail  it. 

Complete  the  assembling  by  fastening  uprights  B 
to  the  under  edge  of  stringers  A,  fastening  base 
braces  C  to  the  lower  ends  of  stringers  A  and  up¬ 
rights  B,  and  fastening  brace  F  between  base  braces 
C. 

Finish  the  magazine-rack  in  whatever  way  the 
librarian  suggests.  Before  you  apply  the  stain,  paint 
or  shellac,  rub  down  all  surfaces  with  sandpaper.  It 
is  best  to  round  off  the  upper  edges  of  the  partitions 
to  relieve  them  of  sharpness.  This  can  be  done  with 
sandpaper. 

/ 

A  THOMAS  BAILEY  ALDRICH  BOOKRACK 

In  the  Nutter  House  at  Portsmouth,  New  Hamp¬ 
shire,  memorial  to  Thomas  Bailey  Aldrich,  hangs  a 
bookcase  which  was  one  of  this  noted  author’s  prized 
possessions.  The  bookcase  has  been  made  famous 
by  “The  Story  of  a  Bad  Boy.”  If  you  have  read 
this  book  you  will  remember  the  bookcase.  It  will  be 
an  appropriate  rack  for  the  Sunday  school  library, 
so  I  am  showing  an  illustration  of  it  in  Figure  172, 
and  in  Figures  173  to  176  working-drawings  made 
from  the  original  bookcase  through  the  courtesy  of 
Mrs.  Aldrich. 

Material .  This  bookcase  is  of  plain  design,  and 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  117 

its  construction  is  as  simple  as  it  looks.  All  of  its 
parts  are  butt- jointed.  White-pine  or  yellow-pine, 


Fig.  172.  A  THOMAS  BAILEY  ALDRICH  BOOKRACK 
THE  BOOKRACK  MADE  FAMOUS  BY  “THE  STORY  OF  A  BAD  BOY*’ 


whitewood,  cypress,  redwood,  oak,  chestnut,  gum- 
wood,  walnut  or  mahogany  are  woods  which  you  cart 


118  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

work  easily.  Five-eighths  inch  is  thick  enough.  A 
board  ripped  to  8%  inches  wide  will  he  needed  for 
the  end  pieces,  a  board  ripped  to  7  inches  wide  for 
two  shelves,  and  a  5-inch  piece  for  a  third  shelf. 
The  shelves  can  be  fastened  to  the  end  pieces  with 
finishing-nails,  or  round-head  screws.  Screws  are 
preferable,  because  they  hold  better  than  nails,  and 
their  round  heads  make  a  neat  appearance.  Number 
9  round-head  blued  screws  1%  inches  long  should  be 
used. 

The  Parts.  Figure  173  shows  an  end  view  of  the 
bookcase,  with  dimensions  for  assembling  the 
shelves.  The  end  pieces  (A)  are  the  first  pieces  to 
lay  out  (Fig.  173).  First,  mark  off  26  inches  for  the 
length.  Then  lay  off  the  starting  and  finishing 
points  of  the  curves.  Draw  the  curves  as  nearly  like 
those  upon  the  pattern  as  possible,  and  connect  with 
a  slightly  curved  line,  which  will  give  you  the  line 
for  the  front  edge  of  the  end  piece.  The  curve  is  so 
slight  that  it  is  a  good  plan  to  draw  a  straight  line 
as  indicated  in  Figure  173,  then  draw  the  curved  line 
inside  it. 

Cut  one  end  piece  and  smooth  up  its  edges  with  a 
plane  and  sandpaper,  then  use  this  as  a  pattern  to 
mark  around,  to  lay  out  the  second  piece. 

The  shelves  are  straight  pieces.  Straight  means 
absolutely  straight,  with  square  corners  and  edges. 
If  you  do  not  cut  them  correctly,  you  cannot  hope  to 
obtain  a  square  piece  of  work,  and  unless  the  ends 
of  the  shelf  boards  fit  squarely  against  the  end 
pieces,  there  will  be  no  shoulder  to  the  joints,  and 
consequently  no  rigidity. 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  119 


Fig.  174 


Fig.  173.  PATTERN  FOR  END  OF  RACK,  SHOWING  POSITIONS  OF  SHELVES 

Figs.  174-176.  patterns  for  shelves 


120  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Assembling .  When  all  parts  have  been  cut,  mark 
upon  the  end  pieces  the  positions  for  the  shelves,  as 
indicated  by  dotted  lines  in  Figure  173;  also,  posi- 


IS  AN  ELASTIC  DESIGN.  MORE  SHELVES  MAY 
BE  INCLUDED,  AND  FOR  VOLUMES  OF  THE 
SIZE  OF  NOVELS  8  J4  INCHES  IS  ENOUGH 
SPACE  TO  LEAVE  BETWEEN  SHELVES 


tions  for  three  screw-holes  for  each  shelf.  Drill  the 
screw-holes  a  trifle  larger  than  the  screws.  Then  the 
screws  will  draw  up  the  shelves  close  to  the  end 
pieces. 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  121 

Ha/ngers.  Note  the  hole  through  the  end  pieces 
near  the  top.  This  is  for  a  wire  or  rope  hanger,  to 
hang  the  bookcase  from  nails  or  from  a  picture¬ 
molding.  The  bookrack  can  be  supported  upon 
brackets,  instead,  or  can  be  stood  upon  the  floor. 

ANOTHER  FORM  OF  BOOKRACK 

Open-shelf  bookcases  or  bookracks,  like  the  one 
shown  in  Figure  177,  can  be  built  quickly,  require 
little  material,  and  can  have  as  many  shelves  as  are 
needed  to  take  care  of  the  school’s  library;  or  sev¬ 
eral  units  may  be  built  and  placed  side  by  side.  For 
books  of  the  dimensions  generally  used  for  novels, 
8%  inches  is  sufficient  space  to  leave  between 
shelves.  These  are  matters  for  your  librarian  to 
decide. 

Material  for  the  bookcase  in  Figure  177  can  be  any 
one  of  the  woods  suggested  for  the  other  bookrack. 
The  stock  should  be  %-inch  thick,  and  8  inches  is 
wide  enough  for  the  shelves.  Buy  No.  9  round-head, 
blued  screws,  1%  inches  long  for  assembling. 

Cutting  the  Parts  of  this  case  is  easy  because  all 
ends  are  straight.  The  dimensions  for  end  strips  A 
are  given  in  Figure  178,  the  length  for  shelves  B  is 
given  in  Figure  179. 

Assembling.  When  the  pieces  have  been  cut,  mark 
the  positions  for  the  shelves  on  the  end  strips.  Then 
mark  the  places  for  the  screws,  two  to  a  shelf,  and 
drill  holes  through  the  strips  at  these  points.  These 
holes  should  be  a  trifle  larger  than  the  shank  of  the 
screws.  It  will  be  easier  to  drive  home  the  screws  if 


122  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


you  first  drill  holes  in  the  ends  of  the  shelves.  These 
holes  should  be  smaller  than  the  screws. 

Without  a  back  to  make  this  bookcase  rigid,  it 


Figs.  178  and  179.  side  and  front  elevations  of  bookracic 


will  become  rickety  in  time,  unless  it  be  fastened  to 
a  wall,  Or  stood  in  a  corner  where  the  walls  will 
support  it.  If  neither  of  these  schemes  is  feasible, 


Fig.  180.  a  bookcase  with  a  curtained  front 

[ Facing  page  122 


1 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  123 

fasten  a  pair  of  diagonal  braces  across  the  back  as 
shown  in  Figure  177.  It  is  not  necessary  to  run 
these  higher  than  the  third  shelf.  Screw  them  to 
each  of  the  shelves  that  they  cross,  with  two  screws 
to  a  shelf. 

A  BOOKCASE  WITH  A  CURTAINED  FRONT 

For  dust-tight  bookcases,  nothing  comes  nearer 
to  perfection  than  the  so-called  sectional  bookcases 
of  approved  makes.  But  these  are  expensive  pieces 
of  equipment,  and  often  out  of  the  question.  Built-in 
cases  with  glass  doors  fitted  by  one  experienced  in 
cabinet-making  are  to  be  recommended  as  the  next  in 
order ;  home-made  cases  with  wallboard  paneled 
doors,  like  the  filing-cabinet  in  Figure  193,  Chapter 
IX,  though  probably  not  as  tight,  will  keep  out  most 
of  the  dust.  Then  there  is  the  type  of  open-front 
bookcase  with  rod  and  curtains,  not  tight  by  any 
means,  but  better  than  an  open-shelf  bookrack.  A 
bookcase  of  the  last  mentioned  type  is  shown  in  the 
photograph  of  Figure  180.  Working  details  of  its 
construction  are  shown  in  the  end  elevation  of  Fig¬ 
ure  181,  and  the  front  elevation  of  Figure  182. 

The  Material  used  for  the  bookcase  may  be  any 
of  the  kinds  of  wood  suggested  for  the  racks  previ¬ 
ously  described.  The  ends  of  the  case,  and  the 
shelves,  should  be  cut  from  10-inch  boards;  the  top 
of  the  case  should  be  cut  from  a  12-inch  board.  The 
back  of  the  case  should  be  enclosed.  A  large  sheet 
of  wallboard  is  better  than  boards  for  the  purpose. 

Cutting  the  Parts  and  Assembling  should  be  done 


124  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


as  described  for  the  bookracks.  Use  three  screws 
for  each  shelf-end.  When  the  ends,  shelves,  and 
top  have  been  assembled,  test  the  angles  to  make 


Fig.  181 


Fig.  182 


Fig.  181.  END  ELEVATION  OF  BOOKCASE  SHOWN  IN  PHOTOGRAPH  OF 

FIGURE  l80 

Fig.  182.  FRONT  ELEVATION 


sure  that  they  are  right  angles.  Then  glue  the  wall- 
board  backing  to  the  rear  edges  of  the  end  pieces 
and  shelves,  and  drive  in  nails  to  reenforce  the  glue. 
Finishing.  A  number  of  suggestions  have  been 


BOOK  TROUGHS,  ENDS,  RACKS  AND  CASES  125 

given  on  preceding  pages  for  finishing  wood.  The 
kind  of  finish  to  nse  should  be  determined  by  the 
furniture  of  the  room  in  which  the  article  is  to  be 
kept. 

If  you  are  going  to  stain  the  wood,  you  can  either 
buy  ready-prepared  stain  of  the  color  and  shade  de¬ 
sired  or  you  can  mix  up  a  home-made  stain  of  oil- 
paint,  boiled  linseed-oil,  and  turpentine.  After 
staining  a  surface  and  rubbing  oft  the  surplus  stain, 
apply  a  coat  of  shellac  to  set  it.  After  that  has 
dried,  apply  two  coats  of  flat  varnish  or  a  coat  of 
wax. 

Open-grained  woods,  such  as  oak,  are  generally 
‘ ‘ filled”;  that  is  to  say,  their  grain  is  filled  with  pre¬ 
pared  wood-filler.  This  is  necessary  for  a  highly 
polished  varnished  or  enameled  surface,  but  can  he 
omitted  from  surfaces  to  be  waxed. 

Surfaces  to  he  painted  should  be  given  at  least  two 
coats  of  paint;  three  coats  are  better.  If  enamel 
paint  is  to  he  used,  first  apply  a  coat  of  flat  paint — 
this  should  be  paint  without  linseed-oil.  If  there  is 
any  puttying  to  he  done,  do  it  after  the  first  coat  of 
paint  has  been  applied ;  it  will  hold  better  then. 


c 


Chapter  IX 

FILING-CASES  AND  CABINETS 

A  Letter-Size  Filing-Cabinet— ‘-A  Filing-Case — A  Cabinet  for 
Pamphlets  and  Pictures. 

Every  Sunday  school  needs  files  of  several  kinds 
in  which  to  keep  correspondence,  printing,  station¬ 
ery,  pamphlets,  lesson  pictures  and  various  papers 
related  to  its  activities.  Some  Sunday  schools  have 
filing-cabinets,  but  the  stock  sizes  of  filing  equipment 
do  not  answer  every  purpose,  so  the  filing  systems 
are  not  always  as  efficient  as  they  might  be.  On  this 
and  following  pages  are  several  plans  for  easily 
made  cases  and  cabinets  that  will  meet  many  needs 
of  the  school.  An  advantage  of  home-made  cabinets, 
besides  the  saving  in  cost,  is  that  the  given  dimen¬ 
sions  can  be  altered  if  need  be  to  meet  any  special 
requirements. 

A  LETTER-SIZE  FILING-CABINET 

The  filing-cabinet  in  Figure  183  is  made  of  a  box 
obtained  at  a  paint  store,  but  probably  you  can  get 
one  quite  as  strong  at  your  grocery.  The  inside 
measurements  of  the  cabinet  are:  width  12  inches, 
depth  10%  inches,  length  22%  inches.  The  length 
may  be  varied,  but  the  specified  width  and  depth 

should  be  used  because  they  are  standard  measure- 

126 


FlG.  183.  A  LETTER-SIZE  FILING-CABINET 

[  Facing  page  126 


FILING-CASES  AND  CABINETS  127 

ments,  and  index  cards  and  folders  can  be  bought 
to  fit. 


Fig.  1 88 


Fig.  187 


Fig.  184 


Fig.  184.  box  for  filing-cabinet 

Fig.  185.  READY  FOR  THE  HINGED  TOP 
Fig.  186.  THE  HINGED  TOP 
Fig.  187.  LEG  FOR  CABINET 

Fig.  188.  file  cards 


Altering  the  Box .  Probably  your  box  will  require 
alteration,  just  as  mine  did.  Dotted  lines  in  Figure 
184  indicate  how  my  box  was  cut.  The  desired  width 


< 


128  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

was  marked  off  on  the  box  ends,  then  the  ends 
were  cut  along  these  lines,  the  side  boards  removed 
were  renailed  to  the  altered  box  ends,  and  the 
bottom  boards  were  trimmed  flush  with  the  box 
side. 

The  pair  of  battens  A  upon  the  box  ends  must  be 
left  for  reenforcement.  Fit  strip  B  (Fig.  185)  be¬ 
tween  their  upper  ends,  and  strip  C  between  their 
lower  ends,  thus  forming  a  panel.  Strip  B  should 
be  wider  than  strips  A,  and  strip  C  should  be  nar¬ 
rower,  so  when  the  leg  strips  are  nailed  to  the  box 
corners,  and  a  strip  of  equal  width  is  fastened  be¬ 
tween  their  upper  ends,  the  exposed  margins  of 
strips  A,  B,  and  C  will  be  equal  (Fig.  183). 

The  Legs  are  built  up  of  two  strips  (D  and  E,  Fig. 
187).  These  may  be  laths  planed  smooth.  Cut  them 
26  or  28  inches  long  so  that  the  cabinet  will  stand 
about  desk  high.  Make  strip  E  narrower  than  strip 
D  to  allow  for  the  thickness  of  the  over-lapping 
edge. 

The  Cabinet  Top.  Strip  F,  nailed  across  the  back 
of  the  box  (Fig.  185)  is  the  hinge-strip  to  which  the 
cabinet  lid  is  hinged.  The  notches  on  the  inside 
edge  receive  the  hinges.  Cut  strip  F  4  inches  wide, 
and  of  the  right  length  to  project  %  inch  beyond  the 
faces  of  the  leg  strips.  Figure  186  shows  the  lid. 
It  can  be  made  of  several  boards,  depending  on  the 
width  of  the  material  at  hand.  Fasten  together  the 
boards  (G,  Fig.  186)  with  the  pair  of  battens  H, 
putting  on  the  battens  with  screws.  It  is  more  of  a 
trick  to  set  hinges  into  the  edges  of  work  than  to  put 
them  upon  the  surface.  The  notches  must  be  cut  ac- 


FILING-CASES  AND  CABINETS  129 

curately,  and  the  screw-holes  must  be  located  cor¬ 
rectly,  or  the  lid  will  not  shut  tight. 

Index  Cards.  Figure  188  shows  cards  of  standard 


Fig.  189 

Figs.  189  and  190.  a  filing-case 
Fig.  191.  saw  through  box  ends  on  lines  a 
Fig.  192.  the  smaller  part  of  the  box  becomes  the  cover 

size.  The  projecting  index  tabs  are  laid  out  in  five 
positions.  If  you  make  a  set  of  the  cards  for  your 
cabinet,  cut  five  of  each  position.  Cut  them  out  of 


130  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


light-weight  cardboard.  Letter  the  tabs  with  the  let¬ 
ters  of  the  alphabet,  or  with  subject  titles.  Keady- 
made  cards  can  be  bought  at  one  cent  each. 

Finishing.  When  the  tiling-cabinet  has  been  com¬ 
pleted,  stain  or  paint  the  wood.  Let  the  furniture 
of  the  room  in  which  the  cabinet  is  to  stand  decide 
the  finish. 


A  FILING-CASE 

The  filing-case  shown  in  Figures  189  and  190  is  of 
handy  form  for  the  filing  of  lesson  pictures.  It  can 
be  made  of  a  grocery  box  cut  down  to  the  exact  size 
needed. 

Saw  down  the  ends  of  the  box  on  a  diagonal  line, 
as  indicated  by  the  lines  A  in  Figure  191,  and  remove 
the  box  side  to  which  the  small  triangular  pieces  are 
attached.  This  will  give  you  the  two  parts  shown  in 
Fig.  192.  Nail  the  box-cover  boards  to  these  sec¬ 
tions,  in  their  original  positions,  and  hinge  the 
smaller  section  to  the  larger  one  in  the  manner 
shown  in  Figure  189,  for  the  lid. 

A  pair  of  handles  screwed  to  the  box  ends,  and  a 
couple  of  coats  of  paint,  will  finish  the  outside  of  the 
cabinet.  The  inside  may  be  partitioned  into  com¬ 
partments  with  wallboard. 

A  CABINET  FOR  PAMPHLETS  AND  PICTURES 

The  cabinet  shown  in  Figure  193  was  designed  as 
a  filing-case  for  pamphlets  and  pictures  with  the 
upper  portion  arranged  for  Sunday  school  lesson 


FILING-CASES  AND  CABINETS  131 

quarterlies,  and  the  lower  portion  for  lesson  pic¬ 
tures.  The  upper  compartments  will  hold  the  first, 


FlG.  193.  A  FILING-CABINET  FOR  PAMPHLETS  AND  PICTURES 


second  and  third  year  pamphlets  of  the  junior,  inter¬ 
mediate  and  senior  departmental  graded  courses, 


182  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


with  four  quarterly  pamphlets  filed  in  each  tier  of 
compartments.  As  the  beginners  and  primary  series 


Fig.  194  Fig.  195 


FIG.  I94.  FRONT  ELEVATION  OF  UNTRIMMED  CABINET 
FlG.  I95.  DETAIL  OF  GROOVED  END 

of  quarterlies  are  larger,  it  would  be  best  to  make  a 
separate  cabinet  for  them. 


FILING-CASES  AND  CABINETS 


133 


This  filing-cabinet  will  meet  the  needs  of  Sunday 
schools  that  find  it  economical  to  save  their  quarterly 
lesson  pamphlet  left-overs,  for  future  use.  The 
same  form  of  construction  may  be  used  for  a  cabinet 
for  other  pamphlets,  leaflets  and  single  sheets ;  and 
a  cabinet  for  the  primary  room  will  be  useful  for 
sand-table  accessories  and  other  lesson  helps. 

The  Construction.  The  pamphlet-picture  cabinet 
is  made  of  boards  and  wallboard.  Figure  194  shows 
a  front  elevation,  and  Figure  195  gives  dimensions 
for  end  boards  A.  Cut  vertical  partition  C  of  the 
same  width  as  sides  A,  but  make  partitions  E  %6 
inch  narrower,  to  allow  for  clearance  of  the  wall- 
board  door  panels.  Instead  of  resting  the  ends 
of  the  short  wallboard  shelves  F  (Fig.  194)  upon 
cleats,  which  would  take  up  a  great  deal  of  valuable 
filing  space,  groove  end  boards  A,  and  the  interme¬ 
diate  vertical  partitions  C  and  E,  to  receive  the  shelf 
ends,  as  shown  in  Figure  196.  The  spacing  of  the 
grooves  is  marked  in  Figure  195.  Make  their  width 
such  that  the  wallboard  shelves  will  fit  snugly  in 
them,  and  cut  them  %  inch  deep.  Cut  the  sides  of 
the  grooves  with  a  saw,  and  split  out  the  wood  be¬ 
tween  the  “kerfs,”  or  slots,  with  a  ^-inch  chisel. 
Mark  out  and  cut  the  grooves  carefully. 

Assembling.  From  Figures  194  and  195  you  can 
get  the  lengths  for  boards  B  and  D,  and  vertical 
boards  C  and  E.  Assemble  these  pieces  and  side 
pieces  A  as  shown  in  Figure  194,  then  cut  a  piece  of 
wallboard  of  the  right  size  for  a  back,  and  tack  it  to 
the  framework.  Before  fastening  the  back,  test  all 
corners  of  the  framework  to  make  sure  that  they  are 


134  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


square.  Next,  cut  shelves  F  of  the  same  width  as 
vertical  partitions  E,  coat  their  ends  and  rear  edge 
with  glue,  and  slip  them  into  the  grooves  cut  for 
them.  If  the  vertical  boards  have  been  spaced  equi- 
distantly,  the  shelves  can  be  cut  of  exactly  the  same 
size.  Fasten  blocks  Gr  to  the  under  side  of  bottom 
shelf  B  to  make  the  base  solid.  If  the  cabinet  is  to 


Fig.  196  Fig.  198  Fig.  200  Fig.  199 


Fig.  196.  groove  the  partitions  to  receive  the  wallboard  shelf 

ENDS 

Fig.  197.  door  with  wallboard  panel 
Fig.  198.  use  three  hinges  like  this  for  each  door 
Fig.  199.  CUPBOARD  LATCH  and  latch-pocket 
Fig.  200.  CUPBOARD  catch  and  plate 


be  mounted  upon  casters,  fasten  these  to  the  outer 
two  of  the  three  blocks. 

The  Front.  Figure  193  shows  how  to  complete  the 
cabinet  with  a  narrow  strip  nailed  across  the  front 
and  ends  of  the  base,  and  a  cap  band  nailed  across 
the  front  and  ends  of  the  top.  Fasten  a  3-inch  board 
across  the  front  of  the  cabinet  at  the  top  of  the  bot¬ 
tom  compartments,  and  enclose  the  space  between  it 
and  the  baseboard  with  a  narrow  and  a  wide  board, 


FILING-CASES  AND  CABINETS 


135 


nailing  the  narrow  board,  and  hinging  the  wide 
board  to  it  for  a  drop-leaf. 

The  Cabinet  Doors  have  frames  made  of  2-inch 
strips,  and  wallboard  panels  (Fig.  197).  Tack  the 
panels  to  the  frames  with  carpet  tacks. 

Use  three  pairs  of  2-inch  brass  hinges  (Fig.  198) 
for  hinging  the  cabinet  doors,  and  place  them  on  the 
edges  of  the  frames,  and  sides  of  the  cabinet,  as 
shown  in  Figure  193.  Cut  away  the  wood  so  the 
hinge  flaps  will  set  flush  with  the  surface  of  the 
wood.  Fasten  a  cupboard  latch  and  a  latch-pocket 
(Fig.  199)  upon  the  right-hand  door,  and  tack  a 
molding  to  the  door,  above  and  below  the  latch,  al¬ 
lowing  it  to  project  enough  to  cover  the  crack  be¬ 
tween  the  doors  when  they  are  shut.  Fasten  a  cup¬ 
board  catch  of  the  form  shown  in  Figure  200  to  the 
inner  face  of  the  left-hand  door.  Attach  a  cupboard 
latch  and  latch-pocket  to  the  drop-leaf  of  the  lower 
compartments. 

Finishing.  When  the  cabinet  has  been  completed, 
paint  the  outside  with  two  coats  of  paint.  The  wall- 
board  will  require  a  third  coat.  The  inside  of  the 
cabinet,  with  the  exception  of  the  front  edges  of  the 
wooden  partitions,  need  not  be  finished. 


Chapter  X 

SCRAPBOOKS 

A  Home-Made  Scrapbook — Covers — Leaves — Punching — Lacing 
— Screw-Posts — Arranging  Clippings — Indexing — An  Envel¬ 
ope  Scrap-File. 

Keeping*  a  scrapbook  becomes  a  bobby  that  usually 
lasts  through  one’s  lifetime;  and  it  is  a  worth-while 
hobby,  too,  giving  one  a  record  of  favorite  pictures, 
verse,  anecdotes,  and  miscellany  which  will  be  pe¬ 
rused  with  pleasure  in  later  years. 

The  scrapbook  has  its  practical  use  in  the  church 
and  Sunday  school  also.  Your  minister  will  find  one 
convenient  to  hold  selections  he  has  clipped  for  ref¬ 
erence;  there  should  be  one  in  which  to  paste  pro¬ 
grams,  dodgers,  tickets  and  other  printed  matter  for 
a  record  of  church  and  Sunday  school  activities,  and 
your  class  should  have  one  for  its  own  use. 

A  HOME-MADE  SCRAPBOOK 

Figure  201  shows  a  good  home-made  scrapbook. 

Covers  for  a  scrapbook  can  be  made  of  heavy  card¬ 
board  cut  from  drygoods  boxes,  but  a  sheet  of  wall- 
board  or  of  binder’s  board  will  be  better. 

A  detail  of  the  front  cover  is  shown  in  Figure  202. 

After  cutting  it  of  the  right  size,  cut  a  strip  1  inch 

wide  from  the  binding-edge,  and  then  with  a  piece  of 

136 


SCRAPBOOKS 


137 


drilling  3%  inches  wide  hinge  the  strip  to  the  edge 
you  cut  it  from.  Coat  the  hinge-strip  with  glue,  and 
fold  it  over  the  strip  of  cardboard  so  its  edges  w7ill 
lap  over  the  upper  and  lower  surfaces  of  the  cover, 
as  shown.  It  is  not  necessary  to  make  a  hinge  for 
the  back  cover ;  in  fact,  the  book  will  be  stronger  if 

Fig.  202  Fig.  204  Fig.  205 


Fig.  201 


Fig.  203 


Fig.  201.  A  SCRAPBOOK  WITH  COVERS  LACED  WITH  A  SHOE-STRING 
Fig.  202.  FRONT  COVER  AND  STUB  FOR  BINDING-EDGE 
Fig.  203.  ARRANGEMENT  OF  SCRAPS  ON  THE  PAGES 
Fig.  204.  AN  INDEX  SHEET 
Fig.  205.  TAB  FOR  INDEX 


the  back  cover  is  not  hinged.  Cloth  tips  should  be 
glued  upon  the  cover  corners  as  shown  in  Figures 
206  and  207. 

Punch  three  holes  through  the  back  cover  and  the 
hinged  strip  of  the  front  cover,  one  near  each  end 
and  one  at  the  center,  cutting  them  with  the  small 
blade  of  a  knife.  These  are  for  laces  or  posts  to  run 
through. 


138  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT* 

The  Leaves  should  be  of  manila.  wrapping-paper. 
You  can  purchase  this  from  a  merchant  in  town,  or 
through  a  printer.  The  size  of  the  scrapbook  pages 
should  be  regulated,  to  a  certain  extent,  by  the  size 
of  sheets  of  paper  you  buy,  to  save  waste  in  cutting. 
You  can  cut  the  sheets  with  a  knife  or  scissors,  or 
have  a  printer  cut  them.  The  covers  should  be  large 


Fig.  208 


Fig.  207  Fig.  206 


Fig.  206.  A  SCRAPBOOK  WITH  COVERS  HELD  BY  SCREW-POSTS 
Fig.  207.  DETAIL  OF  TIP  ON  COVER  CORNERS 
Fig.  208.  TELESCOPIC  SCREW-POST 
Fig.  209.  STOVE-BOLT  POST 


enough  to  project  %  inch  over  the  leaves.  Unless 
the  cardboard  is  heavy,  it  will  be  best  not  to  make  a 
large  book,  because  large  pieces  of  light-weight  card¬ 
board  will  warp. 

Punching.  If  you  haven’t  a  punch,  place  the 
leaves  between  the  covers  in  their  correct  position, 
clamp  all  together  with  curtain-stretcher  clamps, 
and  drill  holes  through  them  with  a  3/16-inch  drill. 
You  can  ask  a  printer  to  punch  the  holes,  if  you  do 
not  care  to  drill  them. 


SCRAPBOOKS 


139 


Lacing.  You  may  bind  the  covers  and  leaves  of 
your  scrapbook  with  a  shoe-string  (Fig.  201).  Eun 
it  down  through  the  center  holes,  along  the  outside 
of  the  back  cover  to  one  end,  up  through  the  holes  at 
that  end,  along  the  front  cover  to  the  holes  at  the 
other  end,  down  through  these  holes,  along  the  back 
cover  to  the  center  holes,  up  through  them,  and  tie 
the  ends  in  a  bowknot. 

Screw-posts  will  hold  the  covers  and  leaves  more 
firmly  than  a  lacing.  Figure  208  shows  a  telescopic 
post  made  for  the  purpose;  Figure  209  shows  a 
stove-bolt  post. 

ARRANGING  CLIPPINGS 

Figure  203  suggests  how  to  arrange  clippings  on 
a  scrapbook  page.  If  an  article  occupies  both  sides 
of  a  clipping,  paste  it  along  one  margin,  as  shown. 

INDEXING 

You  may  not  care  about  indexing  your  pages,  but, 
if  you  do,  Figures  204  and  205  show  how  to  do  it 
with  tabs  of  heavy  paper,  lapping  and  pasting  these 
to  both  sides  of  the  sheets. 

AN  ENVELOPE  SCRAP-FILE 

An  envelope  filing  system  like  that  shown  in  Fig¬ 
ures  210  and  211  is  good.  Some  use  it  in  place  of  a 
scrapbook.  You  might  make  one  for  your  minister 
to  keep  copies  of  his  sermons,  notes,  and  miscellany 

in. 


140  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Buy  a  quire  of  envelopes  9,  10,  or  11  inches  long, 
punch  three  holes  through  the  pack  along  the  bottom 
edge,  to  run  a  binding  lacing  through,  and  use  a 


Fig.  210 


Fig.  21 1 

Figs.  210  and  21  i.  an  envelope  scrap-file 


shoe-string  for  a  lacing,  running  it  through  the  holes 
in  the  manner  described  for  the  scrapbook. 

The  illustrations  suggest  covers.  If  you  wish  to 


SCRAPBOOKS 


141 


add  these,  cut  them  out  of  cardboard,  making  them 
%  inch  larger  than  the  envelopes  all  around,  and 
bind  them  with  linen  or  buckram.  Fasten  a  small 
buckle  and  strap  to  the  opening  edges  of  the  covers. 

Letter  classifications  upon  the  envelope  flaps,  or 
rule  lines  for  the  captions,  if  the  file  is  for  your  min¬ 
ister’s  use. 


Chapter  XI 

FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS 


A  Class  Table — A  Pedestal — A  Class  Gavel — A  Class  Screen — 
A  Chair  Hat-Rack. 

On  the  following  pages  are  a  number  of  pieces  of 
equipment  especially  useful  to  the  Sunday  school 
class.  Additional  ideas  are  presented  in  other  chap¬ 
ters.  If  you  will  make  some  of  these  things,  you  will 
start  a  rivalry  in  the  Sunday  school,  with  each  class 
vying  with  the  others  to  become  the  best  equipped. 

A  CLASS  TABLE 

There  is  often  a  scarcity  of  small  tables  in  the 
Sunday  school  room.  Each  class  could  use  one,  and 
I  would  suggest  that  if  your  class  is  without  this 
piece  of  equipment,  you  make  a  small  table  like  that 
shown  in  Figure  212.  This  one  has  a  box  compart¬ 
ment  in  its  top  that  can  be  used  for  record  books, 
gavel,  pencil,  pen,  ink,  lesson  leaflets,  pictures, 
maps  and  other  class  material. 

The  Box  Compartment  is  made  of  a  box  10  inches 
deep,  14  inches  wide  and  20  inches  long.  Remove 
one  side,  and  nail  the  cover  boards,  or  other  boards, 
to  the  top  (Fig.  213).  Nail  strips  A  and  B  to  the 

142 


FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS 


143 


bottom  and  end  boards,  as  shown  in  Figure  213,  to 
frame  the  opening  for  the  hinged  drop-leaf. 

The  Drop-leaf  should  be  one  piece  of  board.  Buy 
a  pair  of  2-inch  brass  or  iron  hinges,  and  attach  them 
as  shown  in  Figures  215  and  216,  setting  them  in  the 


Fig.  212.  A  CLASS  TABLE 


edge  of  the  drop-leaf  board,  and  in  the  upper  surface 
of  strip  A.  A  cupboard  spring-latch  at  the  top  of 
the  drop-leaf,  and  pieces  of  brass  chain  attached  to 
the  drop-leaf  and  the  box  ends,  to  keep  the  leaf  from 
opening  farther  than  it  should,  will  complete  the 
box  compartment. 

The  Legs  are  built  up  of  lattice-strips  1%  inches 
wide  and  27  inches  long.  Each  leg  is  made  of  a 


Fig.  213 

Figs.  213-216.  details  of  the  class  table 


FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS 


145 


strip  of  full  width  (C,  Fig,  214),  and  a  strip  cut  % 
inch  narrower  (D),  the  former  strip  overlapping  an 
edge  of  the  latter.  Nail  the  corner  strips  together 


with  finishing-nails,  then  nail  them  to  the  box  cor¬ 
ners. 

The  Table  Top  should  be  made  of  %-inch  boards, 


146  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


and  should  be  large  enough  to  project  about  1% 
inches  over  the  box  compartment  on  all  sides.  If  you 
can  have  a  top  glued  up  at  a  mill,  do  so ;  otherwise, 
make  as  good  a  joint  as  you  can,  and  fasten  the 
boards  to  the  box  with  finishing-nails. 


Fig.  218.  cross-section  of  pedestal 


Finishing.  You  can  finish  the  table  with  a  wood- 
stain,  shellac  and  varnish,  or  with  enamel  paint. 
Two  coats  of  enamel  will  be  required.  Putty  joints 
and  nail-holes  between  the  first  and  second  coats. 


A  PEDESTAL 


The  pedestal  shown  in  Figure  217  may  be  used  for 
different  purposes,  including  that  of  a  class  table. 


FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS 


147 


The  cross-section  of  Figure  218  gives  dimensions  for 
cutting  the  parts. 

The  Center  Post  is  built  up  of  box  boards.  Cut 
two  strips  3%  inches  wide  by  27  inches  long  for 
sides  A,  and  two  pieces  2%  inches  wide  by  27  inches 
long  for  sides  B  (Fig.  219).  Nail  sides  A  to  the 
edges  of  sides  B,  then  trim  1  inch  from  each  end  of 
the  assembled  post  to  make  it  exactly  25  inches  long. 


Fig.  219.  DETAIL  OF  POST 


Be  careful  in  sawing  off  the  ends  to  make  them 
square. 

The  Top  and  Base  Boards  C  (Fig.  218)  should  be 
centered  upon  the  end  of  the  post,  and  nailed  to  the 
edges  of  side  pieces  A  and  B.  Nail  them  to  the  post 
ends.  Cut  the  top  and  base  boards  D  and  fasten 
them  to  pieces  C,  screwing  or  nailing  through  pieces 
C  into  them.  To  complete  the  base,  cut  the  corner 
blocks  E  and  nail  them  to  the  corners  of  base  board 
D. 

Finishing.  If  the  wood  has  a  pretty  grain,  stain 
and  wax  will  give  an  attractive  finish.  If  you  have 
used  box  boards,  it  will  be  better  to  paint  the  wood. 


148  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  CLASS  GAVEL 

If  you  have  wood-turning  in  manual-training  at 
school,  you  can  probably  get  permission  to  turn  a 
gavel  like  the  one  shown  in  Figure  220.  If  not,  cut 
two  pieces  from  cherry  tree  branches,  one  1%  inches 
in  diameter  (with  the  bark  removed)  for  the  head, 


the  other  %  inch  in  diameter  for  the  handle.  The 
other  measurements  are  given  in  Figure  221. 

If  you  must  make  the  gavel  without  a  lathe,  ?you 
can  cut  the  grooves  in  the  head  very  easily  with  files, 
using  a  rat-tail  file  for  making  the  larger  grooves 
and  a  three-cornered  file  for  the  smaller  grooves. 
Round  the  ends  of  the  head  with  a  file,  also.  Bore  a 
hole  in  the  head  %  inch  deep,  and  glue  the  handle  in 
it. 

Finishing.  You  can  put  a  very  nice  finish  on  your 


FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS  149 

cherry-wood  gavel,  by  shellacking  it  with  white  shel¬ 
lac,  rubbing  this  down,  and  waxing;  or  by  shellack¬ 
ing,  then  applying  two  coats  of  varnish.  But  before 
you  apply  the  finish,  rub  down  the  wood  with  No.  00 
sandpaper  to  make  it  very  smooth. 


Fig.  222.  A  CLASS  SCREEN  AND  BLACKBOARD 


A  CLASS  SCREEN 

Class  screens  are  growing  in  popularity.  There 
are  a  number  of  forms  in  use  but  probably  none 
more  satisfactory  than  that  shown  in  Figure  222 
which  is  similar  to  screens  designed  by  my  friend, 
Rev.  George  T.  Arnold,  for  use  in  his  Sunday  school. 
By  slating  the  upper  third  of  the  screen,  on  both 
sides,  it  will  serve  as  a  blackboard  for  two  classes. 


150  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


This  screen  serves  other  purposes,  too;  it  may  be 
used  as  a  support  for  scenery  for  plays,  as  a  parti¬ 
tion  for  dressing-rooms,  and  as  a  side  of  a  stall  or 
booth  for  bazaars. 


FlG.  223.  FRONT  ELEVATION  OF  SCREEN 


The  screen  is  a  large  piece  of  equipment,  but  as  it 
is  mounted  upon  casters  it  can  be  moved  to  one  side 
easily  and  quickly.  Of  course,  the  size  can  be  re¬ 
duced  if  a  smaller  screen  is  desired.  If  several  are 
to  be  built,  it  is  desirable  to  have  them  of  uniform 
size  and  shape.  You  and  your  chum  would  not  find 


FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS  151 

it  much  of  an  undertaking  to  build  enough  screens 
for  all  classes  of  your  Sunday  school. 

The  Material.  The  lettering  on  the  front  eleva¬ 
tion  (Fig.  223)  and  the  cross-section  (Fig.  224)  des- 


FlG.  224.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  SCREEN 

ignates  parts  of  the  screen.  Corner  posts  A,  runner 
blocks  B,  and  base  plate  D  are  2-by-4s,  cap  piece  H 
is  a  l-by-4,  chalk-rail  E  is  a  2-by-6,  base  braces  C  are 
cut  out  of  2-by-6  inch  stuff,  moldings  I  are  quarter- 
rounds,  and  the  chalk-rail  strips  J  are  lattice-strips. 
All  of  this  stock  should  be  of  soft  pine,  cypress  or 


152  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


other  light-weight,  easily  worked  wood.  Special  in¬ 
structions  should  be  given  when  ordering  that  the 
pieces  be  selected  for  straightness.  If  they  are  not 
straight,  the  screen’s  framework  will  be  twisted 
from  end  to  end. 

The  body  of  the  screen  is  made  of  wallboard.  Buy 
a  piece  48  inches  wide  for  the  lower  two-thirds,  and 
a  piece  24  inches  wide  for  the  upper  third.  As  this 


Fig.  225.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  corner  of  class  screen 

material  can  be  purchased  in  7-foot  lengths,  there 
will  be  only  a  few  inches  waste,  which  will  take  care 
of  broken  corners. 

The  Corner  Posts.  Cut  posts  A  of  the  length 
given  in  Figure  223,  and  cut  off  the  top  corners  as 
shown  in  Figure  224.  Cut  runner  blocks  B  (Fig. 
224)  next,  and  spike  them  at  their  center  to  the  bot¬ 
tom  of  the  posts.  Then  cut  brace  blocks  C  (Fig.  224) 
and  nail  them  to  both  A  and  B. 

The  Connecting  Pieces.  When  the  corner  posts 
have  been  prepared,  cut  base  plate  D,  the  chalk-rail 


FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS 


153 


E,  and  the  cap  H.  Plate  D  and  cap  LI  fit  between  the 
posts ;  rail  E  is  notched  at  each  end  to  fit  around  the 
posts  as  shown  in  the  plan  of  Figure  225,  and  the 
edges  are  beveled  off  at  the  ends.  Rest  base  plate 
D  upon  runner  blocks  B,  and  spike  posts  A  to  its 


FlG.  226.  A  CHAIR  HAT-RACK 


ends.  Then  fasten  the  2-by-6  chalk-rail  E  to  the 
posts  4  feet  %  inch  above  it,  then  the  l-by-4  cap 
piece  H  2  feet  %  inch  above  the  chalk-rail  E. 

The  Panels.  The  quarter-rounds  I  hold  the  wall- 
board  in  place  in  the  screen  framework.  Cut  enough 

pieces  of  the  right  lengths  with  mitered  ends,  to  run 

* 

around  the  four  edges,  on  both  sides  of  the  lower 


154  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


piece  of  wallboard.  Frame  one  side  of  the  lower 
opening  with  fonr  of  the  strips,  nailing  them  to  posts 
A,  plate  D,  and  rail  E  (Fig.  224) ;  then  cut  the  wall- 
board  of  the  right  length  with  a  saw  or  sharp  knife, 
set  it  in  place  and  fasten  it  with  the  other  four  strips?. 


Fig.  227.  PLAN  OF  CHAIR  HAT-RACK 

The  quarter-round  molding  must  be  cut  accurately 
to  make  close-fitting  miters  at  the  corners;  and  it 
must  be  placed  so  as  to  fasten  the  wallboard  in  the 
exact  center  of  the  width  of  the  framework.  Pencil 
lines,  measured  off  carefully,  should  be  used  as  guide 
lines.  In  the  same  manner,  fasten  the  upper  wall- 
board  panel  in  the  framework  with  two  sets-of  quar¬ 
ter-round. 


FOR  THE  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  CLASS 


155 


The  Chalk-rail  is  finished  by  nailing  lattice-strips 
J  to  its  side  edges,  setting  them.. so  they  will  project 
to  form  ledges,  as  shown  in  Figure  224. 

The  Casters  should  be  large  and  ball-bearing  (Fig. 
342,  Chapter  XIX)  so  they  will  roll  easily.  Fasten 
them  to  the  runner  blocks  B  near  the  ends  (Figure 
224). 

Finishing.  When  the  screen  has  been  completed, 
sandpaper  all  wood  surfaces,  and  round  off  sharp 
edges.  The  framework  can  be  stained,  shellacked 
and  varnished,  or  stained,  shellacked  and  waxed  or 
painted.  The  lower  wallboard  panel  will  require  at 
least  two  coats  of  paint  and  three  coats  will  be  bet¬ 
ter. 

The  Blackboard  panel  must  be  given  one  coat  of 
oil-paint  then  three  coats  of  blackboard  slating. 

A  CHAIR  HAT-RACK 

This  rack  does  away  with  the  necessity  of  piling 
hats  upon  a  chair;  but  each  chair  of  the  class  must 
be  provided  with  a  rack,  and  the  class  must  get  their 
own  chairs  each  week,  or  every  chair  in  the  room 
will  have  to  be  supplied  with  a  rack;  otherwise,  the 
scheme  will  not  work. 

A  rack  can  be  made  quickly  of  laths  planed 
smooth.  Figure  226  shows  how  it  rests  upon  the 
chair-rounds  with  its  corners  fitted  against  the  chair- 
legs.  Figure  227  shows  how  the  laths  are  crossed 
and  nailed.  No  measurements  are  given  for  the 
rack,  because  the  shape  and  size  will  be  determined 
by  the  chair  it  is  made  for.  It  should  be  so  con- 


156  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


structed  that  when  it  is  slipped  into  place  it  will  fit 
tightly  against  the  legs.  Fasten  it  by  driving  a  brad 
into  each  chair-leg  just  above  the  rack  strips. 

The  Finish  of  the  rack  should  be  as  nearly  like 
that  of  the  chair  as  possible. 


Chapter  XII 

FRAMING  PICTURES  FOR 
THE  SCHOOL  ROOM 

Passe  Partout  Pictures — A  Lath  Picture-Frame — An  Ornate 
Frame. 

We  often  do  without  as  many  pictures  as  we  would 
like  to  have  because  of  the  cost  of  framing,  and  many 
fine  prints  are  packed  away  with  the  hope  that  some 
day  we  can  afford  to  have  them  framed.  While  store 
frames  are  expensive,  home-made  frames  need  cost 
little  more  than  the  price  of  the  glass,  and  you  can 
make  as  attractive  frames  as  those  you  buy,  if  you 
will  do  your  work  carefully.  There  is  generally  a 
scarcity  of  pictures  in  the  Sunday  school  rooms,  and 
this  is  another  instance  where  you  can  supply  the 
need  with  a  few  hours’  work. 

PASSE  PARTOUT  PICTURES 

The  easiest  method  of  framing  is  to  mount  the 
picture  upon  cardboard,  place  the  cardboard  and 
glass  together,  and  bind  the  edges  with  gummed 
paper,  known  as  passe  partout  paper. 

The  Parts.  Figures  228  and  229  show  a  picture 
framed  somewhat  differently.  Figure  230  shows  the 
parts.  The  first  piece  A  is  the  glass,  B  is  the  card¬ 
board  mat  with  a  panel  opening  justdarge  enough  to 

157 


158  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


cover  the  margins  of  the  picture,  C  is  the  picture,  D 
is  the  cardboard  back,  and  rings  E  are  the  hangers. 
You  will  notice  that  two  slots  are  shown  in  back  D. 
The  end  slot  is  provided  through  which  to  slip  a  pic- 


Fig.  228 


Fig.  229 


Figs.  228  and  229.  front  and  back  of  a  small  passe  partout 

PICTURE 


ture,  the  center  slot  to  admit  your  fingers  for  shift¬ 
ing  the  picture  into  position.  The  slot  arrangement 
makes  it  possible  to  remove  and  replace  pictures. 

The  Glass.  You  can  use  camera  plates  for  glass, 
or,  if  there  happen  to  be  broken  pieces  of  glass 
about  the  house,  you  can  take  them  to  a  paint  store 
and  have  them  squared  up ;  or,  if  you  have  a  glass 


FRAMING  PICTURES  FOR  SCHOOL  ROOM  159 

cutter,  you  can  cut  them  yourself.  You  may  know 
a  photographer  who  will  give  you  used  camera  plates. 
Small  pieces  of  glass,  however,  will  not  cost  much 
at  the  paint  store. 


Fig.  233  Fig.  231  Fig.  230 


Figs.  230233.  details  of  the  passe  partout  frame 

A  Mat.  If  you  can  get  a  piece  of  photo-mounting 
board  for  the  mat,  it  will  be  best;  if  not,  use  white 
cardboard  from  a  box,  or  wallboard.  You  must  cut 
the  panel  opening  with  a  sharp  knife,  cut  the  sides 
straight,  the  corners  square. 

Assembling.  With  all  parts  prepared,  fasten  them 
together  with  passe  partout  paper,  or  with  the 
gummed  tape  sold  for  sealing  packages.  You  can 


160  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


buy  both  in  rolls  (Fig.  231).  The  paper  must  be  cut 
into  strips,  with  ends  mitered,  and  the  lengths  must 
be  measured  carefully,  so  the  pieces  will  join  neatly. 
Moisten  the  gum  on  one  strip,  and  lap  the  strip  over 
one  edge  of  the  glass  and  mat.  Make  the  lap  over  the 
glass  about  *4  inch  wide.  Bind  the  opposite  edges 
with  a  second  strip,  and  then  the  intermediate  edges, 
being  careful  to  have  the  margins  equal. 

Hangers.  Figure  232  shows  a  ring  hanger  with  a 
brass  fastener  that  sticks  through  a  hole  punched  in 
the  picture  backing  and  clinches.  Figure  233  shows 
a  gummed  hanger  made  to  stick  upon  the  back.  If 
you  cannot  buy  either  of  these  at  a  stationery  store, 
make  hangers  out  of  fancy-work  rings  and  strips  of 
gummed  tape. 

Picture  Material  appropriate  for  the  Sunday 
school  room  will  be  found  among  lithographed  and 
photogravured  Bible  picture  cards  and  larger  Bible 
pictures. 


A  LATH  PICTURE-FRAME 

Figure  234  shows  about  the  simplest  wooden 
frame  that  you  can  make.  The  corners  are  not 
mitered,  but  are  butted  together.  Strips  of  the 
width  and  thickness  of  laths  and  lattice-strips  are 
of  the  right  size.  Laths  left  in  the  rough  and  stained 
with  shingle  stain  or  other  wood  stain,  make  artistic 
frames.  Lattice-strips  can  be  stained  and  waxed, 
stained,  shellacked  and  varnished,  or  enameled.  . 

The  Frame  Strips.  Figure  235  shows  how  end 
pieces  B  fit  between  top  and  bottom  pieces  A,  and 


FRAMING  PICTURES  FOR  SCHOOL  ROOM  161 


how  strips  C  batten  the  four  together.  Dimensions 
are  not  given,  because  they  will  be  determined  by  the 
size  of  the  picture  to  be  framed.  Set  strips  C  % 
inch  from  the  inner  edge  of  strips  B,  and  fit  strips  D 
between  them  the  same  distance  from  the  inner  edge 
of  strips  A,  to  form  an  offset  for  the  glass,  picture 


Fig.  234.  A  LATH  OR  LATTICE-STRIP  FRAME 


and  backing,  corresponding  to  that  of  a  rabbeted 
frame.  Fasten  the  strips  with  glue  and  brads. 

The  Frame  Baching.  Use  corrugated  cardboard 
or  wallboard  for  this.  Cut  it  to  fit  the  opening. 
After  the  glass  and  picture  have  been  put  in  the 
frame,  slip  the  backing  in  place,  and  fasten  all  by 
driving  brads  into  the  edge  of  the  frame  strips  C 
and  D.  To  seal  the  back,  cut  strips  of  gummed 
paper  and  lap  them  over  the  spaces  between  the 
frame  and  the  backing. 

Hangers.  Screw  a  screw-eye  into  strips  C  or  the 


162  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


back  of  the  frame,  one-third  of  their  length  down 
from  the  top,  and  fasten  picture-wire  or  heavy  cord 
to  the  screw-eyes.  Hang  the  frame  from  two  pic¬ 
ture-hooks  instead  of  one;  it  will  hang  straighter. 

AN  ORNATE  FRAME 

The  picture-frame  shown  in  the  photograph  of 
Figure  236  is  almost  as  easy  to  make  as  the  one  just 


described.  The  only  additional  work  is  the  cutting 
of  the  curved  top  and  bottom  members.  The  frame 
illustrated  is  made  of  oak,  but  you  can  use  any  other 
kind  of  wood  that  is  readily  worked.  Three-eighths 
inch  stock  is  the  right  thickness.  This  is  a  good  type 
of  frame  for  the  16  by  20  size  of  lithograph  and 
photogravure  prints  of  Bible  pictures  handled  by 
most  of  the  Sunday  school  supply  houses. 

The  Frame  Strips .  Figure  237  shows  a  back  view 
of  the  frame,  and  Figure  238  shows  patterns  for 


Fig.  236.  AN  ORNATE  FRAME  THAT  IS  EASY  TO  MAKE 


[Facing  page  1 62 


FRAMING  PICTURES  FOR  SCHOOL  ROOM  1 63 


marking  out  and  cutting  the  pieces.  In  laying  out 
the  top  piece  B  and  the  bottom  piece  C,  draw  a  cen¬ 
ter-line  across  each,  then  lay  out  one-half  of  the 
curve  to  one  side  of  the  line,  following  the  given 


Fig.  237.  BACK  OF  FRAME  shown  in  photograph  of  figure  236 

dimensions.  Trace  oft  the  half  of  the  curve  upon 
transparent  paper,  reverse  the  paper,  and  transfer 
the  outline  upon  the  other  side  of  the  center-line. 
Use  a  coping  saw  or  other  small  saw  for  cutting  the 
curves.  Saw  close  to  the  lines,  then  finish  up  the 
edges  with  a  chisel  and  sandpaper. 

Assembling .  You  will  see  by  Figure  237  how  to 


164  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


assemble  the  frame,  battening  the  pieces  together 
with  the  battens  D.  The  battens  and  a  pair  of  strips 
set  in  between  their  ends  (E)  provide  an  offset  for 
the  glass,  picture  and  backing,  like  the  rabbet  of  the 


regular  form  of  frame.  Set  strips  D  and  E  %  inch 
from  the  inner  edges  of  frame  strips  A,  B  and  C. 
Fasten  them  with  screws.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
to  cut  the  ends  of  frame  strips  A  square,  and  to 
make  close  joints  between  them  and  top  and  bottom 
strips  B  and  C.  The  joints  should  be  glued. 

Finishing.  You  can  finish  this  frame  with  wood- 


FRAMING  PICTURES  FOR  SCHOOL  ROOM  1 65 


stain,  paint  or  enamel.  The  frame  in  the  photo¬ 
graph  was  stained  gray,  then  shellacked,  then  waxed. 

Use  a  piece  of  wallboard  for  the  backing,  and 
frame  the  picture,  and  put  on  the  hanger  screw-eyes 
in  the  manner  previously  described. 


Chapter  XIII 

BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND  BASES 

A  Staff — A  Four-Wing  Base — A  Base  with  a  Pipe-Fitting 
Socket — A  Small  Staff  and  Base  for  a  Table — A  Small  Base 
for  a  Pennant — A  Spool  Base — Finishing  Staffs  and  Bases — 
Perfect  Attendance  Awards — Banners  and  Pennants — A  Star 
Banner — A  Concrete  Base  for  a  Flag — A  Round  Concrete 
Base. 

Your  Sunday  school  banners,  pennants  and  flags 
may  not  have  staffs  or  bases.  There  is  an  extra 
charge  for  these,  and  they  may  have  been  omitted 
from  the  order  to  reduce  the  cost.  Now,  a  banner 
or  a  pennant  makes  a  good  wall  ornament,  but  if  it 
is  awarded  to  your  class  for  perfect  attendance  or 
other  attainment,  you  will  want  it  near  at  hand,  on 
a  standard.  With  a  little  gumption,  and  an  hour  or 
so  of  work,  you  can  easily  make  a  staff  and  base 
that  will  serve  excellently.  Several  suggestions  for 
these  accessories  are  presented  on  this  and  follow¬ 
ing  pages.  You  will  find  most  of  the  material  at 
hand,  and  what  you  must  buy  will  be  inexpensive. 

A  STAFF 

A  round  rug-pole  or  curtain-pole  will  make  a  good 

banner  or  flagstaff ;  a  brass  ball  such  as  is  sold  for 

curtain-pole  ends  will  do  for  the  head,  and  can  be 

166 


BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND  BASES  167 


FlG.  239.  A  RUG-POLE  STAFF  AND  A  FOUR-WING  BASE 


168  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


screwed  into  the  end  of  the  pole.  A  rng-pole  is  gen¬ 
erally  rough  and  must  be  rubbed  smooth  with  sand¬ 
paper  before  finish  is  applied.  Stain  oak  or  ma¬ 
hogany  color,  then  shellac  and  varnish  it.  The  regu¬ 
lation  length  for  a  staff  is  6  feet. 

Three-eighths  inch  gas-pipe  and  %-inch  water- 
pipe  make  good  staffs,  also.  You  can  plug  the  upper 
end  with  a  wooden  peg  to  screw  a  curtain-pole  brass 
ball  into. 


A  FOUR- WING  BASE 

A  wooden  base  like  that  shown  in  Figure  239  is 
easy  to  make.  Figure  240  shows  a  detail  of  it  and 
Figure  241  a  plan,  while  Figure  242  is  a  pattern  for 
the  wings  A.  The  four  wings  can  be  cut  out  of  any 
wood  %  inch  thick.  By  lapping  their  ends,  as  shown 
in  Figure  240,  all  can  be  cut  of  equal  length.  Fasten 
the  pieces  together  so  there  will  be  an  opening  1% 
inches  square  at  the  center  for  a  pocket.  Nail  the 
shoe  blocks  B  to  the  ends,  cut  cap  block  C  to  fit  over 
the  center  opening,  as  shown  in  Figure  241,  and 
bore  a  hole  through  its  center  of  the  right  size 
for  the  staff.  Bore  a  hole  of  the  same  diameter 
half  way  through  a  similar  block,  and  nail  this 
to  the  under  side  of  the  base,  for  the  bottom  of 
the  socket. 

A  BASE  WITH  A  PIPE-FITTING  SOCKET 

Another  form  of  home-made  base  is  shown  in 
Figure  243.  Cut  crosspieces  A  and  B  18  or  20 


BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND  BASES  1 69 

inches  long,  and  3  inches  wide,  out  of  %-inch  stuff, 
and  halve  them  together  at  their  centers  (Fig.  244) 
— that  is,  cut  away  a  piece  equal  to  the  crosspiece’s 
width  and  one-half  of  its  thickness,  from  each  piece, 


so  that  the  two  will  interlock  with  the  surfaces  flush. 
The  pieces  may  be  left  straight  like  those  of  the  base 
shown  in  Figure  254,  or  may  be  tapered  from  the 
points  at  which  they  interlock,  to  their  ends — as 


170  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


shown  in  figure  244.  Fasten  the  shoe  blocks  C  to 
the  base  ends  as  shown  in  Figure  243. 

The  staff  socket  is  made  of  a  plumber’s  iron  pipe 
floor  flange  (D,  Fig.  245),  and  a  pipe  nipple  to  fit 


Fig.  246 


Fig.  244 

Figs.  243-246.  details  of  base  with  pipe-fitting  socket 


it  (E,  Fig.  246).  You  can  buy  fittings  of  the  right 
size  for  the  staff  you  make  the  base  for.  Screw 
the  floor  flange  to  the  center  of  the  base,  then  screw 
the  nipple  into  it. 


BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND  BASES  171 


Fig,  247.  A  STAFF  AND  BASE  FOR  A  BANNER  TO  STAND  UPON  A  TABLE  OR 

PEDESTAL 


172  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  SMALL  STAFF  AND  BASE  FOR  A  TABLE 

Perhaps  your  class  needs  a  staff  and  base  for  a 
small  banner  or  pennant  to  stand  upon  a  table  or 


Fig.  251 


Fig.  252 


Fig.  249 


Fig.  250 


Fig.  248 


Fig.  248.  A  BASE  MADE  OF  AN  ELECTRIC-LIGHT  FIXTURE  CANOPY  AND  A 

WOODEN  BLOCK 

Figs.  249  and  250.  a  smaller  base  for  a  pennant 
Figs.  251  and  252.  a  spool  base  for  a  pennant 
Fig.  253.  A  PENNANT  LIKE  THIS  IS  EASY  TO  MAKE 


pedestal.  Figure  247  shows  a  base  made  of  one  of 
the  brass  canopy  plates  sold  for  electric-light  fix¬ 
tures  (A,  Fig.  248),  a  nipple  (B),  and  a  wooden 
block  (C)  cut  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  canopy 


BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND  BASES  173 

plate.  To  make  the  base  heavy  enough  so  that  it 
will  not  upset,  fill  the  canopy  plate  with  melted 
lead.  Screw  the  plate  to  the  wooden  block  with 
round-head  brass  screws. 

A  piece  of  gas-pipe  can  be  screwed  to  the  canopy 
plate  for  a  staff,  or  you  can  use  a  curtain-rod  or 
dowel-stick  of  the  right  diameter  to  fit  in  the 
nipple  B. 


A  SMALL  BASE  EOR  A  PENNANT 

The  base  shown  in  Figure  249  is  made  of  a  minia¬ 
ture  lamp-socket  base  (A,  Fig.  250),  a  nipple  (B), 
and  a  wooden  block  (C).  Cut  block  C  larger  than 
the  socket  base,  so  the  standard  will  not  upset  easily. 

A  SPOOL  BASE 

Figure  251  shows  a  base  for  a  small  pennant, 
made  of  a  spool  (A,  Fig  252)  and  a  wooden  block 
(B). 


FINISHING  STAFFS  AND  BASES 

The  metal  and  wooden  parts  of  the  home-made 
bases  for  ^banners,  pennants  and  flags  may  be  fin¬ 
ished  with  enamel  paint,  or  the  brass  may  he  left 
as  it  is,  and  the  wooden  pieces  stained  mahogany 
color.  A  piece  of  felt  glued  to  the  bottom  of  the 
base  blocks  will  prevent  their  scratching  the  sur¬ 
faces  they  are  stood  upon. 


174  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


PERFECT  ATTENDANCE  AWARDS 

Many  Sunday  schools  award  a  banner  or  pennant 
to  classes  having  a  perfect  attendance  and  the 
award  is  theirs  for  as  long  a  time  as  the  attendance 
remains  one  hundred  per  cent.  A  sufficient  number 
of  these  banners  must  be  on  hand  to  award  them  to 
all  the  classes,  should  the  school  at  any  time  report 
a  one  hundred  percent  attendance.  If  you  and  the 
other  boys  in  your  class  will  make  the  staffs  and 
bases,  probably  mother,  sister,  and  other  ladies  in 
the  church  will  undertake  the  preparation  of  the 
banners. 


BANNERS  AND  PENNANTS 

A  banner  or  a  pennant  can  always  be  secured  for 
a  pattern,  and  it  is  not  difficult  to  duplicate  them. 
Figure  249  suggests  a  good  way  to  attach  a  pennant 
to  a  staff.  There  must  be  a  hem  on  the  edge  of  the 
pennant  through  which  to  run  the  staff,  and  two 
tapes  at  the  corners  to  tie  around  the  staff  (Fig. 
253). 


A  STAR  BANNER 

While  you  must  leave  the  making  of  cloth  banners 
and  pennants  to  some  one  else,  you  can  make  every 
part  of  the  star  banner  shown  in  Figure  254.  This 
clever  form  of  banner,  designed  by  my  friend,  Rev. 
George  T.  Arnold,  has  proved  a  great  incentive  to 
regular  attendance. 


BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND  BASES  175 


FlG.  254.  A  STAR  BANNER  FOR  CLASSES  HAVING  PERFECT  ATTENDANCE 


176  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


The  Base  may  be  made  like  any  of  the  forms 
described  on  preceding  pages. 

The  Staff  may  be  a  wooden  curtain-pole  or  a 
piece  of  iron  pipe. 

The  Star  may  be  cut  out  of  wallboard,  but  metal 
will  be  better  material.  You  can  get  galvanized  iron 
or  copper  at  any  tinshop.  Iron  will  be  cheaper  than 
copper,  of  course,  and  will  be  just  as  satisfactory. 
If  you  have  tinsnips,  cut  the  star  yourself.  If  you 
haven’t,  take  a  cardboard  pattern  to  a  tinshop  and 
have  the  cutting  done. 

Laying  Out  a  Star  is  easy.  Describe  a  circle  with 
a  compass,  using  a  radius  of  3  inches  (a  6-inch  star 
is  a  good  size  for  a  banner) ;  divide  the  circumfer¬ 
ence  into  five  equal  parts,  finding  the  exact  divisor 
by  trial;  and  join  alternate  points  with  straight 
lines  (Fig.  255). 

Mount  the  Star  upon  a  metal  rod,  slotting  the  end 
of  the  rod,  slipping  the  star  into  the  slot,  and  solder¬ 
ing  it  (Fig.  256).  This  rod  can  be  driven  into  a  hole 
bored  in  the  end  of  a  wooden  staff,  or  soldered  in 
the  end  of  a  pipe  staff.  Instead  of  using  a  metal 
rod,  you  can  slot  the  end  of  a  stick  (Fig.  257)  and 
fasten  the  star  in  the  slot.  This  is  the  way  to  fasten 
a  wallboard  star. 

Finishing .  The  star  must  be  finished  with  gold 
bronze.  The  staff  and  base  may  be  enamelled  with 
automobile  enamel.  Blue  is  a  good  color,  but  several 
colors  may  be  used,  each  color  designating  a  certain 
attainment — for  instance,  blue  representing  two 
Sundays  of  perfect  attendance,  red  representing 
perfect  attendance  for  the  month,  white  perfect 


Fig.  255.  this  is  the  way  to  lay  out  a  five-pointed  star 
Fig.  256.  SOLDER  A  metal  star  to  a  rod 
Fig.  257.  fasten  a  wallboard  star  in  the  slotted  end  of  a  stick 


178  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


attendance  for  the  year.  The  sizes  of  the  stars  may 
be  varied,  also,  to  indicate  the  rank  of  classes. 
Yonr  minister  or  superintendent  will  determine 
these  matters. 

A  CONCRETE  BASE  FOR  A  FLAG 

A  base  cast  in  concrete  makes  one  of  the  best 
supports  for  a  flag  or  banner  that  I  know  of.  Fig¬ 
ure  258  shows  a  square  base;  Figure  259  shows  a 
detail  of  the  block,  and  Figure  260  shows  a  detail  of 
the  form  required  to  cast  it.  Eight  inches  square 
and  6  inches  deep  is  large  enough  for  the  base  block. 
Make  the  form  as  shown  in  Figure  260  and  described 
for  making  the  bird-bath  form  in  Chapter  VII.  For 
the  flagstaff  socket,  buy  a  6-inch  iron  pipe  nipple 
of  the  right  diameter  for  the  staff  to  slip  into,  and 
support  it  in  the  center  of  the  form  while  the  con¬ 
crete  is  being  poured,  by  sticking  the  staff  or  another 
stick  of  the  same  diameter  into  the  pipe,  and  bearing 
down  heavily.  Of  course,  the  nipple  must  not  be 
allowed  to  slip  during  the  processes  of  pouring  and 
tamping,  and  it  must  be  held  in  a  vertical  position. 
Follow  the  instructions  given  in  Chapter  VII  for 
mixing  and  casting  concrete. 

A  ROUND  CONCRETE  BASE 

The  round  base  with  a  dome-shaped  top,  shown 
in  Figure  261,  is  cast  in  a  kettle  like  that  in  Figure 
262  with  a  6-inch  pipe  nipple  supported  in  the  center. 


BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND  BASES 


Fig.  258.  A  CONCRETE  BASE  FOR  A  FLAG  OR  BANNER 


179 


180  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  kettle  can  be  used  for  the  form,  and  it  is  best  to 
use  an  old  one,  because  the  rim  may  interfere  with 


Fig.  259.  A  SQUARE  CONCRETE  BASE 
Fig.  260.  FORM  FOR  CASTING  A  SQUARE  BASE 

removing  the  block,  in  which  case  it  will  be  necessary 
to  cut  it  away. 

Concrete  bases  may  be  painted,  but  look  well  when 
left  the  natural  concrete  color. 


BANNERS,  PENNANTS,  STAFFS  AND  BASES  181 


Fig.  261.  A  ROUND  CONCRETE  base 
Fig.  262.  AN  OLD  KETTLE  MAKES  A  GOOD  FORM  FOR  A  ROUND  BASE 


Chapter  XIV 

PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH 
AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL 

What  to  Print — Introduction  Tags — Attendance  Booster  Tags — 
Absent  Member  Reminders — Novel  Invitations  to  Socials — 
A  Church  or  Sunday  School  Paper  or  Bulletin. 

Almost  every  Sunday  school  has  among  its 
scholars  a  boy  printer.  Perhaps  you  are  the  lad 
in  your  school.  If  so,  there  is  much  of  the  church 
and  Sunday  school  printing  which  you  should  be 
able  to  handle,  once  you  have  learned  to  do  pre¬ 
sentable  work,  and  I  am  sure  you  can  land  a  share 
of  the  printing  if  you  approach  the  party  in  charge 
of  it.  My  brother  and  I  rendered  such  service  when 
we  were  lads.  Regular  orders  were  paid  for  at 
about  the  rates  formerly  paid  other  printers,  and, 
as  we  donated  much  work,  we  felt  that  we  could 
conscientiously  accept  this  payment.  We  figured 
that  our  printing  outfit  had  been  bought  with  hard- 
earned  money,  and  we  needed  capital  for  additional 
equipment,  for  one  is  never  done  buying  new  faces 
of  type.  The  other  day  in  looking  over  my  scrap¬ 
book  of  printing  samples,  which  consist  of  every¬ 
thing  from  tickets  to  a  monthly  paper,  I  came 
across  specimens  of  our  church  and  Sunday  school 
printing  and  of  church  printing  done  on  the  same 

press  in  recent  years  by  other  lads.  Some  of  these 

182 


PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH 


183 


samples  are  included  in  the  group  of  assorted  print¬ 
ing  shown  in  the  photograph  of  Figure  263. 


WHAT  TO  PRINT 

The  easiest  jobs  for  a  small  press  are  tickets, 
envelopes,  letter-heads  and  tags.  These  require 
little  type,  which  makes  it  easier  to  get  good  impres¬ 
sions.  But  with  patient  “underlaying”  and  “over¬ 
laying”  a  lad  can  produce  good  “make-ready”  even 
with  a  chaseful.  I  remember  one  program  that  we 
turned  out  that  required  four  impressions,  another 
that  was  so  long  that  it  required  two  impressions  to 
a  page.  That  was  working  under  difficulties,  but  was 
good  experience. 

Following  is  a  list  of  printing  which  a  boy  should 
be  able  to  do  for  his  church  and  Sunday  school  on 
a  printing  press  with  a  chase  (frame  for  type),  that 
measures  4  by  6  inches.  Examples  are  shown  in 
the  photograph  of  Figure  263. 

Tickets  for  entertainments,  bazaars,  socials  and 
picnics 

Introduction  tags 
“I  am  Early”  tags 
Attendance  booster  tags 
Badges 
Letter-heads 
Envelopes 

Weekly  offering  and  special  collection  coin  en¬ 
velopes 

Post-card  announcements 
Award  cards 


184  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Absent  member  reminders 

Sick  member  remembrance  cards 

Attendance  and  other  record  cards 

Library  cards 

Menu  cards 

Place  cards 

Programs 

Invitations  to  socials 
Dodgers 

A  church  and  Sunday  school  publication 

It  is  not  my  intention  to  give  instructions  in  this 
chapter  on  how  to  print,  for  that  has  been  dis¬ 
cussed  at  length  in  my  book,  “The  Boy  Crafts¬ 
man”;  but  rather  to  give  a  few  suggestions  as  to 
what  to  print. 


STOCK 

If  you  are  to  have  the  printing  of  all  church  and 
Sunday  school  tickets,  ask  the  person  ordering  to 
use  standard  sizes,  which  will  make  it  possible  to 
buy  stock  cards  instead  of  having  them  cut,  and 
to  buy  them  in  half-thousand  or  thousand  lots 
instead  of  a  few  hundred  at  a  time.  Stock  sizes  can 
always  be  purchased  more  cheaply  than  you  can 
have  cards  cut  to  order. 

Stock  sizes  of  cards  can  be  bought  for  the  printing 
of  absent  member  reminders,  sick  member  remem¬ 
brance  cards,  award  cards,  menu  cards,  place  cards, 
library  cards  and  record  cards. 

Coin  envelopes  and  cards  can  be  purchased  in 


PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH 


185 


small  quantities  at  the  stationery  store,  but  since 
they  can  be  used  in  many  ways,  it  will  pay  to  buy 
them  in  half-thousand  or  thousand  lots  at  a  paper 
house. 

Stock  stationery  can  be  obtained  in  various  sizes 
and  grades,  and  in  large  or  small  quantities. 

Post-cards  can  be  used  for  many  purposes,  and 
it  is  most  economical  to  use  them  when  the  exact 
number  required  for  mailing  is  known,  because  of 
the  saving  in  the  cost  of  stock.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  waste  these  cards  in  4 ‘making  ready”  a  job 
of  printing.  Use  other  cards,  or  paper  cut  post-card 
size,  for  striking  proofs. 

INTRODUCTION  TAGS 

The  “Hello,  Friend!”  Tag,  shown  in  the  photo¬ 
graph  of  Figure  263,  has  come  into  popularity  as  a 
novel  form  of  introduction  in  gatherings  where  there 
are  strangers.  Smaller  tags  than  this  with  the  two 
lower  lines  omitted  can  be  substituted. 

ATTENDANCE  BOOSTER  TAGS 

The  “1  am  a  Booster”  Tag ,  shown  in  Figure  263, 
may  be  used  for  increasing  either  class  or  Sunday 
school  membership. 

The  “I  am  Early”  Tag  (Fig.  263)  is  generally 
used  in  contests  of  a  quarter’s  or  a  year’s  duration. 
Therefore,  enough  can  be  struck  off  at  a  time  for 
a  quarter  or  a  year.  Notice  that  the  tag  is  dated. 
The  dating  is  done  with  a  rubber  stamp  dater.  The 


186  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


person  in  charge  of  awarding  the  tags  to  early 
scholars  can  stamp  them  as  needed,  then  there  will 
be  none  wasted.  It  is  customary  to  give  a  suitable 
award  to  each  scholar  holding  thirteen  tags  at  the 
end  of  a  quarter,  or  fifty-two  tags  at  the  end  of  a 
year. 

Rain  Checks ,  unlike  those  given  out  at  a  ball  game 
postponed  because  of  rain,  are  issued  to  each  scholar 
attending  services  on  stormy  days.  And  at  the  end 
of  the  year,  an  award  is  given  to  those  holding  the 
largest  number  of  checks.  A  rain  check  printed 
upon  a  round-cornered  card  is  shown  in  the  photo¬ 
graph  of  Figure  263.  Tags  can  be  used  instead  of 
cards,  if  preferred. 

ABSENT  MEMBER  REMINDERS 

Numerous  forms  of  reminders  and  “follow-ups” 
have  been  devised  for  school  and  class  secretaries 
to  send  to  absent  members.  From  these  you  can 
make  adaptations  to  print  on  your  press.  The  fol¬ 
lowing  ideas  never  fail  to  bring  results. 

A  Startling  Reminder  consists  of  an  envelope  with 
a  folded  letter-paper  enclosure,  on  one  side  of  which 
is  printed  “This  is  to  remind  you — ”  and  in  the 
folds  of  which  is  concealed  a  metal  or  cardboard 
“bug”  which  buzzes  around  when  released.  It  is 
safe  to  assume  that  the  printed  reminder  will  be 
read  and  acted  upon. 

The  folded  sheet  of  letter-paper  is  shown  in  the 
upper  left-hand  corner  of  the  photograph  of  Figure 
263 ;  and  it  is  shown  in  Figure  264  with  the  enclosed 


PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH 


187 


“bug”  indicated  by  dotted  lines.  Figure  265  shows 
the  unfolded  paper  with  the  reminder  printed 
upon  it. 

Figure  266  shows  a  cardboard  “bug,”  the  rubber 
band  used  to  make  it  buzz  and  the  wire  frame  which 

Fig.  264 


FlG.  264.  A  STARTLING  REMINDER 
Fig.  265.  THE  SHEET  UNFOLDED 


supports  the  rubber  band.  A  pattern  for  the  “bug” 
is  given  in  Figure  267,  and  the  size  of  rubber  band 
to  use  is  shown  in  Figure  268.  To  set  the  “bug,” 
turn  it  over  and  over  until  the  rubber  band  is  tightly 
twisted;  then  hold  it,  fold  it  up  in  the  paper,  and 
slip  the  paper  into  its  envelope. 


188  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


The  Fire-Cracker  Report  Card  at  the  bottom  of 
the  photograph  of  Figure  263  is  a  novelty  from  the 
house  of  David  C.  Cook  Publishing  Company.  The 
cracker  has  an  outer  casing  %  inch  in  diameter 
rolled  out  of  a  piece  of  red  paper  2  inches  square, 
(Fig.  269) ;  and  its  fuse  is  a  piece  of  cotton  string 
glued  in  the  turned-over  edge  of  a  strip  of  paper 
2  inches  wide  and  4  inches  long  (Fig.  271),  which  is 
rolled  up  into  a  tight  roll  (Fig.  270)  and  slipped 


Fig.  267 


Fig.  268 


Figs.  266-268.  details  of  the  “bug”  for  the  startling  reminder 


into  the  casing.  The  wording  for  the  card  can  be 
seen  in  the  photograph.  This  has  been  printed  from 
a  zinc  cut  engraved  from  a  hand-lettered  original. 
You  can  set  up  the  wording  in  type,  omitting  the 
arrow  lines.  The  wording  for  the  fuse  insert  is 
shown  in  Figure  271. 


NOVEL  INVITATIONS  TO  SOCIALS 

A  clever  invitation  to  a  social  seldom  fails  to  bring 
out  a  good  attendance,  and  blazes  the  way  for  the 


V ' 
: 


M 


a***0*' 


LMETTE  BAPTIST  CHURCH 


COME  E) 

SALE  of 

hand  i  craf 
gifts  , 


HELLO, 

FRIEND! 

My  Name  is 


What’s  Yours? 


Official  Ballot 


X  MENU 


)'et  A  REPORT 
from  This1 
cracker 


Fig.  263.  PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  THAT 

CAN  BE  DONE  ON  A  SMALL  PRESS 

[Facing  page  188 


PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH 


189 


evening’s  fun.  There  are  many  methods  of  prepar¬ 
ing  invitations.  The  entertainment  committee  of 
your  church  has  used  various  schemes,  no  doubt,  and 
knows  of  other  untried  ideas.  Two  novel  forms  of 
invitation  are  the  “  Stocking  Social”  invitation, 
shown  in  the  photograph  of  Figure  263,  and  the 
“Backwards  Social”  invitation  shown  in  Figure  272. 


Fig-.  269 


Fig.  270 


wuiwiiiwiiniiimiiimtBmjimmih 


SIZ-Z-Z-ZZ-ZZ-ZZ  BANG! 

We  would 
like  to 
have you 

REPORT 

at  Sunday 
School 


r 


Fig.  271 

Figs.  269-271.  details  of  the  cracker  for  the  fire-cracker  report 

CARD  SHOWN  IN  THE  PHOTOGRAPH  OF  FIGURE  263 


A  Stocking  Social  offers  a  successful  method  of 
raising  a  small  sum  of  money.  There  are  several 
ways  to  word  the  invitation,  but  the  following  verse 
on  a  card,  to  which  is  pinned  a  small  cloth  sock,  is 
to  the  point: 

Deae  Friend: 

This  little  sock  we  send  to  you 
Is  not  for  you  to  wear; 


190  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Please  multiply  your  size  by  two 
And  place  therein  with  care, 

In  precious  nickels,  cents  and  dimes — 

We  trust  you’re  good  at  summing — 

Your  stocking’s  size  increased  two  times. 

Now,  help  us  out  by  coming — 

We’ll  welcome  you  with  smiling  face, 

And  gladly  take  your  stock. 

Remember  well  the  date  and  place — 

And  Don’t  Fokget  Youk  Sock! 

Stocking  Social  Committee, 
Berwyn  M.  E.  Church. 

Date,  Feb.  5th, 

8  o’clock. 

Print  the  verse  upon  a  card  of  post-card  size. 
The  ladies  can  make  the  socks.  These  should  be 
3%  inches  long,  and  should  have^a,  gathering- string 
in  the  top  of  each  with  which  to  draw  the  sock  to¬ 
gether  after  it  has  had  the  correct  number  of  coins 
deposited  in  it. 

A  Backwards  Social ,  at  which  everything  is  done 
backwards,  calls  for  something  unique  in  invitations. 
A  novel  form  to  set  this  in  is  shown  in  Figure  272. 
The  illustration  has  been  reproduced  from  an  invi¬ 
tation  set  up  by  one  of  the  boys  of  the  church  and 
printed  on  my  hand  press,  on  pieces  of  brown  wrap¬ 
ping-paper  with  edges  torn  ragged  as  indicated. 
You.  can  use  your  own  wording  for  the  invitation, 
and  your  own  scheme  for  setting.  The  illustration 
suggests  how  to  set  the  words  to  read  backwards, 


PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH  191 

how  to  invert  letters,  and  how  to  insert  capital  let¬ 
ters  where  small  letters  should  be,  and  vice  versa. 

A  CHURCH  OR  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  PAPER  OR  BULLETIN 

A  publication  for  the  church  or  Sunday  school 
offers  you  a  fine  opportunity  to  serve  in  a  big  way, 
and  the  experience  of  editing,  setting  type,  making 


AIN’TCHA  CUMMIN  ! 

WEAR???  Why,  tu  the  "sdrawkcaB  ytraP" 
tu  B  givin  necks  wensday  mARch,  29,  1922,  at 
307  ercloK  inn  the  cOmurtitea  HOmsE  buy  the 
yung  peepel  uv  Christ  Chnrch  SEA  E.  Yer  aM[ 
cordialy  invijed  ter  b  their.,  dOnt  fergh  to  where 
all  yer  clog  sdrawkcab.  to  tawk,  sihake-Hans,  &  walk 
bakwerds-.  sOlouS  Seeya  nex  Wansday!^-. 


FlG.  272.  AN  INVITATION  TO  A  BACKWARDS  SOCIAL  CAN  BE 

SET  UP  LIKE  THIS 


up  pages,  reading  proof,  making  revisions,  printing 
and  distributing  the  issues  will  be  excellent  training. 

But  the  size  of  the  undertaking  should  be  realized 
at  the  start;  otherwise,  as  often  happens,  the  publi¬ 
cation  may  be  short-lived.  This  is  a  proposition 
that  requires  time,  and  lots  of  it,  continuously.  It 
is  really  more  than  one  boy  should  attempt.  I  can 
speak  from  experience,  since  my  brother  and  I 
published  a  small  paper  for  three  years,  when  we 
were  lads. 


192  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


The  Staff .  Whether  the  publication  be  issued 
weekly,  bi-weekly,  or  monthly,  there  should  be  an 
editorial  staff,  with  an  editor-in-chief  willing  to 
work  and  capable  of  shouldering  the  entire  burden 
if  the  others  fall  down.  There  should  be  an  adver¬ 
tising  manager,  if  space  is  to  be  given  over  to  ads ; 
and  closely  associated  with  him  should  be  the  circu¬ 
lation  manager. 

The  Printers  must  be  plodders,  because  the  me¬ 
chanical  end  of  the  proposition  requires  lots  of  time 
and  patient  effort. 

Machine  Type-Setting  is  preferable  to  setting  by 
hand,  because  of  the  time  it  saves,  and  because  each 
issue  will  be  printed  from  newly  cast  type.  This 
will  save  your  investing  in  many  fonts  of  type  for 
the  body  of  the  sheet,  and  replacing  worn  type 
with  new.  You  can  have  the  setting  done  by  a  mono¬ 
type  machine,  which  casts  each  letter  as  a  unit,  or 
by  a  linotype  machine,  which  casts  all  letters  of  a 
line  in  one  piece.  The  latter  is  the  more  easily 
handled  because  it  is  in  fewer  pieces.  The  type  metal 
can  be  returned  to  the  type-setting  establishment 
after  use,  to  be  remelted  and  reused.  You  will  find 
an  establishment  of  this  kind  in  every  large  city, 
and  in  a  small  town  you  can  have  the  setting  done 
by  the  publisher  of  the  town  newspaper. 

Engraving  is  expensive,  but  occasionally  you  can 
afford  a  reproduction  made  in  zinc  from  a  pen-and- 
ink  drawing,  or  even  a  copper  halftone  from  a  photo¬ 
graph.  Stock  cuts,  of  which  there  are  thousands 
of  designs,  with  something  appropriate  for  every 
occasion,  are  inexpensive,  and  can  be  purchased 


PRINTING  FOR  THE  CHURCH 


193 


from  every  type-foundry,  or  through  your  local 
printer.  Illustrations  make  a  publication  attractive, 
and  are  worth  the  investment,  especially  if  the 
publication  has  been  placed  on  a  paying  basis. 

Specimen  Papers .  The  photograph  of  Figure  263 
shows  a  small  eight-page  Sunday  school  monthly 
publication  issued  by  a  boy  and  his  class.  This  was 
set  and  printed  by  the  boy  himself.  At  the  head 
of  the  illustration  is  also  shown  a  two-page  church 
paper,  the  type  of  which  was  set  on  a  linotype 
machine,  but  the  printing  done  by  a  boy. 

These  are  matters  which  should  be  gone  into 
thoroughly  before  launching  a  church  or  Sunday 
school  publication. 


Chapter  XV 

ATTENDANCE  THERMOMETERS 
AND  DIALS 

New  Member  Contests — How  to  Make  an  Attendance  Thermom¬ 
eter — A  Two-Tube  Contest  Thermometer — An  Attendance 
Dial. 

Attendance  thermometers  have  proved  one  of  the 
best  means  of  stimulating  attendance  at  Sunday 
school.  When  they  are  made  large  and  hung  upon 
the  wall  in  plain  sight  of  all  the  school,  they  never 
fail  to  attract  attention.  Every  one  becomes  inter¬ 
ested  in  the  rise  of  the  “ mercury,’ ’  and  with  united 
effort  the  school’s  attendance  mounts  at  a  gratifying 
rate. 


NEW  MEMBER  CONTESTS 

A  new  member  contest  increases  interest  in  the 
thermometer  recorder.  For  such  a  contest  two 
thermometers  are  needed.  The  school  is  divided 
into  two  teams  of  an  equal  number  of  scholars,  gen¬ 
erally  known  as  “ blues”  and  “reds,”  or  other  colors, 
and  with  the  thermometer'  readings  set  to  indicate 
the  strength  of  each  team,  the  weekly  increase  in 
team  membership  is  shown  by  a  “rise  of  the  mer¬ 
cury”  in  each  “tube.” 


194 


ATTENDANCE  THERMOMETERS 


195 


FlG.  273.  AN  ATTENDANCE  THERMOMETER 


196  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


HOW  TO  MAKE  AN  ATTENDANCE  THERMOMETER 

You  can  easily  make  a  substantial  thermometer 
board  in  an  evening,  and  the  time  will  be  well 
invested  because  the  thermometer  will  be  much  used 
and  will  last  indefinitely.  Figure  273  shows  a  board 
with  a  single  “tube”  mounted  on  an  8-inch  board 
36  inches  long  with  edges  beveled  with  a  plane. 
When  you  have  planed  the  board,  give  it  a  couple 
of  coats  of  white  enamel. 

Laying  Out  the  Board  with  vertical  and  horizon¬ 
tal  lines  is  the  next  operation  (Fig.  274).  Rule  the 
lines  with  a  soft  pencil  and  straight  edge.  Continue 
the  1-inch  divisions  marked  off  at  the  top,  for  the 
full  height  of  the  column.  Then  divide  each  1-inch 
division  into  five.  Each  of  the  small  divisions  is  to 
represent  a  scholar.  Number  them  as  shown  in 
Figure  273.  Go  over  the  lines  and  numbers  with 
black  paint. 

The  “Mercury”  Column  is  indicated  by  two 
pieces  of  tape,  one  white,  the  other  red  or  blue 
(or  whatever  color  the  team  has  chosen,  if  there  is 
to  be  a  contest).  These  tapes  should  be  %  inch  in 
width.  Sew  an  end  of  one  tape  to  an  end  of  the  other 
and  sew  a  piece  of  elastic  to  one  of  the  other  ends 
(Fig.  275).  Then  cut  a  narrow  slot  through  the 
board  above  the  head  of  the  “mercury”  column 
(Figs.  273  and  274),  and  another  below  the  foot  of 
the  column,  slip  the  joined  tapes  through  the  slots, 
bring  the  ends  together  (Fig.  276),  pull  taut  and  sew. 
To  cause  the  mercury  to  rise  in  the  tube,  pull  the 


36 


Fig.  274.  DIAGRAM  OF  THE  THERMOMETER  BOARD 
Fig.  275.  TWO-COLOR  TAPE  to  represent  mercury  column 
Fig.  276.  RUN  THE  tape  through  the  slots  in  the  board  and  JOIN 

ITS  ENDS 

Fig.  277.  HALF  OF  A  RUBBER  BALL  TO  REPRESENT  BULB  OF 

THERMOMETER  TUBE 


198  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Fig.  278.  A  TWO-TUBE  CONTEST  THERMOMETER 


ATTENDANCE  THERMOMETERS  199 

colored  tape  up  on  the  front  of  the  board,  and  the 
white  tape  down  on  the  back. 

The  Bulb  at  the  foot  of  the  column  is  a  half  of  a 
large  rubber  ball  (Fig.  277).  Paint  it  the  color  of 


FlG.  279.  AN  ATTENDANCE  DIAL 

the  red  or  blue  tape,  and  fasten  it  to  the  board  with 
glue  or  rubber  cement. 

Hcmgers.  A  pair  of  screw-eyes  screwed  into  the 
top  of  the  board  will  do  for  hangers. 


A  TWO-TUBE  CONTEST  THERMOMETER 

For  a  two-team  thermometer  use  a  board  IIV2 
inches  wide,  and  lay  it  out  as  shown  in  Figure  278, 


200  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


with  two  “tubes” — one  of  red  and  white  tape,  the 
other  of  blue  and  white  tape.  The  construction  will 
be  similar  to  that  of  the  one  “tube”  board. 

AN  ATTENDANCE  DIAL 

Some  Sunday  school  leaders  prefer  the  dial 
method  shown  in  Figure  279  for  recording  progress 


in  membership  drives.  On  this  dial,  in  reality,  a 
double  dial,  a  large  hand  indicates  the  present  mem¬ 
bership  of  the  school,  a  small  hand  indicates  the 
weekly  gain.  A  pair  of  large  hands  and  a  pair  of 
small  ones,  of  the  team’s  colors,  can  be  provided,  if 
the  dial  is  to  be  used  in  a  contest. 


ATTENDANCE  THERMOMETERS 


201 


The  Dial  Bach  should  be  made  of  wallboard  be¬ 
cause  it  should  be  at  least  24  inches  square.  To 
keep  the  wallboard  from  warping’,  tack  it  to  a  frame 
made  of  laths  or  other  small  strips. 

The  Graduations .  The  diagram  .of  Figure  280 
shows  how  to  lay  out  the  circles  for  the  graduations. 
A  strip  of  cardboard  with  holes  punched  in  it,  one 


Fig.  281 


Figs.  281  and  282.  details  of  hand  for  dial 

for  a  pin  center,  the  others  to  slip  your  pencil 
through,  makes  a  good  compass  for  describing  the 
circles.  Divide  the  circles  into  sixteen  equal  parts 
(Fig.  280),  then  divide  each  of  the  sixteen  parts 
into  two  parts  (Fig.  279),  and  each  of  these  into 
five  parts.  This  will  provide  for  a  membership 
attainment  of  one  hundred  and  sixty.  For  a  higher 
goal  make  a  larger  number  of  divisions. 

The  Large  Hand  can  be  made  of  a  piece  of  tin  cut 


202  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


from  a  can,  a  piece  of  galvanized  iron,  copper,  or 
other  metal.  Figure  281  shows  a  pattern. 

The  Small  Hand  can  be  cut  out  of  metal,  also,  or 
you  can  use  a  hand  from  a  broken  alarm  clock. 

Fasten  the  hands  to  the  dials  with  stove  bolts, 
placing  washers  beneath  the  heads  and  nuts  (Fig. 
282) ;  or  fasten  them  with  round-head  screws,  plac¬ 
ing  a  small  'block  of  wood  behind  the  wallboard  to 
drive  them  into. 

Finishing.  The  wallboard  can  be  enameled  white, 
or  any  color.  Put  on  the  graduations  and  lettering 
with  black  paint,  and  paint  a  border  around  the  out¬ 
side,  or  finish  the  edges  with  strips  of  passe  partout 
paper.  _ _ 


Chapter  XVI 

BANKS  AND  CONTRIBUTION  BOXES 

A  Mite  Box — A  Contribution  Box — A  Large  Contribution  Box. 

Home-made  banks  may  be  provided  for  class  use, 
in  the  Sunday  school  room,  and  one  at  home  will 
encourage  thrift.  As  they  can  be  made  of  material 
at  hand,  the  money  that  would  have  gone  toward  the 
purchase  of  banks  can  be  deposited  therein. 

A  MITE  BOX 

The  cross-shaped  cardboard  bank  shown  in  Figure 
283  presents  a  good  problem  in  laying  out,  cutting 
and  folding.  Make  it  of  box  cardboard. 

Marking  Out  the  Parts.  Figures  284  and  285 
show  how  to  lay  out  the  pieces  required.  As  all 
measurements  are  2  inches,  you  will  find  this  work 
easy  to  do  with  a  pencil  and  ruler.  Care  must  be 
taken,  of  course,  to  make  all  corners  right  angles. 

Folding.  After  you  have  marked  out  and  cut  one 
piece  like  that  shown  in  Figure  284,  and  two  pieces 
like  that  shown  in  Figure  285,  fold  the  former  piece 
along  the  dotted  lines,  lapping  and  gluing  the  first 
and  fifth  folds,  as  shown  in  Figure  287.  Glue  the 
slotted  end  of  the  folded  pieces ;  and  fasten  the  other 
with  pieces  of  gummed  tape,  as  indicated,  to  provide 
for  opening  the  bank.  The  ears  bent  out  on  two 
opposite  sides  are  provided  to  fasten  the  two  hori- 

203 


204  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


zontal  extensions  of  the  cross  to  (Fig.  286).  Fold 
these  cube-shaped  end  boxes  out  of  the  pieces  cut  by 
the  pattern  of  Figure  285. 


Fig.  283.  A  MITE  BOX 


Cover  the  sides  of  the  cardboard  box  with  red 
paper,  or  use  white  paper  and  paint  it  red  with 
water-colors. 


A  CONTRIBUTION  BOX 

A  Small  Contribution  Box  like  that  shown  in 
Figures  288  and  289  can  be  fastened  to  a  wall. 
While  so  fastened  it  cannot  be  opened. 


Figs.  284  and  285.  patterns  for  cutting  and  folding  cardboard 

FOR  MITE  BOX 

Fig.  286.  a  folded  end  of  the  cross-shaped  box 


206  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

The  Can  for  the  Money  Receptacle  of  the  model 
illustrated  was  a  1-lb.  size  fish  can  that  measured  2 
inches  deep  and  3  %  inches  in  diameter. 

The  Top  and  Base  Blochs  (A,  Fig.  290),  and  the 
vertical  bars  (B,  Fig.  291)  are  of  the  correct 
dimensions  for  a  can  of  the  above  given  dimen- 


FlG.  287.  THIS  FOLDED  PIECE  FORMS  THE  CENTER  AND  TWO 
ENDS  OF  THE  CROSS-SHAPED  BOX 


sions.  If  the  can  you  use  is  of  a  different  size,  alter 
the  dimensions  for  the  blocks  and  bars  to  suit.  Make 
blocks  A  %  inch  thick,  bars  B  %  inch  thick.  Cut  off 
the  front  corners  of  blocks  A  with  a  saw  and  a  chisel, 
and  trim  up  the  edge  to  a  perfect  semicircle. 
Smooth  all  surfaces  with  sandpaper.  Bore  a  row 
of  gimlet  holes  along  the  center  of  the  top  block, 
for  the  money  slot,  and  connect  the  holes  with  a 
chisel  or  small  saw.  This  slot  should  be  just  large 
enough  to  admit  a  fifty-cent.  piece. 


BANKS  AND  CONTRIBUTION  BOXES 


Figs  288  and  289. 
Figs.  290  and  291. 


A  SMALL  CONTRIBUTION  BOX 
PATTERNS  FOR  WOODEN  PARTS 


208  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

Assembling .  Bore  screw  holes  through  bars  B 
where  indicated.  Fasten  the  strips  to  the  top  and 
base  blocks  in  the  positions  shown,  with  round-head 
screws.  The  tin  can  will  slip  into  the  back  of  the 
framework,  as  shown  in  Figure  289.  Screw  a  screw- 


FlG.  292.  A  LARGE  CONTRIBUTION  BOX 


eye  into  the  top  block  so  that  its  point  will  come 
inside  of  the  top  rim  of  the  can ;  also,  drive  a  screw- 
eye  through  the  base  block  in  a  corresponding  posi¬ 
tion,  so  that  its  point  will  come  inside  of  the  bottom 
rim.  These  screw-eyes  form  hangers  by  which  to 
hang  the  bank  upon  the  wall,  and  their  projecting 
points  prevent  the  can  from  pulling  entirely  out  of 
the  framework,  when  the  bank  is  removed  for 
emptying. 


BANKS  AND  CONTRIBUTION  BOXES  209 


Paint  the  bank  two  coats.  I  would  suggest  red 
enamel  for  the  tin  can  receptacle,  and  gray  for  the 
top,  base  and  bars,  with  a  small  red  cross  added  to 
the  center  of  the  top. 

A  LARGE  CONTRIBUTION  BOX 

The  box  shown  in  Figure  292  may  be  used  for 
contributions  to  a  fund,  for  special  collections,  to 
deposit  tickets  in  at  entertainments  and  for  a  ballot- 
box  for  church,  school,  or  class  elections. 

The  Material  for  the  box  can  be  obtained  from 
grocery  boxes,  so  need  cost  nothing.  Select  a  box 
or  two  made  of  soft  wood  with  straight  grain,  and, 
after  knocking  the  boards  apart,  pick  out  only  the 
best  pieces.  One-quarter  inch  is  thick  enough,  but 
if  the  boards  run  a  little  thicker  they  can  be  used 
just  as  well. 

The  Parts  are  shown  in  the  patterns  of  Figures 
293  to  298.  Piece  A  is  the  back,  B  is  the  side,  C 
is  the  bottom,  D  is  the  door  on  the  front,  E  is  the 
strip  above  the  door,  and  F  is  the  top.  Mark  them 
out  carefully,  following  the  given  dimensions.  To 
get  the  ends  of  the  back  board  symmetrical,  it  is  best 
to  draw  a  center-line,  and  lay  off  the  measurements 
on  one  side  of  it,  then  trace  otf  the  outline  upon 
thin  paper,  reverse  the  paper,  and  transfer  the  lines 
upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  center-line. 

Cut  the  square  parts  with  a  sharp  cross-cut  saw, 
the  irregular  ends  of  the  back  board  with  a  coping- 
saw  or  other  small  saw.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  splinter  the  edges  of  the  pieces  when  sawing. 


210  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


The  way  to  prevent  this  is  to  back  np  the  piece  yon 
are  sawing  with  another  piece  of  wood,  and  then 
saw  through  the  two.  When  all  of  the  pieces 


Fig.  298 


Fig.  297 


Fig.  296 


Fig.  295 


Fig.  294 


Figs.  293-298.  patterns  for  parts  of  the  large  contribution  box 


required  have  been  cut,  sandpaper  them,  being  care¬ 
ful  to  round  off  only  those  edges  which  do  not  join 
with  other  surfaces.  Cut  the  coin  slot  %  inch  wide 
and  3  inches  long,  boring  a  row  of  holes,  then  cutting 


BANKS  AND  CONTRIBUTION  BOXES  211 


out  the  wood  between  the  holes  with  a  chisel  or  knife. 

Assemble  the  Parts  with  glue  or  brads.  Fasten 
the  bottom  and  side  pieces  together,  first,  then  the 
back  to  their  edges.  Next,  hinge  the  front  board 
to  the  front  edge  of  the  bottom  board,  letting  the 
hinges  into  the  pieces  as  shown  in  Figure  299,  and 
fasten  strip  E  above  it.  Buy  a  cupboard  half -mortise 
lock  at  the  hardware  store  (Fig.  300),  fasten  it  to 


Fig.  299.  ATTACH  THE  HINGES  AND  LOCK  LIKE  THIS 
Fig.  300.  use  a  half-mortise  lock 

the  inside  of  the  door,  as  shown  in  Figure  299,  and 
cut  a  slot  in  the  lower  edge  of  strip  E  for  a  latch- 
pocket.  Use  a  sharp  chisel  for  the  cutting. 

The  Finish  for  the  contribution  box  may  be  such 
as  you  select  or  are  directed  to  use.  A  coat  of  flat 
paint  and  two  coats  of  enamel  are  probably  best 
suited  to  the  purpose,  but  you  can  use  a  stain  made 
of  oil  paint  thinned  with  turpentine,  or  a  purchased 
wood  stain,  if  the  surfaces  will  take  it  nicely. 

Screw  a  pair  of  screw-eyes  into  the  top  edge  of 
the  back  board  for  hangers. 


t 


Chapter  XVII 

BULLETIN  BOARDS 

A  Bulletin  Board  on  Posts — A  Portable  Bulletin  Board — An  In¬ 
door  Bulletin  Board — A  Bulletin  Board  with  a  Glass  Front. 

Nowadays  we  seldom  see  the  once  familiar  “A” 
type  of  church  bulletin  board,  made  of  two  wide 
boards  placed  with  tops  together  and  bottoms  spread, 
and  braced  with  strips  nailed  across  their  edges. 
Occasionally  we  find  one  outside  a  tent  tabernacle, 
but  of  course,  the  temporary  nature  of  tent  meetings 
warrants  the  use  of  a  board  quickly  knocked  to¬ 
gether.  There  is  little  excuse  for  not  having  better 
permanent  equipment,  because  the  cost  of  the 
material  for  a  well-designed  board  is  small  and  you 
or  any  other  boy  of  the  church  or  Sunday  school  can 
do  the  work. 


A  BULLETIN  BOARD  ON  POSTS 

The  board  with  a  canopy  top,  shown  in  the  frontis¬ 
piece  photograph  of  Figure  301  and  the  detail  of 
Figure  302  is  of  dignified  design,  and  practical  for 
a  permanent  position  on  the  church  lawn  or  park¬ 
way.  The  board  in  the  photograph  is  big  enough 
for  all  purposes.  Its  dimensions  are  shown  in  the 

elevation  and  cross-section  working-drawings  of 

212 


BULLETIN  BOARDS 


213 


Figures  303  and  304 ;  but  these  need  not  be  adhered 
to.  Some  boards  are  made  narrower.  This  is  a 
matter  for  your  minister  to  decide. 

The  Best  Material  for  an  outdoor  bulletin  board 
is  cypress,  often  spoken  of  as  the  4  4 wood  eternal/ 9 


Fig.  302.  a  bulletin  board  set  up  on  posts,  (see  frontispiece, 

FIGURE  30l) 

because  of  its  great  resistance  to  decay.  This  is  an 
easily  worked  wood,  and  it  takes  stain  readily.  In 
making  out  your  material  bill,  specify  that  the  pieces 
ordered  shall  be  selected,  free  from  knots  and  cracks, 
and  “S-4-S”  (which  means  surfaced-four-sides). 
Notice  that  the  corner  posts  A  are  4-by-4s.  Their 


214  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


length  above  ground  is  shown  as  6  feet  2  inches,  but 
they  must  be  at  least  8  feet  long,  so  that  not  less 
than  20  inches  of  their  lower  ends  can  be  set  into 
the  ground  (36  inches  would  be  better).  Rails  B 


FlG.  303.  FRONT  ELEVATION  OF  BULLETIN  BOARD 
Fig.  304.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  BULLETIN  BOARD 


and  C  are  2-by-4s,  panel  boards  D  are  l-by-6  matched 
flooring,  molding  strips  E  are  quarter-rounds, 
brackets  F  are  cut  out  of  a  piece  of  2-by-6,  roof 
boards  G  are  12-inch  boards,  and  ridge  piece  H  is 
a  strip  of  galvanized  iron  or  copper. 


BULLETIN  BOARDS 


215 


The  Corner  Posts  must  have  their  tops  cut  off 
as  shown  in  the  detail  of  Figure  305,  tomtit  the  peak 
of  the  canopy.  Mark  off  the  lines  to  saw  on  exactly 
at  an  angle  of  45  degrees,  so  the  peak  will  be  a  right 
angle.  The  posts  of  the  board  illustrated  have  stop- 
chamfers  cut  on  their  edges  (Fig.  305).  This  is  for 
ornamentation.  The  cutting  should  be  done  with 
a  chisel  and  a  plane. 


Fig.  305.  DETAIL  OF  CORNER  POSTS 

The  Rails  and  Panel  Boards  should  be  cut  next. 
Their  lengths  are  shown  in  Figures  303  and  304. 
The  groove  of  the  first  board  of  the  panel,  and  a 
strip  including  the  tongue  of  the  last  board,  will 
have  to  be  ripped  off.  The  width  of  the  last  board 
can  be  determined  best  after  all  of  the  boards  but 
this  have  been  nailed  in  place. 

Assembling  the  bulletin  board  is  a  simple  job  of 
nailing.  First,  mark  off  the  positions  for  the  ends 
of  rails  B  and  C  on  the  inner  face  of  posts  A.  Then 
toe-nail  the  rail  ends  to  the  posts  with  20-penny 


216  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


finishing-nails.  This  is  best  done  with  the  members 
laid  flat  upon  the  ground.  Next,  frame  one  side  of 
the  panel  opening  with  quarter-round  strips  (E), 
mitering  the  strip  ends  so  they  will  join  neatly. 
Guide-lines  must  be  measured  off  and  drawn, 
to  locate  the  strips  correctly  in  respect  to  the  thick¬ 
ness  of  the  posts.  With  the  quarter-round  molding 
nailed  around  one  side  of  the  opening,  nail  the  panel 


Fig.  306.  PATTERN  FOR  CANOPY  BRACKETS 


boards  in  place.  Drive  the  boards  close  together, 
and  toe-nail  through  their  ends  into  rails  B  and  C. 
When  the  panel  boards  have  been  nailed,  fit  and  nail 
the  second  set  of  quarter-round  strips  to  them 
(Fig.  304). 

The  Canopy  is  supported  by  the  post  ends  and  the 
four  brackets  (F).  Cut  the  brackets  out  of  2-by-6- 
inch  stuff,  laying  them  out  by  the  pattern  of  Figure 
306.  The  slope  of  the  top  of  the  brackets  must  be 
exactly  the  same  as  the  slope  of  the  post  ends.  It 
will  be  the  same  if  you  mark  it  as  shown  and  saw 


BULLETIN  BOARDS 


217 


accurately.  Toe-nail  a  pair  of  the  brackets  to  the 
center  of  the  opposite  faces  of  each  post,  as  shown. 

The  roof  boards  (G)  are  cut  from  a  12-inch  board, 
which  will  measure  about  11%  inches  wide.  Cut 
them  4  feet  9  inches  long  (Fig.  303).  Nail  or  screw 
them  to  the  posts  and  brackets.  With  the  boards 
in  place,  get  a  strip  of  galvanized  iron  or  copper 
5  inches  wide,  bend  it  to  fit  the  ridge,  and  nail  it  to 
the  roof  boards  with  shingle  nails. 

Finishing .  You  can  finish  the  bulletin  board 
before  or  after  setting  it  up.  The  best  kind  of  finish 
for  a  board  made  of  cypress  is  a  creosote  shingle- 
stain.  You  can  buy  a  small  quantity  of  whatever 
color  is  desired  at  most  paint-stores.  Directions  for 
applying  will  accompany  the  stain. 

Of  course,  you  can  paint  the  board,  if  paint  is 
preferred.  Two  coats  wfill  be  necessary,  and  three 
will  make  a  better  job. 

Erecting  the  Board.  You  can  set  the  corner  posts 
of  the  bulletin  board  in  holes,  drilled  with  a  post-hole 
auger,  or  dug;  but  they  will  be  firmer  if  set  in  con¬ 
crete,  and  this  is  the  way  I  would  advise  you  to  set 
them  if  you  can  get  the  material.  It  will  take  only 
a  little  concrete  for  the  purpose,  and  possibly  you 
can  buy  what  you  need  from  a  builder  in  the  neigh¬ 
borhood.  For  concrete  footings  you  can  drill  holes 
to  the  required  depth  (about  30  inches)  with  a  post- 
hole  auger ;  then  enlarge  the  diameter  with  a  spade. 
If  you  have  allowed  a  length  of  only  20  inches  to  set 
into  the  ground,  you  can  dig  holes  30  inches  or  so 
deep,  and  fill  them  with  concrete  to  the  20  inch  depth, 
for  a  footing.  When  these  footings  have  set,  stand 


218  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


the  post  ends  upon  them,  fill  in  around  them  with 
concrete,  and  tamp  it  down. 


Fig.  308.  DETAIL  OF  PORTABLE  BULLETIN-BOARD  SHOWN 
IN  PHOTOGRAPH  OF  FIGURE  30 7 


A  PORTABLE  BULLETIN  BOARD 

Sometimes  a  portable  board  meets  the  require¬ 
ments  better  than  the  stationary  type  just  described. 
It  can  be  stood  upon  the  sidewalk,  upon  a  terrace, 
or  the  lawn.  The  photograph  of  Figure  307  shows 
a  good  form  of  portable  bulletin  board,  the  making 


BULLETIN  BOARDS 


219 


of  which  will  he  a  good  problem  in  carpentry  for  a 
boy.  Figure  308  is  a  detail  of  the  same  board. 
Figure  309  is  a  cross-section,  and  Figures  310  to  316 
are  diagrams  of  the  parts. 


Fig.  309  Fig.  314 

Fig.  309.  cross-section  of  portable  bulletin  board 
Figs.  310-316.  details  of  parts 


Use  Cypress  for  this  board,  if  you  make  one,  be¬ 
cause  of  its  durability  and  the  ease  with  which  it  can 
be  worked.  Posts  A  (Fig.  309)  and  runners  E  are 
pieces  of  2-by-4.  Board  B  can  be  made  up  of 
matched  pieces,  like  the  panel  of  the  larger  bulletin 
board  shown  in  Figure  302,  but  it  will  be  better  to 


220  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


go  to  a  mill  and  have  a  piece  of  single  width  glued 
up.  Have  the  mill-man  let  a  strip  of  wood  into  the 
joint  to  reenforce  the  gluing. 

Preparing  the  Parts.  Figure  310  gives  dimen¬ 
sions  for  uprights  A,  Figure  314  for  runners  E,  and 
Figure  311  for  the  panel  board.  The  inside  face  of 
posts  A  must  be  grooved  to  receive  the  edge  of  the 
panel.  Cut  the  groove  of  the  size  shown  in  Figure 
310,  %  inch  deep,  cutting  it  with  a  %-inch  chisel. 
Cap  block  C  (Fig.  312),  must  be  grooved  also  to  fit 
over  the  top  of  the  board  (Fig.  309).  Cut  strips  D 
(Fig.  313)  to  fit  against  the  sides  of  the  panel,  be¬ 
tween  posts  A  (Fig.  309). 

.Assembling.  Posts  A  can  be  fastened  to  runners 
E  with  mortise-and-tenon  joints,  or  simply  with  long 
lag-screws  driven  through  the  runners  into  the  post 
ends.  For  reenforcement,  fasten  iron  braces  in  the 
angles  formed  by  posts  A  and  runners  E  (see  dotted 
lines  in  Fig.  309),  and  conceal  the  braces  with  the 
wooden  brackets  G  (Fig.  316).  Nail  shoe-blocks  F 
(Fig.  315),  to  the  runner  ends.  Fit  these  carefully, 
making  them  of  the  right  width  so  their  surfaces  will 
be  flush  with  those  of  the  runners.  When  all  parts 
have  been  securely  nailed  and  screwed,  join  the  run¬ 
ners  with  crosspieces  H,  making  these  of  l-by-2  inch 
stuff  cut  of  the  required  length. 

Finish  the  Bulletin  Board  with  stain  or  paint,  af¬ 
ter  carefully  sandpapering  all  surfaces.  If  you  stain 
the  wood,  putty  all  nailholes  with  putty  colored  to 
match  the  stain,  before  applying  the  stain.  If  you 
do  a  paint  job,  putty  after  the  first  coat  has  dried, 
for  it  will  hold  better  then. 


BULLETIN  BOARDS 


221 


AN  INDOOR  BULLETIN  BOARD 

A  good  board  for  the  posting  of  bulletins  indoors 
can  be  made  of  wallboard.  To  keep  the  wallboard 
from  warping,  tack  it  to  three  lath  battens,  one 


Fig.  317.  AN  INDOOR  BULLETIN  BOARD  WITH  GLASS  FRONT 


placed  across  the  bottom,  another  across  the  top, 
and  a  third  across  the  center,  on  the  back. 

A  BULLETIN  BOARD  WITH  A  GLASS  FRONT 

A  more  elaborate  form  of  bulletin  board  is  shown 
in  Figure  317.  Instead  of  placing  battens  on  the 
wallboard,  a  frame  is  made  and  the  wallboard  is 


222  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


tacked  to  it.  Then  a  second  glazed  frame  of  the 
right  size  to  fit  inside  is  hinged  to  it.  This  inner 
frame  prevents  notices  from  blowing  away  or  from 
being  tampered  with. 


Fig.  319  Fig.  324  Fig.  321 


Fig.  318  Fig.  320 


Fig.  318.  FRONT  OF  OUTER  FRAME  OF  BULLETIN -BOARD 
Fig.  319.  FRAME  WITH  WALLBOARD  BACKING 
Figs.  320  and  321.  the  inner  frame 
Figs.  322-324.  hinge,  knob  and  button  for  inner  frame 


The  Inner  Frame  may  be  a  picture-frame  of  plain 
molding  %  or  1  inch  wide.  If  you  cannot  find  one  at 
home,  buy  one  at  a  department  store  or  a  paint 
store,  or  get  the  molding  and  make  one.  A  frame 


BULLETIN  BOARDS 


223 


with  a  16  by  20  inch  opening  is  a  good  size  to  use. 

The  Outer  Frame  must  be  made  to  suit  the  inner 
picture-frame.  If  you  cannot  get  the  same  kind  of 
wood,  you  can  stain  other  wood  so  that  it  will  look 
very  much  like  it,  or  you  can  enamel  both  frames. 

The  corners  of  the  outer  frame  can  be  mitered, 
but  it  will  be  easier  to  make  butt-joints  as  shown  in 
Figure  318.  In  cutting  the  pieces,  make  them  long 
enough  so  there  will  be  a  clearance  of  %  inch  on  all 
sides  of  the  picture-frame;  this  is  important.  Tack 
the  wallboard  backing  to  the  frame  in  the  manner 
shown  in  Figure  319.  If  you  wish  to  face  the  board 
with  felt,  glue  the  material  to  the  wallboard  before 
tacking  this  to  the  frame. 

Assembling.  Hinge  the  picture-frame  to  the  outer 
frame  with  a  pair  of  small  brass  hinges  (Fig.  322). 
Fasten  a  knob  made  of  a  silk-twist  spool  (Fig.  323) 
to  the  picture-frame  with  a  round-head  screw,  and 
screw  a  pair  of  metal  buttons  (Fig.  324)  to  the  outer 
frame. 


Chapter  XVIII 

BLACKBOARDS  AND  AN  EASEL 

A  Wallboard  and  Lath  Blackboard — A  Blackboard  and  Bulletin 
Board — An  Easel  for  Blackboards  and  Maps. 

How  about  an  extra  blackboard  for  the  Sunday 
school  room — a  small  one,  a  large  one,  or  an  easel 
for  a  blackboard  or  maps!  If  the  school  room  is 
provided  with  screens,  the  best  plan  is  to  build  a 
blackboard  into  each  side  of  them  as  the  class  screen 
shown  in  Figure  222,  Chapter  XI,  is  made.  There 
may  be  need  of  additional  boards,  however,  so  I  am 
presenting  plans  in  this  chapter. 

A  WALLBOARD  AND  LATH  BLACKBOARD 

The  blackboard  in  Figure  325  measures  36  by  48 
inches,  but  the  size  is  something  for  your  Sunday 
school  teacher  or  superintendent  to  decide.  The 
writing  surface  is  wallboard,  which  can  be  pur¬ 
chased  in  32-inch  and  48-inch  widths,  in  lengths 
varying  from  6  to  10  feet.  Wallboard  is  sold  at  lum¬ 
ber-yards,  but  if  you  want  only  part  of  a  sheet  you 
had  better  see  if  you  cannot  get  it  from  a  carpenter. 

The  Blackboard  Frame.  The  easiest  way  to  make 
this  is  to  tack  lattice-strips  or  laths  to  the  edges  of 
the  wallboard  panel,  on  both  sides  (Fig.  326).  Laths 

224 


BLACKBOARDS  AND  AN  EASEL 


225 


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FlG.  325.  A  WALLBOARD  AND  LATH  BLACKBOARD 

(A  chalk-rail  may  be  added,  if  desired) 


llfflL^ — ^ 

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FlG.  326.  FRAME  THE  WALLBOARD  BLACKBOARD  WITH  LATHS  LIKE  THIS 


226  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


are  cheaper  and  yon  can  plane  them  np  satisfactor¬ 
ily.  You  can  miter  the  frame  strips  at  the  corners, 
bnt  neatly  made  butt-joints  like  those  shown  in  Fig. 
325  will  look  just  as  well  and  will  be  easier  and 
quicker  to  make.  Glue  the  strips  to  the  wallboard, 


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Fig.  327 


Fig.  328 


Figs.  327  and  328.  one  side  of  this  board  is  slated  for  a  black¬ 
board,  THE  OTHER  SIDE  IS  LEFT  PLAIN  TO  PIN  NOTICES  ON 


and  in  addition  nail  them  with  %-inch  or  %-inch 
brads. 

Slating  the  Blackboard.  Schoolboard  liquid-slat¬ 
ing  can  be  bought  at  most  well-stocked  paint  stores, 
and  it  can  be  obtained  through  your  Sunday  school 
supply  house.  Directions  for  applying  will  accom¬ 
pany  it.  To  prepare  the  wallboard  for  the  slating, 


BLACKBOARDS  AND  AN  EASEL 


227 


it  is  a  good  plan  to  give  the  surface  two  coats  of 
lamp-black  thinned  with  turpentine.  If  you  are  not 
able  to  buy  the  liquid-slating,  apply  four  coats  of 
lamp-black  and  turpentine  to  the  wallboard.  This 
will  make  a  fair  writing  surface. 


FlG.  329.  A  BLACKBOARD  EASEL  IS  EASY  TO  MAKE 

A  Chalk-rail  may  be  added  to  the  blackboard 
frame  if  one  is  wanted.  Make  it  of  strips  like  the 
rail  shown  in  Figure  332. 

Finish  the  Frame  Strips  with  paint  or  enamel. 

Hangers.  If  there  is  a  picture-molding  from 
which  to  hang  the  blackboard,  set  screw-eyes  in  the 
top  edge  of  the  frame,  and  buy  chain  and  picture- 
hooks  for  hanging. 


228  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  BLACKBOAKD  AND  BULLETIN  BOAED 

A  handy  board  is  one  slated  on  one  side  for  a 
blackboard  (Fig.  327),  and  left  plain  on  the  other 


Fig.  330.  DETAIL  OF  EASEL  FRAME 
FlG.  331.  HINGE  THE  REAR  LEG  IN  THIS  MANNER 
Fig.  332.  DETAIL  OF  BLACKBOARD  SUPPORT  AND  CHALK-RAIL 


side  to  pin  notices  on  (Fig.  328).  Using  a  piece  of 
wallboard  about  18  by  24  inches  in  size,  it  will  only 


BLACKBOARDS  AND  AN  EASEL  229 

be  necessary  to  batten  it  with  laths  across  the  top 
and  bottom,  as  shown. 

Drill  holes  through  the  top  battens  for  the  attach¬ 
ment  of  chain  or  wire  hangers. 

AN-  EASEL  FOR  BLACKBOARDS  AND  MAPS 

The  easel  shown  in  Figure  329  is  made  of  l-by-2 
strips.  Figure  330  gives  dimensions  for  the  A- 
shaped  frame.  Bring  together  the  upper  ends  of 
uprights  A,  as  shown,  and  fasten  them  with  the  block 
C  (Figure  331) ;  connect  the  lower  ends  with  the 
cross-bar  B.  Fasten  block  C  and  cross-bar  B  to  the 
back  of  the  uprights.  Cut  strut  D  6  inches  shorter 
than  strips  A,  and  hinge  it  to  the  block  C  (Fig.  331). 
Fasten  a  loop  of  chain  to  uprights  A,  and  the  center 
of  the  loop  to  strut  D,  to  keep  the  easel  from  spread¬ 
ing  when  set  up. 

The  Blackboard  Support  and  Chalk-rail  should  be 
built  up  as  shown  in  Figure  332.  Make  shelf  strip  E 
4  inches  wide,  nail  a  3-inch  strip  to  one  edge  for 
apron  F,  and  a  2-inch  strip  to  the  other  edge  for 
ledge  G.  Bore  a  hole  near  each  end  of  apron  F,  and 
a  hole  through  each  of  the  pair  of  easel  uprights  A, 
through  which  to  run  pegs  H  for  pinning  the  shelf 
to  the  easel.  The  chalk-rail  may  be  removed  when 
the  easel  is  wanted  for  a  map  rack. 

Stain ,  Paint  or  Enamel  may  be  used  for  finishing 
the  easel. 


Chapter  XIX 

FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM 

A  Coat-and-Hat-Rack  for  a  Wall — A  Portable  Rack — A  Whisk- 
Broom  Holder — A  Shoe-Polishing  Case — A  Waste-Basket. 

Perhaps  no  provision  has  been  made  in  yonr 
church  building  for  a  coat-room,  and  each  member 
of  the  congregation  and  each  member  of  the  Sunday 
school  must  take  care  of  his  coat,  hat,  umbrella  and 
rubbers  as  best  he  can,  piling  them  on  vacant  pews 
or  chairs.  But  coat-rooms  are  coming  into  their  own 
as  a  necessary  adjunct  to  the  modern  church;  in 
buildings  where  no  room  has  been  provided,  space 
is  being  partitioned  off  for  the  purpose.  Partitions 
are  so  easily  and  so  cheaply  built  of  wallboard,  now¬ 
adays,  that  a  church  may  have  conveniences  which 
once  might  have  been  considered  luxurious. 

A  COAT-AND-HAT-RACK  FOR  A  WALL 

Some  of  us  have  become  so  accustomed  to  hang¬ 
ing  our  coats  and  hats  upon  hooks  at  home,  that  we 
think  of  a  coat-room  as  a  space  equipped  like  our 
clothes-closet.  But  that  is  not  the  ideal  arrange¬ 
ment.  Hats  hung  on  hooks  do  not  “stay  put,”  espe¬ 
cially  when  there  is  an  after-service  rush  for  the 
coat-room,  presaging  hot  dinners  with  the  least  pos- 

230 


i 


FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM 


231 


sible  loss  of  time.  Then,  we  might  as  well  look  upon 
the  floor  first  as  last.  Much  confusion  and  annoy¬ 
ance  is  avoided,  of  course,  through  the  employment 
of  coat-room  attendants;  but  the  approved  system 


FlG.  333.  A  COAT-AND-HAT-RACK  FOR  A  WALL 


used  in  all  large  checking-rooms  is  a  hat-rack  above 
each  row  of  hooks. 

Figure  333  shows  a  home-made  rack  that  has 
proved  satisfactory.  There  is  a  rod  for  coat-hang¬ 
ers,  instead  of  hooks,  and  above  the  rod  are  two 
tiers  of  hat-racks.  Hangers  keep  one’s  clothing  in 
better  shape  than  hooks.  With  these  arranged  as 
shown  in  Figure  333,  coats  can  be  hung  close  to- 


232  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


gether,  like  clothing  at  a  dealer’s,  thus  requiring  a 
minimum  of  wall  space. 

The  Rack  in  Figure  333  is  supported  by  two  end 
brackets,  each  built  up  as  shown  in  Figure  334,  of 


upright  A,  horizontal  pieces  B  and  C,  and  diagonals 
D  and  E.  Cut  these  out  of  2-by-2s,  planed  smooth 
on  all  sides,  following  the  given  dimensions.  Cut  a 
^4-inch  bevel  on  one  end  of  pieces  B  and  C,  and  bore 
a  1-inch  hole  through  piece  B  at  H,  for  the  hanger 
rod  to  run  through.  Nail  the  rack  members  together 
with  16-penny  finishing-nails. 


FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM 


233 


Hat-bars  %-inch  thick  and  1%  inches  wide  (F, 
Fig.  334)  are  more  satisfactory  than  board  shelves, 
because  there  is  less  chance  of  the  collection  of  dust. 
Their  length  will  be  determined  by  the  length  of  the 
rack  required.  The  distance  between  supports,  how¬ 
ever,  should  not  exceed  10  feet. 

The  Hanger  Rod.  For  this  get  a  piece  of  %-inch 
galvanized  iron  pipe  and  two  pipe  caps  (Fig.  335) 
from  a  plumber.  Have  the  pipe  cut  1  inch  longer 
than  the  rack,  and  threaded  on  both  ends.  Slip  the 


{IHntiimnux  «»n  %«•%  imimii  mu 


i  *  mi*  »»*«  mu  >itn  »•»»»*»• 


--a  (S 


Fig.  335.  an  iron  pipe  hanger  rod 


pipe  through  the  holes  bored  in  the  end  brackets, 
and  screw  a  cap  on  each  end  to  hold  it  in  position. 

Coat  Hangers  cost  little  more  than  coat  hooks. 
Most  10-cent  stores  sell  the  wire  variety  at  5  cents 
apiece. 

Finishing.  Paint  or  stain  the  woodwork  of  the 
rack,  and  paint  or  enamel  the  pipe  hanger  rod.  Fas¬ 
ten  the  rack  to  the  wall  with  lag-screws.  These  are 
screws  with  square  heads  that  are  turned  with  a 
wrench. 


A  PORTABLE  RACK 

The  coat-and-hat-rack  shown  in  Figure  336  is  used, 
in  addition  to  wall-racks,  in  most  checking-rooms  of 
any  size.  It  is  usually  stood  in  the  center  of  the 
room.  It  is  particularly  adapted  for  use  in  the 


234  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

church  building  since  it  is  mounted  on  casters  and 
can  be  pushed  out  into  one  of  the  main  rooms,  or 


FiG.  336.  THIS  PORTABLE  RACK  HAS  .CAPACITY  FOR  FIFTY  COATS  AND  HATS 
AND  IS  A  GOOD  TYPE  OF  RACK  FOR  A  COAT-ROOM 


taken  out  on  the  lawn,  whenever  occasions  arise  to 
use  it  there. 

The  rack  illustrated  has  twenty-five  coat-hooks  on 


FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM 


235 


each  side,  thereby  accommodating  the  wraps  of  fifty 
people.  Racks  above  the  hooks  hold  hats.  Pipes 


Fig.  337.  CROSS-SECTION  OF  portable  rack 
Fig.  338.  DETAILS  OF  END  POSTS  AND  RUNNER  BLOCKS 

can  be  substituted  for  hanger  rods,  in  place  of  hooks, 
as  the  wall-rack  shown  in  Figure  333  is  equipped. 
The  End  Supports  are  built  up  of  a  4-by-4-inch 


236  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

post  A  (Fig.  337),  runner  block  B,  a  pair  of  brace 
blocks  C,  and  a  2-by-4  top  plate  D.  Figure  338  shows 
how  these  pieces  are  assembled.  Center  runner 
block  B  and  top  plate  I)  on  the  post  ends  and  spike 
them  to  the  post. 


Fig.  339 

Figs  339-340.  this  is  the  way  to  cut  the  post  mortises 


Mortising  the  Posts.  Mortise  the  side  faces  of 
posts  A,  and  the  upper  face  of  runner  blocks  B,  as 
shown,  for  the  brace  blocks  C  to  sit  in.  Also,  mor¬ 
tise  the  inner  face  of  the  posts  at  the  top  and  the 
bottom,  to  receive  the  ends  of  base  and  hook  rails 
E  and  F. 


FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM 


237 


As  brackets  C  and  book  rail  F  are  to  be  cut  from 
%-inch  stock,  it  will  be  best  to  use  a  %-inch  chisel 
for  cutting  the  mortises  for  them,  because  the  entire 
width  can  then  be  cut  in  one  operation.  Start  cut¬ 
ting  at  the  center  of  the  space  marked  otf  for  a 
mortise,  holding  the  chisel  with  the  bevel  of  the 
blade  toward  you,  as  shown  in  Figure  339.  Drive 
the  chisel  into  the  wood  to  a  depth  of  %  inch  or  so, 
withdraw  the  blade,  set  it  about  %  inch  back  of  the 
cut,  and  drive  it  in  again;  reset  and  drive  it  in  a 
third  time,  a  fourth  time,  and  so  on  until  the  end 
of  the  mortise  has  been  reached.  Pry  out  the 
wood  between  the  cuts,  as  you  proceed.  Having 
cut  from  the  center  to  one  end,  start  at  the  center 
again  and  work  to  the  other  end  of  the  mortise. 
Working  over  the  surface  a  second  time,  increase  the 
depth  of  the  mortise  another  %  inch.  Three-quar¬ 
ters  of  an  inch  is  deep  enough  for  mortises  for  brace 
blocks  C,  but  the  mortises  for  the  ends  of  rails  E  and 
F  should  be  1 %  inches  deep.  Figure  340  shows  how 
to  square  up  the  ends  of  the  mortise  with  the  flat 
side  of  the  chisel.  The  mortise  for  the  end  of  base 
rail  E  must  be  1%  inches  wide.  A  chisel  narrower 
than  this  can  be  used  for  cutting  it. 

The  Horizontal  Hails .  The  widths  of  base  rail  E 
and  hook  rail  F  are  shown  in  Figure  337.  The 
length  for  a  rack  with  twenty-five  hooks  on  a  side 
should  be  6  feet  8  inches.  This  allows  1%  inches 
at  each  end  to  set  into  the  post  mortises.  The  upper 
corner  of  hook  rail  F  must  be  cut  away,  as  shown  in 
Figure  338,  to  fit  around  plate  D.  Fasten  the  rails 
in  the  mortises  with  glue. 


238  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

The  Hat-racks  have  l-by-2-ineh  bars,  the  lower 
ones  (H,  Fig.  337)  supported  on  top  plates  D,  the  up¬ 
per  ones  (I,  Fig.  337)  on  two  end  brackets  (G).  Cut 
the  brackets  of  the  shape  and  size  shown,  out  of  a 
%-:mch  board.  Notice  by  Figure  336  that  the  lower 
bars  fit  between  brackets  G.  Space  the  bars  as 
shown  and  nail  them  in  place. 

The  Hooks  should  be  of  the  type  shown  in  Figure 
341.  Draw  two  lines  lengthwise  of  the  hook  rail  F, 


Fig.  341  Fig.  342 

Fig.  341.  use  strong  iron  hooks  of  this  form 
Fig.  342.  the  casters  should  be  large  and  ball-bearing 

one  line  along  the  center  of  the  board,  the  other  half¬ 
way  between  this  line  and  the  lower  edge.  On  the 
upper  line  mark  off  the  positions  for  twelve  hooks, 
on  the  lower  line  positions  for  thirteen.  Make  the 
spacing  exactly  6  inches  from  center  to  center  of 
the  hooks.  Stagger  the  hooks  on  one  side  of  the 
board  so  their  screws  will  not  strike  those  of  the 
hooks  on  the  opposite  side. 

The  Casters  should  be  2  inches  in  diameter  and 
ball-bearing.  Screw  them  to  runner  blocks  B  near 
the  ends  (Fig.  336). 

Check  Numbers  can  be  purchased  of  metal  or  card¬ 
board  for  numbering  the  coat  hooks.  Tack  them  di¬ 
rectly  above  the  coat  hooks  as  shown  in  Figure  336. 


FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM 


239 


Fig.  345. 


FiG.  343.  THE  SHOE-POLISHING  CASE  WILL  BE  IN  BIG  DEMAND  IN  RAINY 

WEATHER 

Fig.  344.  use  a  square,  or  nearly  square,  soap  box  for  the  top 
Fig.  345.  MAKE  THE  LEGS  LIKE  THIS 
Fig.  346.  THESE  BLOCKS  FORM  THE  SHOE-REST 


240  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

Buy  a  duplicate  set  of  numbers  to  issue  in  checking. 
The  place  for  the  hat  is  directly  over  the  coat  hook — 
the  upper  rack  for  even  numbers,  the  lower  one  for 
odd  numbers. 

Finish  the  Rack  with  stain  and  shellac  or  paint. 

A  WHISK-BROOM  HOLDER 

A  coat-room  attendant  has  frequent  requests  for  a 
whisk-broom,  and  a  holder  for  one  will  be  a  good 
piece  of  equipment  to  provide.  You  will  find  a  plan 
for  a  holder  in  Figure  59,  Chapter  III. 

A  SHOE-POLISHING  CASE 

A  muddy  street  crossing,  an  unnoticed  or  unavoid¬ 
able  puddle,  and  splashes  from  a  passing  automobile 
ruin  many  a  shoe-shine  between  home  and  church. 
A  first-aid  polishing-case  with  rags,  brushes,  and 
cans  of  polish  will  relieve  victims  of  the  embarrass¬ 
ment  of  attending  services  with  shoes  unkempt ;  and 
such  a  case  should  be  a  part  of  the  equipment  of  the 
coat-room. 

The  Box.  A  soap-box  measuring  13  inches  wide, 
14  inches  long  and  8  inches  deep  (Fig.  344)  was  used 
for  the  shoe-polishing  case  shown  in  Figure  343. 
This  is  a  standard  size  of  box,  and  you  can  pick  up 
one  at  the  grocery  store  if  there  isn’t  one  at  home. 

The  Legs  are  ripped  out  of  a  %-inch  board.  Each 
is  built  up  of  two  strips  (Fig.  345).  Cut  strip  A 
2  inches  wide  and  B  1%  inches  wide,  and  make  their 
length  16  inches.  Nail  the  strips  together,  then  nail 


FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM  241 

them  to  the  corners  of  the  box,  as  shown  in  Figure 
343. 

The  Top  is  made  of  two  %-inch  hoards,  one  nailed 
to  the  box,  the  other  hinged  to  open.  Cut  the  pieces 
of  the  right  size  to  have  a  projection  of  %  inch  over 
the  faces  of  the  leg  strips.  Set  a  pair  of  hinges  in 
the  edges  of  the  pieces,  as  shown  in  Figure  343. 

The  Shoe-rest  fastened  to  the  under  side  of  the 
cover  is  made  of  two  blocks  (C  and  D,  Fig.  346). 
Nail  them  together,  then  nail  or  screw  them  to  the 
hinged  cover  board. 

Compartments  for  cans  of  cleaner  and  polish, 
shoe-brushes,  and  rags  can  be  partitioned  oft  inside 
of  the  box  with  box  boards. 

Finishing .  The  shoe-polishing  case  can  be 
stained,  painted  or  enameled.  A  dark  color  is  pref¬ 
erable,  of  course,  because  it  will  not  show  soiling. 

A  WASTE-BASKET 

The  coat-room  requires  a  waste-basket,  and  so 
does  the  minister’s  study,  the  reading-room,  and  the 
Sunday  school  rooms.  There  are  seldom  enough  of 
these  receptacles  in  the  church  building. 

The  Material  for  the  waste-basket  shown  in  Fig¬ 
ure  347  consists  of  wallboard  for  the  sides,  a  %-inch 
board  for  the  bottom,  strips  %-inch  square  for  cor¬ 
ner  posts,  and  laths  for  cleats  and  rim  strips. 

Figure  348  shows  a  plan  of  the  basket,  with  its 
parts  lettered.  Cut  the  wallboard  sides  A  and  B  by 
the  patterns  of  Figures  349  and  350.  You  can  saw 
wallboard  as  easily  as  boards.  Sawing  will  make 


242  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


rough  edges,  but  these  can  be  removed  quickly  by 
rubbing  with  sandpaper.  Cut  the  corner  posts  C 
by  the  pattern  of  Figure  351. 

To  assemble  the  basket,  first  tack  wallboard  sides 
A  to  posts  C,  as  shown  in  Fig.  349 ;  then  cut  a  pair 


Fig.  347.  there  is  need  of  several 
of  these  wallboard  waste-bas¬ 
kets  IN  THE  church  building 


of  lath  cleats  (D,  Fig.  352),  fit  them  between  posts 
C  and  tack  sides  A  to  them  (Fig.  349).  Next,  tack 
sides  B  to  the  posts,  being  careful  to  set  their  edges 
exactly  even  with  the  edges  of  sides  A,  which  they 
overlap.  Cut  the  bottom  board  by  the  pattern  of 
Figure  355,  notching  the  corners  to  fit  around  the 


FOR  THE  COAT-ROOM 


243 


posts.  This  board  rests  upon  the  cleats  D  and  is 
fastened  with  carpet  tacks  driven  through  the  side 
pieces  into  its  edges.  Cut  the  rim  strips  by  the  pat- 


Fig.  355 


Fig.  349 


li 3* 


o 


ftl 


£ 


o 


Si- 


L 

D 

D- 

✓ 

.□  

r 

Fig.  348 

Fig.  351 


-f 

3> 

"1 

* — 

-  8"— 

— >i 

]  [ 


j  t - 


10’*- 


Fig.  350 


ut\ — - 

c 

"Ir 

01” 

G 

n 

»  or, — 

— j 

Fig.  252  Fig.  353  Fig.  354 

FlG.  348.  PLAN  OF  WALLBOARD  WASTE-BASKET 

Figs.  349  and  350.  patterns  for  wallboard  sides 
Figs.  351-354.  patterns  for  framework  strips 
Fig.  355.  bottom  board 


terns  of  Figures  353  and  354,  fasten  them  to  the  cor¬ 
ner  posts,  and  tack  the  wallboard  to  them. 

Finishing.  Give  the  wallboard  two  coats  of  paint. 
Then  apply  two  coats  of  enamel  to  all  surfaces.  If 
you  have  had  any  experience  in  stenciling,  you  might 
stencil  a  design  on  the  sides  of  the  basket. 


Chapter  XX 

BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS 

A  Fancywork  Booth — A  Pergola  Booth — A  Flower  Booth — An 
Ice-Cream  Booth — An  Old-Well  Grab-Booth — Knock-Down 
Booths — A  Handicraft  Booth. 

The  annual  church  fair  will  provide  work  for  all 
willing  to  devote  time  and  energy  to  it,  and  you  and 
the  other  boys  of  the  Sunday  school  can  be  impor¬ 
tant  factors  in  its  success.  In  the  first  place,  you  can 
construct  the  booths.  That  will  be  a  service  that 
the  ladies  are  not  keen  about  performing  and 
that  the  men  seldom  have  time  for.  In  addition, 
you  can  make  pieces  of  handicraft  for  the  sale,  and 
what  is  more  your  class  can  rig  up  a  booth  in  which 
to  sell  toys  and  gifts  that  you  have  made. 

Among  the  various  forms  of  booths  to  be  found 
at  fairs  may  be  mentioned  those  for  fancywork, 
handkerchiefs,  baby  clothes,  mending,  notions,  novel¬ 
ties,  toilet  articles,  candy,  refreshments,  groceries, 
girls’  handicraft,  boys’  handicraft,  books  and  maga¬ 
zines,  flowers  and  plants,  and  bird  houses  and  gar¬ 
den  accessories. 

The  number  of  booths  will  be  dependent  upon  the 
size  of  the  hall  the  fair  is  to  be  held  in  and  the 
amount  of  cooperation  to  be  given  the  bazaar  com¬ 
mittee  by  church  members.  The  form  may  be  as 
varied  as  the  articles  to  be  sold.  I  have  seen  square 

244 


Fig.  356.  A  FANCY  WORK  BOOTH 


Fig.  359.  an  ice-cream 

BOOTH 


Fig.  360.  AN  OLD-WELL  GRAB-BOOTH 


©  DENNISON  MFG.  CO. 


[Facing  page  244 


BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS 


245 


booths,  round  booths,  and  booths  of  irregular  shape ; 
old-well  and  fish-pond  grab-booths ;  booths  built  like 
a  large  doll’s  house,  and  in  the  form  of  a  Dutch 
windmill,  a  gypsy  camp,  a  cave,  a  pavilion;  booths 
representative  of  different  nationalities ;  others  typi¬ 
fying  the  seasons  of  the  year;  Mother  Goose  booths; 
and  booths  rigged  up  on  carts  (A  Push-cart  Pair). 

Several  clever  designs  for  easily-built  booths  are 
shown  in  the  sketches  opposite  page  244.  These  are 
reproduced  by  courtesy  of  Dennison  Manufacturing 
Company,*  makers  of  crepe  papers  and  other  ma¬ 
terials  necessary  for  dressing  up  booth  frameworks 
and  for  decorating  the  hall.  I  shall  give  you  a  few 
suggestions  for  constructing  these  booths. 

A  FANCY  WORK  BOOTH 

The  L-shaped  booth  shown  in  Figure  356  is  a  good 
one  to  set  up  in  a  corner  of  the  hall.  By  pressing 
into  service  two  of  the  church  tables  and  placing 
them  at  right  angles  for  counters,  it  will  only  be  nec¬ 
essary  to  erect  corner  posts  to  support  the  overhead 
decorations.  For  posts  get  2-by-2  inch  material, 
s-4-s  (surfaced-four-sides)  at  a  lumberyard.  Four¬ 
teen-foot  lengths  cut  in  half  will  be  about  right. 
Wire  these  posts  to  the  table-legs.  A  wooden  strip 
fitted  between  the  posts  at  the  floor  will  furnish  a 
ground  to  tack  material  to  for  enclosing  the  front  of 
the  counter. 


*  A  helpful  booklet,  “How  to  Decorate  Halls,  Booths  and  Automo¬ 
biles,”  can  be  obtained  from  Dennison  Manufacturing  Co.,  Framing¬ 
ham,  Mass.,  for  ten  cents. 


246  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  PERGOLA  BOOTH 

The  design  shown  in  Figure  357  will  introduce 
some  outdoor  atmosphere.  Two  tables,  four  4-by-4 
posts,  two  2-by-4  beams,  and  half  a  dozen  or  so  1-by- 
2  strips  for  purlins,  are  needed.  It  is  not  likely  that 
you  will  be  permitted  to  nail  the  corner  posts  to  the 
floor.  In  that  case,  it  will  be  necessary  to  place  a  2- 
by-4  floor  plate  around  the  base  to  spike  the  posts  to, 
or  to  stand  the  tables  in  the  right  positions  so  the 
posts  can  be  fastened  to  their  corners.  Vines  and 
flowers  for  decorating  the  pergola  can  be  made  of 
crepe-paper  or  purchased  ready-made. 

A  FLOWER  BOOTH 

A  booth  like  that  in  Figure  358  can  be  rigged  up 
on  a  small  table;  or  boards  placed  across  a  pair  of 
horses,  as  shown  in  Figure  361,  may  be  used  for  the 
counter.  Heavy  wires  bent  into  loops  make  good 
arches  to  decorate  with  vines  and  flowers.  Bend  the 
ends  of  the  wire  loops  as  shown  in  Figure  361  and 
fasten  them  to  the  edges  of  the  table  boards.  Lat¬ 
tice  strips  can  be  substituted  for  the  wire  arches. 
The  strips  will  bend  readily  into  the  shape  desired 
after  soaking  for  a  short  time  in  water. 

AN  ICE-CREAM  BOOTH 

Two  or  three  small  refreshment  booths  like  that 
shown  in  Figure  359  generally  realize  a  larger  sales 
total  than  one  large  booth.  The  counter  may  be  a 


BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS  247 

table,  or  may  be  built  up  of  boards  and  horses,  as 
shown  in  Figure  361.  The  large  ice-cream  cones 
can  be  made  of  heavy  brown  wrapping-paper,  rolled 
into  cornucopias,  and  reenforced  on  the  inside  with 
laths.  Crushed  white  crepe-paper  makes  good  imi- 


Fig.  361.  boards  on  horses  make  good  tables  for  booths 
Make  the  framework  for  the  booth  shown  in  Fig.  358  like  this 


tation  ice-cream.  The  small  cones  can  be  made  simi¬ 
larly  or  may  be  ice-cream  cones.  Dark  brown,  pink 
and  white  are  good  colors  to  use  for  decorating  the 
booth.  Strips  of  “icicles”  like  those  shown  along 
the  front  of  the  table  can  be  cut  out  of  white  paper. 
The  “ice-cream  bricks”  on  the  face  of  the  counter 
are  candy-boxes  painted  to  represent  layers  of  dif¬ 
ferent  flavors  of  ice-cream. 


248  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


A  1ST  OLD-WELL  GEAB-BOOTH 


For  this  ever-popular  and  consequently  profitable 
type  of  booth,  the  old-well  adaptation  shown  in 


Fig.  362.  DETAIL  OF  WELL  FOR  BOOTH  SHOWN  IN  FIGURE  360 

Figure  360  is  worth  the  trouble  of  building.  The  de¬ 
tail  of  the  completed  well  (Fig.  362),  and  the  detail 


BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS  249 

of  the  completed  framework  (Fig.  363),  show  exactly 
how  to  set  up  the  booth. 

Material .  The  framework  of  the  well  requires 
two  2-by-2s  6  feet  long  for  posts  A,  three  pieces  of 
lattice-strip  16  feet  long,  or  six  pieces  8  feet  long,  for 
hoops  B  for  the  well-curb  and  the  roof,  and  laths  for 
uprights  C  of  the  curb  framework  and  roof  rafters 
D. 

The  Well-curb .  Bend  the  lattice-strips  into  hoops 
about  5  feet  in  diameter,  and  fasten  the  ends  to¬ 
gether  with  brads.  Nail  two  of  these  hoops  to  posts 
A,  one  at  the  floor,  the  other  3  feet  above  the  floor. 
Then  cut  the  six  lath  uprights  C  3  feet  long  and  fas¬ 
ten  them  to  the  curb  hoops,  spacing  them  equidis- 
tantly.  Cover  the  curb  framework  with  building- 
paper  or  heavy  wrapping-paper. 

The  Roof  is  framed  with  eight  or  nine  laths  3 
feet  9  inches  long.  Drill  holes  through  the  peak  ends 
of  the  laths,  run  a  piece  of  wire  through  the  holes, 
and  twist  the  wire  ends  together.  Drill  another  hole 
through  each  lath  8  inches  from  the  lower  end,  and 
run  a  wire  through  each  hole  for  wiring  the  laths  to 
the  rafter  hoop  B. 

The  roof  framework  must  be  covered  with  build¬ 
ing-paper  or  wrapping-paper.  Then  build  it  up  with 
paper  until  the  rafters  no  longer  show  through,  and 
the  surface  is  as  nearly  conical  as  you  can  make  it. 
A  top  covering  of  paper  should  then  be  added. 

The  Windlass  is  made  of  a  curtain-pole  (E,  Fig. 
364),  a  short  block  (F)  and  a  dowel-stick  or  other 
stick  (G).  Bore  a  hole  through  each  post  4  feet 
above  the  base,  through  which  to  run  the  shaft  of 


250  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


E 

✓ 


Fig.  364 


Fig.  363 


FlG.  363.  DETAIL  OF  FRAMEWORK  OF  WELL  BOOTH 
FlG.  364.  DETAIL  OF  WINDLASS 
Fig.  365.  PULLEY  FOR  WELL  ROPE 


BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS 


251 


the  windlass.  Drill  holes  for  pins  to  keep  the  shaft 
•  from  pulling  through  the  post  holes  when  set  in  posi¬ 
tion.  Nails  can  be  used  for  pins. 

The  Old  Oaken  Bucket  may  be  a  wooden  pail  or  a 
tin  pail  covered  with  bark.  Use  a  piece  of  clothes¬ 
line  for  the  well  rope,  and  fasten  a  clothes-line  pul¬ 
ley  (H,  Figs.  363  and  365)  in  the  peak  of  the  roof 
for  it  to  run  over. 

Finishing.  The  roof  of  the  well  may  be  left  plain, 
as  shown  in  Figure  362,  or  it  may  be  shingled,  as 
shown  in  Figure  360.  Shingles  may  be  cut  out  of 
building-paper  or  cardboard.  Paint  the  well-curb 
gray  for  masonry,  and  indicate  field  stones  by  mark¬ 
ing  off  the  interstices  with  black  paint.  Figure  360 
suggests  how  the  curb  and  posts  may  be  decorated 
with  artificial,  hollyhocks  and  vines. 

The  interior  of  the  well  must  be  blocked  off  except 
at  the  center  to  conceal  the  person  who  puts  in  the 
“grabs.”  The  covering  may  be  made  of  wallboard 
painted  to  look  like  water. 

KNOCK-DOWN  BOOTHS 

Inasmuch  as  booths  are  required  at  least  once  a 
year  by  the  average  church,  a  scheme  for  a  knock¬ 
down  framework  would  save  considerable  time  and 
confusion  in  getting  the  hall  ready  for  a  bazaar. 

Pipe  Frameworks  are  excellent,  not  only  for  coun¬ 
ters  but  also  for  canopies.  I  have  seen  all  of  the 
booths  at  a  bazaar  made  in  this  manner,  and  there 
seems  to  be  no  limit  to  the  variety  of  designs  that 
can  be  devised.  With  the  pipe  cut  to  two  of  three 


252  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

lengths,  or  not  to  exceed  half  a  dozen,  and  with  the 
proper  assortment  of  fittings,  the  matter  of  assem¬ 
bling  a  booth  framework  is  reduced  to  as  simple  a 
formula  as  that  for  setting  up  a  smaller  framework 
of  Meccano  or  other  toy-construction  material. 

The  only  possible  objection  to  the  use  of  pipe 
would  be  its  cost.  Under  fortunate  circumstances 
this  might  be  eliminated  or  reduced  considerably 
through  large  discounts.  Boards  are  required  in 
addition  to  the  pipe  and  fittings,  but  these  as  well  as 
the  material  for  enclosing  the  frameworks  can  be 
used  from  year  to  year,  if  packed  away  with  the 
pipe. 

Wooden  Frameworks  can  be  designed  and  built  to 
set  up  and  bolt  together  in  sections,  and  if  there  is 
room  in  the  church  building  for  the  storage  of 
“knock-down”  frames,  this  is  the  most  economical 
form  of  framework. 

A  HANDICRAFT  BOOTH 

The  booth  shown  in  the  photograph  of  Figure  366 
is  a  good  “knock-down”  model.  It  is  well  adapted 
to  the  display  of  articles  that  a  boys’  class  has  made 
for  the  bazaar,  but  it  will  serve  for  other  lines,  too. 
In  fact,  with  the  corner-post  bird-houses  eliminated, 
the  design  might  be  used  for  all  of  the  main  booths. 
Figure  367  shows  a  detail  of  the  completed  frame¬ 
work,  with  parts  lettered  to  correspond  with  the 
other  working-drawings.  Figure  368  shows  a  detail 
of  the  front  and  rear  frame  sections  of  the  frame¬ 
work;  Figure  370  shows  a  detail  of  the  four  upper 


Fig.  366.  a  knock-down”  booth  like  this  can  be  preserved  from 

YEAR  TO  YEAR 


[ Facing  page  252 


BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS  253 

lattice-work  panels,  two  of  which  are  used  in  the 
front  and  rear  frames,  and  two  for  joining  these 


Fig.  367.  FRAMEWORK  OF  THE  BOOTH  SHOWN  IN  THE  PHOTOGRAPH  OF 

FIGURE  366 


frames  at  the  sides ;  Figure  371  shows  a  detail  of  the 
two  lower  side  frames. 

The  Material  For  corner  posts  A,  plates  B  and 
braces  C  buy  2-by-2s ;  for  strips  D  and  E  of  the  lat¬ 
tice-work  panels  buy  l-by-2s  (Fig.  369),  for  diago- 


254  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


nals  F  laths  or  lattice-strips  (Fig.  370),  for  counters 
I  12-inch  boards,  and  for  shelves  J  8-inch  boards. 


Fig.  368.  DETAIL  OF  FRONT  AND  REAR  FRAMES  OF  THE  FRAMEWORK 

FOR  THE  “KNOCK-DOWN”  BOOTH 

These  pieces  should  be  ordered  surfaced-four-sides, 
so  you  will  not  have  to  bother  planing  them.  It  will 
be  best  to  use  soft  pine,  or  other  light-weight  easily 
worked  wood. 


BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS 


255 


The  Front  and  Rear  Frames  should  be  built  first, 
as  shown  in  the  detail  of  Figure  368.  With  the 
pieces  cut  to  the  lengths  marked,  fasten  plates  B  be¬ 
tween  posts  A  with  10-penny  finishing  nails,  at  the 
heights  shown.  Then  cut  the  diagonal  braces  C  with 
their  ends  mitered,  and  nail  them  to  the  corner  posts 
and  to  the  counter  plate. 


~T 

l—E  ,  E-* 

J 

<S) 

• 

L  .  .  6-8-'  - . 

1 

Fig.  369.  FRAME  FOR  LATTICE-WORK  PANEL 


The  Lattice-work  Panels  require  a  frame  built  up 
of  the  l-by-2-inch  strips  D  and  E  (Fig.  369).  Cut 
the  lattice-strips  F  with  mitered  ends ;  also,  cut  two 
blocks  of  wood  for  spacing  them  at  equal  distances 
apart.  Nail  one  layer  of  strips  to  the  frame  slant- 


FlG.  370.  DETAIL  OF  LATTICE-WORK  PANEL 

ing  in  one  direction,  then  a  second  layer  on  top  of 
them  slanting  in  the  opposite  direction,  as  shown  in 
Figure.  370.  Make  four  panels.  Place  one  between 
the  upper  ends  of  the  front  frame,  another  between 
the  upper  ends  of  the  rear  frame,  and  fasten  with 


256  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

finishing-nails  and  a  pair  of  2-by-2  inch  iron  braces 
(H,  Fig.  368). 

The  Side  Frames .  Two  of  the  lattice-woidypanels, 
and  a  pair  of  frames  built  up  as  shown  in  Figure  371 
of  strips  B  and  G  braced  with  the  diagonals  C,  con- 


FlG.  371.  FRAME  FOR  CONNECTING  FRONT  AND  REAR  FRAMES 


nect  the  front  and  rear  frames.  To  provide  for  bolt¬ 
ing  the  sections  together,  bore  two  ^4-inch  holes 
through  each  end  of  the  side  panel  frames  and  two 
through  each  of  the  lower  side  frames;  also,  bore 


FlG.  372.  DISPLAY  SHELF 


holes  through  posts  A,  taking  measurements  from 
the  side  frames  to  locate  the  holes  in  corresponding 
positions.  Eight  2-inch  stove-bolts  will  be  required, 
but  you  had  better  buy  a  dozen  so  there  will  be  some 
on  hand  to  replace  bolts  lost. 


BOOTHS  FOR  CHURCH  BAZAARS 


257 


The  Counters  require  12-inch  boards,  two  as  long 
as  the  over-all  width  of  the  booth,  for  the  front  and 
rear  counters  (I,  Fig.  373)  and  two  shorter  pieces  to 
fit  between  them  for  the  side  counters.  Fasten  these 
boards  to  the  framework  plates  with  screws,  and  to 
each  other  with  angle  braces,  so  they  can  be  removed 
without  damaging  them. 

The  Display  Shelves  (J,  Figs.  368  and  372)  are 
made  of  8-inch  boards  of  the  length  of  the  lattice- 
work  panels.  Round  the  corners  as  shown,  and  screw 
a  shelf  to  the  upper  edge  of  each  panel. 


Fig.  373.  counter  board 

The  Bird-House  Caps  for  the  posts  may  be  built 
like  the  wren  house  described  in  Chapter  VII,  or  ac¬ 
cording  to  any  plan  you  prefer.  These  houses  may 
be  tagged  for  sale  with  the  other  articles  exhibited 
in  the  booth. 

Finishing.  The  framework  of  the  booth  may  be 
stained  or  painted.  I  would  suggest  that  you  stain 
it  brown  or  green.  Enclose  the  sides  below  the  coun¬ 
ter  with  denim  or  burlap,  tacking  the  material  to  the 
corner  posts,  the  counter  edges  and  the  lower  plates. 
Decorate  the  lattice-work  panels  with  leaves  pro¬ 
cured  in  the  woods  or  made  of  crepe-paper. 


Chapter  XXI 

A  SANTA  CLAUS  FIREPLACE  AND  A 

TREE  BASE 

A  Fireplace  and  Mantel — A  Realistic  Fire  Effect — A  Cross 
Standard  for  a  Christmas  Tree — A  Box  Standard. 

It  is  worth  while  to  build  a  fireplace  for  Santa 
Claus  to  make  his  entrance  through  at  the  Christmas 
Sunday  school  entertainment,  because  it  can  be  kept 
from  year  to  year,  and  its  usefulness  need  not  pass 
with  the  holidays.  It  is  a  good  stage  property  for 
interior  scenes  in  Sunday  school  dramatics.  Of 
course,  a  grate-fire  is  not  wanted  for  Santa  Claus, 
but  when  the  fireplace  is  used  in  other  stage  settings, 
a  realistic  fire  effect  is  desirable,  and  it  can  be  easily 
produced,  as  I  shall  explain  later. 

A  FIREPLACE  AND  MANTEL 

The  mantel  shown  in  Figure  374  has  been  designed 
to  stand  against  a  wall,  but  to  enable  Santa  Claus 
to  enter  the  fireplace  through  the  back,  you  can  stand 
it  against  a  doorway,  concealing  the  upper  part  of 
the  opening  with  wallboard  or  a  drapery;  or  you 
can  construct  a  wallboard  chimney-breast  from  the 
mantel-shelf  to  the  ceiling,  setting  this  far  enough 
from  the  wall  to  make  a  place  of  concealment  be¬ 
hind  the  mantel  for  Santa  Claus. 

258 


A  SANTA  CLAUS  FIREPLACE 


259 


The  Mantel  Framework  is  shown  in  Figure  375. 
The  height  for  the  shelf  of  the  model  illustrated  is  4 
feet,  the  width  of  the  mantel  is  4  feet  6  inches;  the 
jamb  each  side  of  the  fireplace  opening  is  9  inches; 


J_ l 


Fig.  374.  this  santa  claus  fireplace  and  mantel  can 

ALSO  BE  USED  AS  A  PROPERTY  FOR  PLAYS 


the  height  of  the  fireplace  opening  is  30  inches.  You 
can  vary  these  dimensions,  however,  as  you  see  fit. 

Make  the  mantel  ends  of  boards  10  inches  wide 
(A),  the  shelf  (B)  of  two  boards  of  the  right  width 
and  length  to  make  a  projection  of  3  inches  over  the 


260  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 

front  and  ends.  Nail  the  shelf  boards  to  the  end 
pieces,  then  cut  the  l-by-2  crosspieces  C  to  fit  be¬ 
tween  the  end  boards,  and  fasten  one  directly  below 
the  shelf,  die  other  at  the  height  of  the  fireplace 


Fig.  375.  build  the  mantel  framework  like  this 

opening.  Cut  the  l-by-2  strips  D  to  fit  between  the 
ower  crosspiece  C  and  the  floor,  at  the  sides  of  the 

between0  ^  ^  2'by'4  bI°cks  E  to  fit 

between  their  lower  ends  and  end  boards  A.  A 

board  4  inches  wide  by  the  length  of  the  shelf  (F) 


A  SANTA  CLAUS  FIREPLACE  26 1 

fastened  to  the  back  edge  of  the  shelf,  will  complete 
the  framework. 

Make  the  mantel  front  of  one  piece  of  wallboard 
(Fig.  376).  Place  the  piece  against  the  framework 
and  mark  off  the  fireplace  opening  on  it.  Cut  out 
the  opening  with  a  saw  or  a  jack-knife.  It  will  be 


Fig.  376.  WALLBOARD  FACING  OF  MANTEL 


best  to  fit  and  tack  a  strip  of  wallboard  to  each  end 
board  of  the  mantel,  also. 

The  Fireplace .  Make  the  back  and  ends  of  this  of 
three  pieces  of  wallboard  fastened  to  pieces  of  l-by-2 
(Fig.  377).  Make  this  only  as  high  as  is  necessary 
to  keep  the  audience  from  seeing  over  it.  Extend  it 
back  far  enough  so  that  Santa  Claus  can  easily  step 
over  it  from  back  of  the  mantel,  in  making  his  en¬ 
trance. 

A  Hearth  may  be  made  of  a  piece  of  wallboard, 
marked  off  to  represent  brick  or  tile. 


262  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


The  Brickwork  should  be  painted  a  good  brick  red. 
A  paint  dealer  will  help  you  in  the  selection  of  the 
shade.  Give  the  wallboard  two  coats  of  this.  Then 
mark  off  the  mortar  joints  with  a  pencil  and  a  yard¬ 
stick,  or  other  straight-edge,  and  strike  the  joints 
with  black  paint. 


Fig.  377.  MAKE  THE  BACK  OF  THE  FIREPLACE  LIKE  THIS 


When  the  brickwork  has  been  painted,  finish  the 
shelf  to  match  the  woodwork  of  the  room  in  which 
the  mantel  is  used. 

A  REALISTIC  FIRE  EFFECT 

When  the  fireplace  is  used  for  stage  settings,  a 
good  fire  effect  is  easily  produced  with  an  electric 
drop-cord  and  photographer’s  ruby-lamp,  or  with  an 
ordinary  electric-light  lamp  covered  with  red  cloth 
but  not  brought  into  direct  contact  with  the  cloth. 
The  lamp  must  be  placed  on  the  bottom  of  the  fire- 


A  SANTA  CLAUS  FIREPLACE 


263 


place,  and  firewood  piled  around  and  over  it.  If  you 
can  borrow  a  set  of  andirons  to  support  the  logs,  so 
much  the  better. 

Glowing  Embers  may  be  simulated  with  a  sign- 
flasher  and  a  clear  and  a  ruby  lamp,  the  latter  con¬ 
nected  with  the  flasher.  The  flashing  on  and  off  of 
the  ruby  lamp  will  produce  the  desired  effect. 


Fig.  378.  THE  CROSS  STANDARD  for  a  tree 


Flames  may  be  simulated  with  red  ribbon  and  an 
electric-fan.  Fasten  short  lengths  of  the  ribbon  to 
the  “ burning”  logs  and  place  the  electric-fan  below 
the  logs  to  make  the  ribbons  flutter. 

A  CROSS  STANDARD  FOR  A  CHRISTMAS  TREE 

If  your  church  owns  one  of  the  latest  types  of  re¬ 
volving  bases  for  its  Christmas  tree,  or  any  of  the 
approved  iron  bases,  there  will  be  no  need  of  a  home- 


264  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


made  base  like  that  shown  in  Figure  378  unless  you 
decide  to  set  up  more  than  one  tree,  or  your  class 
“goodfellow”  plans  include  the  trimming  of  a  tree 
for  a  needy  family. 

In  case  a  base  is  required,  the  cross  type  of 
wooden  standard  is  probably  the  easiest  to  make. 
This  base  requires  two  pieces  of  2-by-4  20  inches 
long  (A  and  B,  Fig.  379)  halved  together — that  is,  a 


Fig.  379  Fig.  380 

Figs.  379  and  380.  details  of  the  cross  standard 


piece  is  cut  from  the  center  of  each  block.equal  to  the 
width  of,  and  one-half  of  the  thickness  of,  the  other 
piece,  as  shown  in  Figure  380,  so  the  pieces  will  in¬ 
terlock.  Saw  along  the  sides  of  the  notches,  then 
split  out  the  wood  between  the  saw  cuts  with  a  chisel. 
The  hole  for  the  tree  should  be  at  least  2  inches  in 
diameter.  If  you  haven’t  an  expansive  bit  that  you 
can  set  to  cut  a  hole  of  this  diameter,  bore  a  ring  of 
small  holes,  and  trim  up  to  the  2-inch  diameter  with 
a  chisel.  Nail  the  shoe-blocks  C  to  the  under  side  of 
A  and  B,  at  the  ends.  It  is  not  necessary  to  nail  A 
to  B  if  you  make  them  fit  snugly. 


A  SANTA  CLAUS  FIREPLACE 


265 


Finish  the  standard  green  or  red  with  stain  made 
of  oil  paint  thinned  with  turpentine. 


A  BOX  STANDARD  FOB  THE  TREE 

The  tree  base>shown  in  Figure  381  requires  a  soap¬ 
box  (Fig.  382)  and  four  pairs  of  strips  crossed  and 
nailed  together  to  form  two  sockets  like  that  shown 
in  Figure  383.  Make  one  socket  to  fasten  in  the  box 


Fig.  381.  a  box  standard  for  a  tree 


bottom,  the  other  to  fasten  across  the  top  edges  of 
the  box  (Fig.  384).  Space  the  strips  so  that  there 
will  be  an  opening  of  1%  or  2,  inches  square  to  ac¬ 
commodate  the  tree  trunk.  If  the  tree  proves  to  be 
smaller  than  the  socket  opening,  drive  in  wedges 
around  it;  if  it  is  larger,  whittle  away  the  edges  of 
the  strips  as  much  as  is  necessary  to  accommodate 
the  tree  trunk. 

Finishing.  When  the  base  has  been  assembled, 
cover  the  sides  of  the  box  with  red  paper.  Paper 
with  a  brick  pattern  printed  on  it  can  be  purchased, 


266  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


or  you  can  use  plain  red  paper  and  indicate  brick 
courses  and  joints  by  pasting  strips  of  white  paper 
to  it.  The  snow-capped  top  of  the  base  is  formed 


Fig.  384 

Figs.  382-384.  details  of  the  box  standard 

of  cotton  with  artificial  snow  sprinkled  over  it.  Of 
course,  this  cannot  be  put  on  until  after  the  tree  has 
been  set  up. 


INDEX 


INDEX 


A 

Absent  member  reminders,  186 ; 
startling  reminder,  186;  fire¬ 
cracker  report  card,  188. 

Animals,  cork,  27. 

Animals  and  birds  for  Noah’s 
ark,  74 ;  working  material, 
74;  cutting,  74;  mounting, 
75;  coloring,  75. 

Ark,  Noah’s,  68;  material,  68; 
laying  out  and  cutting  the 
parts,  69;  assembling,  70; 
roof,  72;  mounting,  72;  fin¬ 
ishing,  72;  birds  and  ani¬ 
mals,  74;  working  material, 
74;  cutting,  74;  mounting, 
75;  coloring,  75. 

Attendance  awards,  174,  185. 

Attendance  booster  tags,  185. 

Attendance  thermometers  and 
dials,  194;  new  member  con¬ 
tests,  194;  how  to  make  an 
attendance  thermometer,  196 ; 
two-tube  contest  thermom¬ 
eter,  199 ;  attendance  dial, 
200. 

B 

Backwards  social  invitation, 
189. 

Banks  and  contribution  boxes, 
203;  mite  box,  203;  contribu¬ 
tion  box,  204;  large  contri¬ 
bution  box,  209. 


Banners,  pennants,  staffs  and 
bases,  166;  staffs,  166;  four- 

wing  base,  168 ;  base  with 

pipe-fitting  socket,  168 ;  small 
staff  and  base  for  a  table, 
172;  small  base  for  a  pen¬ 
nant,  173;  spool  base,  173; 

finishing  staffs  and  bases, 
173 ;  perfect  attendance 
awards,  174;  banners  and 
pennants,  174;  star  banner, 
174;  concrete  base  for  a  flag, 
178 ;  round  concrete  base, 
178. 

Base,  a  four-wing  banner  and. 
pennant,  168;  with  pipe-fit¬ 
ting  socket,  168;  for  table, 
172 ;  small,  for  pennant,  173 ; 
spool,  173 ;  finishing,  173 ; 
concrete,  for  flag,  178 ;  round 
concrete,  178. 

Basket,  waste-,  241 ;  material, 
241;  assembling,  242;  finish¬ 
ing,  243. 

Bath,  concrete  bird,  99;  pedes¬ 
tal,  101. 

Bazaar,  handicraft  for  the 
church,  46;  things  to  make, 
46 ;  working  materials,  47 ; 
whisk-broom  holder,  47 ; 
candle-sticks,  49 ;  thermom¬ 
eter  board,  51 ;  calendar- 
board  and  pen-rack,  54 ; 
post-card  rack,  55 ;  clock- 
shelf,  55;  broom-holder,  56; 
holder  for  safety  matches,  56. 


369 


270  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Bazaar  booths,  244;  fancywork 
booth,  245 ;  pergola  booth, 
246;  flower  booth,  246;  ice¬ 
cream  booth,  246 ;  old-well 
grab-booth,  248 ;  knock-down 
booths,  251 ;  handicraft  booth, 
252. 

Bed,  cork  toy,  30. 

Bench,  box,  15. 

Bench,  work-,  12;  bench-vise, 
15;  sliding-strip,  15;  bench- 
stop,  15. 

Bible  school,  toy  problems  for 
daily  vacations  (see  Toy 
Problems). 

Bird  bath,  concrete,  99;  form, 
100;  mixture,  100;  casting, 
100;  pedestal,  101;  footing, 
101;  base,  101;  form,  101; 
casting,  103;  basin,  104. 

Bird  house,  Red  Cross  wren,  89 ; 
another  wren,  94 ;  bluebird, 
96 ;  woodpecker,  96 ;  caps  for 
handicraft  bazaar  booth,  257. 

Birds  and  animals  for  Noah’s 
ark,  74 ;  working  material, 
74;  cutting,  74;  mounting, 
75;  coloring,  75. 

Blackboard,  155. 

Blackboards  and  an  easel,  224; 
wallboard  and  lath  black¬ 
board,  224 ;  combination 
blackboard  and  bulletin 
board,  228;  easel  for  black¬ 
boards  and  maps,  229. 

Bluebird  house,  96;  spires,  96; 
pipe  supports,  96. 

Bookcase  with  curtained  front, 
123 ;  material,  123 ;  cutting 
parts  and  assembling,  123 ; 
finishing,  124. 

Book-ends,  107;  finishing,  107. 


Bookrack,  Thomas  Bailey  Al¬ 
drich,  116;  material,  116; 
parts,  118;  assembling,  120; 
hangers,  121;  another  form 
of,  121;  material,  121;  cut¬ 
ting  parts,  121;  assembling, 
121. 

Book-troughs,  ends,  racks  and 
cases,  105;  book-trough,  105  ; 
book-ends,  107 ;  wall-rack, 
110;  rack  for  dodgers,  pro¬ 
grams,  or  mail,  111;  maga¬ 
zine-rack,  113 ;  Thomas 
Bailey  Aldrich  bookrack, 
116;  another  form  of  book- 
rack,  121 ;  bookcase  with  cur¬ 
tained  front,  123. 

Booster  tags,  attendance,  185; 
“I  Am  a  Booster,”  185;  “I 
Am  Early,”  185 ;  rain  checks, 
186. 

Booths  for  church  bazaars, 
244;  fancywork  booth,  245; 
pergola  booth,  246 ;  flower 
booth,  246 ;  ice-cream  booth, 
246 ;  old-well  grab-booth, 
248 ;  knock-down  booths, 
251 ;  handicraft  booth,  252. 

Broom-holder,  56. 

Bulletin  board,  indoor,  221 ; 
with  glass  front,  221;  inner 
frame,  222 ;  outer  frame, 
223 ;  assembling,  223. 

Bulletin  board  on  posts,  212; 
material,  213 ;  corner  posts, 
215;  rails  and  panel  boards, 
215 ;  assembling,  215 ;  can¬ 
opy,  216 ;  finishing,  217 ; 
erecting,  217. 

Bulletin  board,  portable,  218; 
cypress,  219;  parts,  220;  as¬ 
sembling,  220;  finishing,  220. 


INDEX 


271 


Bulletin  or  paper,  church  or 
Sunday  school,  191 ;  staff, 
192;  printers,  192;  machine 
type-setting,  192;  engraving, 
192;  specimens,  193. 

C 

Cabinet,  filing-,  126;  altering  a 
box  for,  127 ;  legs,  128 ;  top, 
128;  index  cards,  129;  finish¬ 
ing,  130. 

Cabinet,  pamphlet  and  picture, 
130 ;  construction  of,  133 ; 
assembling,  133;  front,  134; 
cabinet  doors,  135;  finishing, 

135. 

Calendar-board  and  pen-rack, 
54. 

Candle-sticks,  49. 

Casting  concrete  bird  baths, 
100,  103. 

Chair,  cork  toy,  30. 

Chair  hat-rack,  155. 

Chalk-rail,  blackboard,  155, 
227 ;  easel,  229. 

Check  numbers,  coat-rack,  238. 

Class,  for  the  Sunday  school, 
142;  class  table,  142;  pedes¬ 
tal,  146 ;  class  gavel,  148 ; 
class  screen,  149;  chair  hat- 
rack,  155. 

Clippings,  arranging,  136;  in¬ 
dexing,  139 ;  envelope  file  for, 
139. 

Clock-shelf,  55. 

Coat-and-hat-rack,  portable, 
233 ;  end  supports,  235 ; 
mortising  corner  posts,  236; 
horizontal  rails,  237;  hat- 
racks,  238;  hooks,  238;  cast¬ 
ers,  238 ;  check  numbers,  238 ; 
finish,  240. 


Coat-and-hat-rack,  wall,  230 ; 
construction  of,  232 ;  hat- 
bars,  233;  hanger  rod,  233; 
coat  hangers,  233;  finishing, 
233. 

Coat-room,  for  the,  230;  coat- 
and-hat-rack  for  a  wall,  230; 
portable  rack,  233 ;  whisk- 
broom  holder,  240 ;  shoe-pol¬ 
ishing  case,  240 ;  waste¬ 
basket,  241. 

Concrete  base  for  a  flag,  178; 
round,  178. 

Concrete  bird  bath,  99;  pedes¬ 
tal,  101 ;  mixture  for,  100 ; 
casting,  100,  103. 

Contests,  new  member,  194. 

Contribution  box,  a  small,  204; 
can  money  receptacle,  206 ; 
top  and  base  blocks,  206;  as¬ 
sembling,  208;  paint,  209;  a 
large  box,  209 ;  material,  209 ; 
parts,  209;  assembling  parts, 
211;  finish,  211. 

Coping-saw  problems,  seasick 
landlubber  toy,  32;  ouija 
bird,  38 ;  Tumble  Tom’s 
trick  ladder,  41;  topsy-turvy 
blocks,  41 ;  birds  and  ani¬ 
mals,  74. 

Cork  toys,  25;  corks  and  other 
working  materials,  26;  ani¬ 
mals,  27;  horse,  27;  funny 
porcupine,  28;  pig,  28;  pig- 
ricli  bird,  28 ;  duck,  29 ; 
teeter,  29 ;  furniture,  30 ;  bed, 
30;  chair,  30;  table,  31;  pots 
for  toy  plants,  32;  javelin, 
32. 

Covers,  scrapbook,  136, 


272  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


D 

Daily  vacation  Bible  school 
problems  (see  Toy  Prob¬ 
lems). 

Dial,  attendance,  200;  dial 
back,  201;  graduations,  201; 
large  hand,  201 ;  small  hand, 
202;  finishing,  202. 

Duck,  cork  toy,  29. 

E 

Easel  for  blackboard  and  maps, 
229 ;  support  and  clialk-rail, 
229;  finishing,  229. 

Envelope  scrap-file,  139. 


Fair,  handicraft  for  the  church 
(see  Bazaar). 

Fancywork  booth,  245. 

Filing-cabinet,  126;  altering  a 
box  for,  127 ;  legs,  128 ;  top, 
128 ;  index  cards,  129 ;  fin¬ 
ishing,  130. 

Filing-cabinet  for  pamphlets 
and  pictures,  130;  construc¬ 
tion,  133;  assembling,  133; 
front,  134 ;  cabinet  doors, 
135;  finishing,  135. 

Finishing  work,  22,  36,  48,  58, 


62, 

72,  75, 

79, 

82,  86, 

89, 

92, 

106,  107,  112,  116, 

124, 

130, 

135, 

146, 

147, 

148, 

155, 

156, 

164, 

173, 

176, 

196, 

202, 

204, 

209, 

211, 

217, 

220, 

223, 

226, 

227, 

229, 

233, 

240, 

241, 

243, 

251,  257,  262,  265. 
Fire-cracker  report  card,  188. 


Fire  effect  for  fireplace,  262; 
glowing  embers,  263;  flames, 
263. 

Fireplace  for  Santa  Claus,  258 ; 
mantel  framework,  259;  fire¬ 
place,  261 ;  hearth,  261 ; 
brickwork,  262;  realistic  fire 
effect,  262. 

Flower  booth,  246. 

Framing  pictures  for  the  school 
room,  157 ;  passe  partout  pic¬ 
tures,  157 ;  lath  picture- 
frame,  160 ;  ornate  frame, 
162. 

Furniture,  cork,  30. 

G 

Gavel,  class,  148 ;  finishing,  148. 

Grab-booth,  old  well,  248;  ma¬ 
terial,  249 ;  well-curb,  249 ; 
roof,  249;  windlass,  249;  old 
oaken  bucket,  251;  finishing, 
251. 

Grounds,  for  the  Church,  84; 
plant  box,  84;  hanging  plant 
box,  87 ;  pedestal  box,  87 ; 
trellis,  87 ;  Red  Cross  wren 
house,  89 ;  another  wren 
house,  94 ;  bluebird  house, 
96;  woodpecker  house,  96; 
concrete  bird  bath,  99;  ped¬ 
estal  bird  bath,  101. 

H 

Handicraft  for  the  church 
bazaar,  46;  things  to  make, 
46;  working  materials,  47; 
whisk-broom  holder,  47 ; 
candle-sticks,  49 ;  thermom¬ 
eter  board,  51 ;  calendar- 
board  and  pen-rack,  54; 


INDEX 


273 


post-card  rack,  55 ;  clock- 
shelf,  55;  broom-holder,  56; 
holder  for  safety  matches, 
56. 

Handicraft  knock-down  booth, 
252 ;  material,  253 ;  front  and 
rear  frames,  255 ;  lattice- 
work  panels,  255;  side 
frames,  256 ;  counters,  257 ; 
display  shelves,  257 ;  bird- 
house  caps,  257 ;  finishing, 
257. 

Hangers  for  tools,  19. 

Hanging  plant  box,  87. 

Hat-and-coat-rack,  portable, 
233;  end  support,  235;  mor¬ 
tising  corner  posts,  236; 
horizontal  rails,  237 ;  hat- 
racks,  238;  hooks,  238;  cast¬ 
ers,  238 ;  check  numbers,  238 ; 
finish,  240. 

Hat-and-coat-rack,  wall,  230 ; 
construction,  232 ;  hat-bars, 
233;  hanger  rod,  233;  coat 
hangers,  233;  finishing,  233. 

Hat-rack,  chair,  155. 

Horse,  cork  toy,  27. 

I 

Ice-cream  booth,  246. 

Index  cards,  filing-cabinet,  129. 

Indexing  scrapbook,  139. 

Introduction  tags,  185. 

Invitations  to  socials,  novel, 
188 ;  stocking  social,  189 ; 
backwards  social,  190. 

J 

Javelin,  cork  toy,  32. 


K 

Knock-down  booths,  251;  pipe 
frameworks  for,  251;  wooden 
frameworks  for,  252;  handi¬ 
craft  model  of,  252. 

L 

Ladder,  tumble  toy,  41. 

Lath  picture-frame,  160;  frame 
strips,  160 ;  frame  backing, 
161;  hangers,  161. 

M 

Magazine-rack,  113 ;  material, 
113;  parts,  114;  assembling, 
115;  finish,  116. 

Mantel  for  Santa  Claus  fire¬ 
place,  258 ;  fireplace,  261 ; 
hearth,  261;  brickwork,  262; 
realistic  fire  effect,  262. 

Member  contests,  new,  194. 

Member  reminders,  absent,  186 ; 
startling,  186 ;  fire-cracker  re¬ 
port  card,  188. 

Mite  box,  203 ;  marking  out 
the  parts,  203;  folding,  203. 

Model  making,  sand  table,  64; 
materials  for,  64;  care  of 
model  properties,  66. 

Model  of  your  church  building, 
76;  model  of  the  new  build¬ 
ing,  77 ;  model  of  the  old 
building,  78 ;  cardboard 
model,  78;  wooden  model, 
81 ;  clay  or  plaster  model,  82. 

Mortising,  236. 

Mountains  for  sand  table,  64. 

N 

Nail-box,  20. 


274  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


Noah’s  ark,  68;  material,  68; 
laying  out  and  cutting  the 
parts,  69;  assembling,  70; 
roof,  72;  mounting,  72;  fin¬ 
ishing,  72 ;  birds  and  animals, 
74;  working  material,  74; 
cutting,  74;  mounting,  75; 
coloring,  75. 

0 

Ouija  bird  pendulum  toy,  38. 

P 

Pamphlet  and  picture  cabinet, 
130;  construction,  133;  as¬ 
sembling,  133;  front,  134; 
cabinet  doors,  135;  finishing, 
135. 

Paper  or  bulletin,  church  or 
Sunday  school,  191 ;  staff, 
192;  printers,  192;  machine 
type-setting,  192;  engraving, 
192;  specimens,  193. 

Passe  partout  pictures,  157 ; 
parts,  157;  glass,  158;  mat, 
158  ;  assembling,  159;  hang¬ 
ers,  160;  picture  material, 
160. 

Pedestal,  146 ;  center  post, 
147 ;  top  and  base  boards, 
147;  finishing,  147. 

Pedestal  plant  box,  87. 

Pendulum  toys,  32 ;  seasick 
landlubber,  32;  ouija  bird, 
38. 

Pennants,  174. 

Pen-rack  and  calendar-boards, 
54. 

Pergola  booth,  246. 

Picture  framing,  157 ;  passe. 


partout  pictures,  157 ;  lath 
picture-frame,  160 ;  ornate 
frame,  162. 

Pig,  cork  toy,  28. 

Pigrich  bird,  cork  toy,  28. 

Plant  box,  84;  liner,  85;  drain¬ 
age,  86 ;  finishing,  86 ;  a 
hanging,  87 ;  a  pedestal,  87. 

Plaster  model  of  your  church 
building,  82. 

Porcupine,  cork  toy,  28. 

Post-card  rack,  55. 

Pots  for  toy  plants,  cork,  32. 

Printing  for  the  Church  and 
Sunday  school,  182;  what  to 
print,  183;  stock,  184;  intro¬ 
duction  tags,  185;  attendance 
booster  tags,  185 ;  absent 
member  reminders,  186 ; 
novel  invitations  to  socials, 
188 ;  church  or  Sunday 
school  paper  or  bulletin, 
191. 

R 

Rack  for  dodgers,  programs, 
or  mail,  111. 

Reminders,  absent  member, 
186 ;  startling,  186 ;  fire¬ 
cracker  report  card,  188. 

S 

Safety  match  holder,  56. 

Sand  table,  59;  sand  box,  60; 
sand  box  supports,  61 ;  paint¬ 
ing,  62;  materials  for  model 
making,  64;  sand,  64;  moun¬ 
tains,  64;  water,  64;  trees, 
65 ;  buildings,  65 ;  figures, 
66;  care  of  model  proper¬ 
ties,  66. 


INDEX 


275 


Santa  Claus  fireplace  and  a 
tree  base,  258;  fireplace  and 
mantel,  258;  realistic  fire  ef¬ 
fect,  262;  cross  standard  for 
a  Christmas  tree,  263;  box 
standard  for  the  tree,  265. 

Scrapbooks,  136 ;  home-made, 
136 ;  covers,  136 ;  leaves,  138 ; 
punching,  138;  lacing,  139; 
screw-posts,  139 ;  envelope 
scrap-file,  139. 

Screen,  class,  149 ;  material, 
151;  corner  posts,  152;  con¬ 
necting  pieces,  152;  panels, 
153;  chalk-rail,  155;  casters, 
155 ;  finishing,  155 ;  black¬ 
board,  155. 

Screw-posts  for  scrapbooks, 
139. 

Seasick  landlubber  pendulum 
toy,  32. 

Shelf,  clock-,  55. 

Shoe-polishing  case,  240;  box 
for,  240;  legs,  240;  top,  241; 
shoe-rest,  241 ;  compart¬ 
ments,  241;  finishing,  241. 

Slating  for  blackboards,  226. 

Socials,  novel  invitations  to, 
188 ;  stocking,  189 ;  back¬ 
wards,  190. 

Staff  for  banner  and  pennant, 
166;  a  small,  172;  finishing, 
173. 

Standard  for  Christmas  tree, 
cross,  263;  box,  265. 

Star  banner,  174;  base,  176; 
staff,  176;  star,  176;  laying 
out  a  star,  176;  mounting, 
176;  finishing,  176. 

Stock,  printing,  184. 

Stocking  social  invitation,  189. 

Stop,  bench-,  15. 


T 

Table,  class,  142;  box  compart¬ 
ment,  142 ;  drop-leaf,  143 ; 
legs,  143;  top,  145;  finishing, 
146. 

Table,  cork  toy,  31. 

Tags,  “Hello,  Friend!”;  intro¬ 
duction,  185 ;  “I  Am  a 
Booster,”  185 ;  “I  Am 
Early,”  185. 

Teeter,  cork  toy,  29. 

Thermometer,  an  attendance, 
196 ;  laying  out  the  board, 
196;  the  “mercury”  column, 
196;  bulb  for,  199;  hangers, 
199;  a  two-tube  contest,  199. 

Thermometer  board,  51. 

Thomas  Bailey  Aldrich  book- 
rack,  116. 

Tool  board,  18. 

Topsy-turvy  blocks,  41. 

Toys,  cork,  25;  pendulum,  32; 
tumble,  41. 

Trees  for  sand  table,  65. 

Tree  standard,  cross  Christmas, 
263;  box,  265. 

Trellis,  87. 

Trick  ladder  tumble  toy,  41. 

Trough,  book-,  105. 

Tumble  toys,  41 ;  Tumble  Tom’s 
trick  ladder,  41;  topsy-turvy 
blocks,  41. 

Y 

Vise,  bench-,  15. 

W 

Wallboard,  for  scrapbook 
covers,  136;  for  class  screen 


276  CHURCH  AND  SUNDAY  SCHOOL  HANDICRAFT 


panels,  157 ;  for  picture  mats, 
159;  for  picture  frame  back¬ 
ing1,  161;  for  attendance  dial, 
200 ;  for  bulletin  boards,  221 ; 
for  blackboards,  224,  228 ; 
for  waste-basket,  241 ;  for 
Santa  Claus  mantel,  fireplace 
and  hearth,  261. 

W allboard  and  lath  blackboard, 
224 ;  frame,  224 ;  slating, 
226 ;  chalk-rail,  227 ;  finish¬ 
ing,  227 ;  hangers,  227. 

Wall-rack,  110. 

Waste-basket,  241;  material, 
241;  assembling,  242;  finish¬ 
ing,  243. 

Water  for  sand  table,  64. 

Well  grab-booth,  248;  material, 
249 ;  well-curb,  249 ;  roof, 
249 ;  windlass,  249 ;  old  oaken 
bucket,  251;  finishing,  251 


Whisk-broom  holder,  47. 

Woodpecker  house,  96;  parts, 
98. 

Workbench,  12;  bench-vise,  15; 
sliding-strip,  15;  bench-stop, 
15;  box  bench,  15. 

Workshop,  the  church,  11;  a 
solid,  12 ;  bench-vise,  15 ;  slid¬ 
ing-strip,  15 ;  bench-stop,  15 ; 
box-bench,  15 ;  tool  board, 
18;  hangers,  19;  odd- job 
nail-box,  20. 

Wren  house,  Red  Cross,  89; 
cutting  the  parts,  89;  door¬ 
ways,  91 ;  assembling,  92 ; 
finishing,  92 ;  hangers,  94 ; 
another,  94 ;  parts,  94 ;  as¬ 
sembling,  94 ;  hanger,  95 ; 
caps  for  handicraft  bazaar 
booth,  257. 


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